Light and stiff crank for ~$300.
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 465
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Light and stiff crank for ~$300.
Can anyone recommend one? I've been looking at SRAM Force, SRAM Red and some FSA models but I'm not sure which one would be better (ie-stiffer, lighter, stronger, etc.) than another.
Also, is there any reason I should get shorter cranks than the current 175s that I'm using now? I feel like sometimes the longer cranks make my pedal strokes really choppy, especially when climbing. It feels like there's a lot of give or slip in my cadence at times.
Also, is there any reason I should get shorter cranks than the current 175s that I'm using now? I feel like sometimes the longer cranks make my pedal strokes really choppy, especially when climbing. It feels like there's a lot of give or slip in my cadence at times.
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 465
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 465
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
So, I'm looking at the SRAM Force, SRAM Red and a couple different FSA models. I've often heard that FSA isn't all that great, is this true? I want something that I can really feel my power going through my pedal stroke.
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Orange Park, FL
Posts: 1,341
Bikes: Ever changing..as of 2-24-09: 2003 Giant TCR Team Once, Sampson titanium, 1992 Paramount Series 3, 2003 Cervelo P3, 70s Raleigh Record fixed gear, 70s Fuji SL-12 commuter, mid 90s Klein MTB. Plus two or three frames lurking, plus 5 wife/kids rides
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I'd recommend the Shimano cranks, but not for any of the reasons you mention. I have had all sorts of cranks and the stiffness, weight, power transfer yada yada is mostly marketing BS. If they're not falling off, you couldn't tell the difference in a blind test.
What Shimano does have down, however, is the shifting. Their front rings are the best shifting ever, in my experience. I'm running DA rings on my BB30 Red crank right now, matter of fact...
One other thing, the Shimano end bolt plus two pinch bolt design seems to be less problematic than the single bolt design of FSA/SRAM.
What Shimano does have down, however, is the shifting. Their front rings are the best shifting ever, in my experience. I'm running DA rings on my BB30 Red crank right now, matter of fact...
One other thing, the Shimano end bolt plus two pinch bolt design seems to be less problematic than the single bolt design of FSA/SRAM.
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 465
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I'd recommend the Shimano cranks, but not for any of the reasons you mention. I have had all sorts of cranks and the stiffness, weight, power transfer yada yada is mostly marketing BS. If they're not falling off, you couldn't tell the difference in a blind test.
What Shimano does have down, however, is the shifting. Their front rings are the best shifting ever, in my experience. I'm running DA rings on my BB30 Red crank right now, matter of fact...
One other thing, the Shimano end bolt plus two pinch bolt design seems to be less problematic than the single bolt design of FSA/SRAM.
What Shimano does have down, however, is the shifting. Their front rings are the best shifting ever, in my experience. I'm running DA rings on my BB30 Red crank right now, matter of fact...
One other thing, the Shimano end bolt plus two pinch bolt design seems to be less problematic than the single bolt design of FSA/SRAM.
#9
Senior Member
inseam < 29 inches - 165 mm crank
inseam 29 - 32 inches - 170 mm crank
inseam 32 - 34 inches - 172.5 mm crank
inseam > 34 inches - 175 mm crank
I'd say if you're below 6' with normal proportions, the 175 might be long...but you've not stated your height, so can't be more help.
__________________
2014 Specialized Roubaix2003 Interloc Impala2007 ParkPre Image C6 (RIP)
2014 Specialized Roubaix2003 Interloc Impala2007 ParkPre Image C6 (RIP)
#10
Chases Dogs for Sport
Ultegra 6700 and its hollow big ring is a lot stiffer than the SRAM and FSA cranks. The Ultegra might be ugly (IMO), but it's the stiffest popular-brand crankset out there. And SRAM is designed to be compatible with it.
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 790
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I agree, the 6700 is ugly :-( Mine works great though. Was only $199 from Performance bike as well. I used coupon codes I googled. Not sure if they have any coupon codes right now, but $199 for a 6700 standard double is a pretty decent price, free shipping too.
#12
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 465
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
There are a bunch of different opinion out there on the optimal crank length...this one is based on inseam.
inseam < 29 inches - 165 mm crank
inseam 29 - 32 inches - 170 mm crank
inseam 32 - 34 inches - 172.5 mm crank
inseam > 34 inches - 175 mm crank
I'd say if you're below 6' with normal proportions, the 175 might be long...but you've not stated your height, so can't be more help.
inseam < 29 inches - 165 mm crank
inseam 29 - 32 inches - 170 mm crank
inseam 32 - 34 inches - 172.5 mm crank
inseam > 34 inches - 175 mm crank
I'd say if you're below 6' with normal proportions, the 175 might be long...but you've not stated your height, so can't be more help.
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 790
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I think you should probably stick with the size cranks you currently have. Kind of an expensive mistake to be made if you decide you don't like the switch...
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Santa Cruz Mountains
Posts: 6,169
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
For cycling you use cycling inseam, not pants inseam. Look it up to see how to measure it. Most would recommend a 175mm crank for your leg length but it's a personal choice. If you feel that shorter cranks work better, use them. But I don't think that shorter cranks will fix a poor pedal stroke.
You're not going to "feel power" through the crank. Stiffness in cranks and frames is a marketing tool. It doesn't make a difference in your actual speed on the bike.
You're not going to "feel power" through the crank. Stiffness in cranks and frames is a marketing tool. It doesn't make a difference in your actual speed on the bike.
#16
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 465
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Thanks for the replies. I realize cycling inseam is different from pants inseam, and I do need to look up what mine is. I also realize that marketing techniques play a huge role in the consumer world, I just want something that's better/stronger than what I have now. My current crankset, mainly the arms, feels very cheap and weak to me.
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Greensboro, NC
Posts: 445
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Can anyone recommend one? I've been looking at SRAM Force, SRAM Red and some FSA models but I'm not sure which one would be better (ie-stiffer, lighter, stronger, etc.) than another.
Also, is there any reason I should get shorter cranks than the current 175s that I'm using now? I feel like sometimes the longer cranks make my pedal strokes really choppy, especially when climbing. It feels like there's a lot of give or slip in my cadence at times.
Also, is there any reason I should get shorter cranks than the current 175s that I'm using now? I feel like sometimes the longer cranks make my pedal strokes really choppy, especially when climbing. It feels like there's a lot of give or slip in my cadence at times.
https://www.competitivecyclist.com/za....ID=&BRAND.ID=
#18
Chases Dogs for Sport
One of the funnier comments I've read recently. Granted, if you weigh in at 140 lbs. or find it difficult to generate peak power of 200 watts, that may be true. If you've ever experienced chainring flex or BB flex, you know that stiffness matters. (There's an aluminum Giant with FSA crankset in my past that was very flexible. Disconcerting on hard accelerations.)
Last edited by FlashBazbo; 10-20-10 at 08:37 AM.
#19
Chases Dogs for Sport
I agree on all counts. The 6700 crankset is so good that I have it on my Dura Ace Di2 bike.
#20
Lost
I would go with Force since competitive cyclist has it on clearance right now for $150. Can't beat that deal.
https://www.competitivecyclist.com/za....ID=&BRAND.ID=
https://www.competitivecyclist.com/za....ID=&BRAND.ID=
#21
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 465
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I would go with Force since competitive cyclist has it on clearance right now for $150. Can't beat that deal.
https://www.competitivecyclist.com/za....ID=&BRAND.ID=
https://www.competitivecyclist.com/za....ID=&BRAND.ID=
#22
Lost
#25
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Greensboro, NC
Posts: 445
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
CC also just sent me a 15% off code for everything. I'm thinking about getting this myself. Is there a big difference between rival and force?