Ask your small, random, track-related questions here
#601
Senior Member
Thanks for the help last week. I had a successful, fun first day out at the track!
I couldn't imagine riding the track in just toe clips, so I'm really glad I got clipless pedals. I did terrible in the little scratch races at the end but I will improve my lung capacity and my riding!
On to the question... I have my bike geared 46/14. I didn't feel like I couldn't get going, I felt more like I was unstable at higher RPM. I guess that'll come with practice, but everyone else out there left my legs looking like toothpicks and they looked to be turning really fast RPM. Should gear for higher rpm as a beginner?
I couldn't imagine riding the track in just toe clips, so I'm really glad I got clipless pedals. I did terrible in the little scratch races at the end but I will improve my lung capacity and my riding!
On to the question... I have my bike geared 46/14. I didn't feel like I couldn't get going, I felt more like I was unstable at higher RPM. I guess that'll come with practice, but everyone else out there left my legs looking like toothpicks and they looked to be turning really fast RPM. Should gear for higher rpm as a beginner?
__________________
Cat 2 Track, Cat 3 Road.
"If you’re new enough [to racing] that you would ask such question, then i would hazard a guess that if you just made up a workout that sounded hard to do, and did it, you’d probably get faster." --the tiniest sprinter
Cat 2 Track, Cat 3 Road.
"If you’re new enough [to racing] that you would ask such question, then i would hazard a guess that if you just made up a workout that sounded hard to do, and did it, you’d probably get faster." --the tiniest sprinter
#602
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What Brian said!
id even consider adding in a 16t
work on your spin during the warm-up
id even consider adding in a 16t
work on your spin during the warm-up
#603
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thanks guys!
I'm spinning out of control with questions. So I took my measurements, and checked out an online bike fit calculator and here are the results. I'm 6'2 and thought for sure I'd need a 58 or bigger. This is suggesting I can fit on smaller? My LBS carries Felt so I was looking at the geometry of those bikes... (They also happen to have last year's TK3 on sale but only in a 56)
Top Tube Length 53.9 - 54.3 Cm
Seat Tube Range CC 54.3 - 54.8 Cm
Seat Tube Range CT 56 - 56.5 Cm
Stem Length 11.2 - 11.8 Cm
BB Saddle Position 71.8 - 73.8 Cm
Saddle Handlebar 53 - 53.6 Cm
Saddle Setback 5.4 - 5.8 Cm
I'm spinning out of control with questions. So I took my measurements, and checked out an online bike fit calculator and here are the results. I'm 6'2 and thought for sure I'd need a 58 or bigger. This is suggesting I can fit on smaller? My LBS carries Felt so I was looking at the geometry of those bikes... (They also happen to have last year's TK3 on sale but only in a 56)
Top Tube Length 53.9 - 54.3 Cm
Seat Tube Range CC 54.3 - 54.8 Cm
Seat Tube Range CT 56 - 56.5 Cm
Stem Length 11.2 - 11.8 Cm
BB Saddle Position 71.8 - 73.8 Cm
Saddle Handlebar 53 - 53.6 Cm
Saddle Setback 5.4 - 5.8 Cm
#604
Senior Member
On the track, I think the fit of the bike is more critical than on the road. Not only do you have to have your body in the right position, but your balance has to be correct as well so you are stable through the corners and standing at high rpm. Is there a shop which specializes in track in your area? Your typical LBS knows boo about track cycling.
__________________
Cat 2 Track, Cat 3 Road.
"If you’re new enough [to racing] that you would ask such question, then i would hazard a guess that if you just made up a workout that sounded hard to do, and did it, you’d probably get faster." --the tiniest sprinter
Cat 2 Track, Cat 3 Road.
"If you’re new enough [to racing] that you would ask such question, then i would hazard a guess that if you just made up a workout that sounded hard to do, and did it, you’d probably get faster." --the tiniest sprinter
#605
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Most of my LBS specialize in beach cruisers, MTB, or "fixies"
The one that would be closest to track would be the shop with that Felt TK3...
The one that would be closest to track would be the shop with that Felt TK3...
#606
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It's hard to imagine someone 6'2" on a 54cm.. I'm 5'9" and ride a 58cm(TT)
#607
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+1. I'm 6'0" and have always ridden 55-56 top tube road bikes. And it wasn't until I started riding track that I realized I have probably always been a little cramped. My current track bike has a 57 top tube, but the saddle clamp is on a fore-aft rail, and I have it all the way back, making for an effective 58 (at least). I'll bet something was mis-entered in the calculator, because I'd guess most people your height are on a 60-ish top tube.
Last edited by VanceMac; 03-10-14 at 08:14 PM.
#609
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#610
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Fiveflat, Do you ride at Hellyer?
#611
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#612
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Which bike did you ride at Hellyer?
#613
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#614
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No. I do not do the beginner sessions any longer. IMO, the best track bike fit advice is available at the track from some of the track supervisors and coaches. Hellyer has a very nice fleet of rental bikes that include Felt and Look. I suggest renting a bike to see what fits you the best to get a general size. Once you complete 3 or 4 beginner sessions, you can do some of the other open sessions. I suggest you try Lee Povy's structured session. Lee is a great coach and fits bikes for a fee.
#615
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Steve Jones did the session last Saturday. I thought he did a good job, of course it was my first time.
#616
Senior Member
BTW, I'm a Hellyerite too.
#617
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#618
Senior Member
A vid of you on rollers would be even better.
#619
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Anybody have any experience with repairing cracks on an asphalt track? Or maybe you race on a track that's had some cracks repaired?
After this winter, we're developing some new cracks at Kissena. We had been using some kind of latex filler, I think, but it never really held up all that well. There's talk about trying to fill with those hot tar machines, but I'm not sure how well that'll work on the banking. Most of these hot tar setups seem to be "self leveling", which doesn't sound right for use on banking. Back in college I had read a report about the resurfacing of Penrose, which had a bunch of issues to overcome with the banking.
Much appreciated!
After this winter, we're developing some new cracks at Kissena. We had been using some kind of latex filler, I think, but it never really held up all that well. There's talk about trying to fill with those hot tar machines, but I'm not sure how well that'll work on the banking. Most of these hot tar setups seem to be "self leveling", which doesn't sound right for use on banking. Back in college I had read a report about the resurfacing of Penrose, which had a bunch of issues to overcome with the banking.
Much appreciated!
#620
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Anybody have any experience with repairing cracks on an asphalt track? Or maybe you race on a track that's had some cracks repaired?
After this winter, we're developing some new cracks at Kissena. We had been using some kind of latex filler, I think, but it never really held up all that well. There's talk about trying to fill with those hot tar machines, but I'm not sure how well that'll work on the banking. Most of these hot tar setups seem to be "self leveling", which doesn't sound right for use on banking. Back in college I had read a report about the resurfacing of Penrose, which had a bunch of issues to overcome with the banking.
Much appreciated!
After this winter, we're developing some new cracks at Kissena. We had been using some kind of latex filler, I think, but it never really held up all that well. There's talk about trying to fill with those hot tar machines, but I'm not sure how well that'll work on the banking. Most of these hot tar setups seem to be "self leveling", which doesn't sound right for use on banking. Back in college I had read a report about the resurfacing of Penrose, which had a bunch of issues to overcome with the banking.
Much appreciated!
Penose is still at Mr. Bumpyface status, but it has been given some temporary love. We bought a system from Kenosha. There is a fill concrete, and a top coat/ finishing concrete. The fill stuff has worked great for us, it holds well, through our really tough winter, the finish material is showing some cracks, and missing a few pieces. But the pieces that we spent more time on, and laid latter(with pracice) seemed to hold up much better. Its a long process, but working well. We have another work day planned soon.
#621
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This question about Keirin races has been on my mind. If NJS specification is design to reduce/remove equipment advantage, how has it changed over time? Surely if I ride a modern NJS approved bike, I have an unfair advantage compared to a racer from 10-20 yrs ago, right?
#622
aka mattio
NJS standards haven't changed meaningfully in that amount of time.
I dunno, maybe there is some tubing that's a little bit lighter or stiffer, but the basics are the same.
I dunno, maybe there is some tubing that's a little bit lighter or stiffer, but the basics are the same.
#623
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This question about Keirin races has been on my mind. If NJS specification is design to reduce/remove equipment advantage, how has it changed over time? Surely if I ride a modern NJS approved bike, I have an unfair advantage compared to a racer from 10-20 yrs ago, right?
EDIT:
Also, maybe Baby Puke will answer. He raced NJS races in Japan. Here's his blog: https://keirin-jotourist.blogspot.com/
Last edited by carleton; 03-11-14 at 05:51 PM.
#625
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I don't think you'd have any advantage in terms of creating speed or better aerodynamics. The only advantage I can see is maybe in the areas of safety (pads, helmets), durability (tires), nutrition (new studies, new supplements), or training (benefiting from new "best practices" and whatnot).
+1
EDIT:
Also, maybe Baby Puke will answer. He raced NJS races in Japan. Here's his blog: Keirin-jo Tourist
+1
EDIT:
Also, maybe Baby Puke will answer. He raced NJS races in Japan. Here's his blog: Keirin-jo Tourist