Clicking/ticking ULTEGRA 6800 in the middle sprockets only
#26
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Have you played with the barrel adjuster? Rotate counter-clockwise to tighten the rear derailleur cable a quarter turn at a time until you hear the chain make noise by trying to jump to the next gear, then back off. That fixed the remaining gears for me...
Also, if you had no noise at one point, then the hub should be fine, no?
Also, if you had no noise at one point, then the hub should be fine, no?
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I have the exact same issue as the OP and have narrowed it down to the chain falling in "late" one just ONE tooth of my 16T ring. It's predictable and the only way to get rid of it is to index the barrel adjuster (tighten) but I have the same problem where that adjustment affects shifting in the other cogs.
I am going to inspect a bit more carefully and possibly use a Dremel. I thought a skinnier chain might resolve the issue because it's the contact of the outer plate being a bit too tight and falling in late, but most chains are the same width so there goes that idea.
I will repost if using the Dremel fixes it.
I am going to inspect a bit more carefully and possibly use a Dremel. I thought a skinnier chain might resolve the issue because it's the contact of the outer plate being a bit too tight and falling in late, but most chains are the same width so there goes that idea.
I will repost if using the Dremel fixes it.
#28
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#29
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So the shop installed a different wheel and the rattle went away... doesn't that identify where the issues lies. I understand that seems far fetched, but the new wheel fixed it, not the hanger or the barrel adjuster or a burr.
So can you swap rear wheels? I'm guessing that there is some play in the freehub. I can't say why it only happens in the center cogs. Perhaps the chain angle on the high/low cogs are putting enough lateral force so the freehub doesn't move in and out ever so slightly. This is conjecture, but the not having any rattle with a different wheel is fact.
John
So can you swap rear wheels? I'm guessing that there is some play in the freehub. I can't say why it only happens in the center cogs. Perhaps the chain angle on the high/low cogs are putting enough lateral force so the freehub doesn't move in and out ever so slightly. This is conjecture, but the not having any rattle with a different wheel is fact.
John
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Hi all,
I just joined this forum as I have the exact same problem. I've put about 1000km on my new Argon 18 with Ultregra R8000 and the drive system is really noisy in about the 3 middle cogs. Shifts are smooth on all of them. It's just really noisy for a bike this price. I have an 1985 Bianchi with Campagnolo NR and it still does not make as much noise as this bike.
Will bring it back to the shop for another look.
Cheers,
Michel
I just joined this forum as I have the exact same problem. I've put about 1000km on my new Argon 18 with Ultregra R8000 and the drive system is really noisy in about the 3 middle cogs. Shifts are smooth on all of them. It's just really noisy for a bike this price. I have an 1985 Bianchi with Campagnolo NR and it still does not make as much noise as this bike.
Will bring it back to the shop for another look.
Cheers,
Michel
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I'm finding I wear out the three cogs I use most for climbing very quickly. I just put on a new Ultegra 11-speed cassette (and chain) and the silence is a true relief. I have a SRAM cassette on another wheel-set, and it seems to be lasting longer.
I've saved the old cassette and am cleaning it up to see if I can visually detect what is wrong with it.
I've saved the old cassette and am cleaning it up to see if I can visually detect what is wrong with it.
#32
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I have the exact same issue as the OP and have narrowed it down to the chain falling in "late" one just ONE tooth of my 16T ring. It's predictable and the only way to get rid of it is to index the barrel adjuster (tighten) but I have the same problem where that adjustment affects shifting in the other cogs.
I am going to inspect a bit more carefully and possibly use a Dremel. I thought a skinnier chain might resolve the issue because it's the contact of the outer plate being a bit too tight and falling in late, but most chains are the same width so there goes that idea.
I will repost if using the Dremel fixes it.
I am going to inspect a bit more carefully and possibly use a Dremel. I thought a skinnier chain might resolve the issue because it's the contact of the outer plate being a bit too tight and falling in late, but most chains are the same width so there goes that idea.
I will repost if using the Dremel fixes it.
tinyurl.com/16t1132
when chain is on 16T, on every rotation there is single tooth on the next cog (14t) that picks up chain on lower part of cassette (6 o'clock) and after short rotation (7-8 o'clock) chain is jumping back to 16T cog with a click
Clicking tooth on 16T ("!") and picky tooth on 14t ("arrow") (image link):
imgur.com/a/XhVxT9E
If you look at shimano pdfs you can find that 16t (Y1Y916100) and 18t (Y1Y918200) are specific for 11-32t,
but 14t (Y1Y914000) is the same for 11-25 (13-14-15), 11-28 (13-14-15), 11-30(13-14-15), 11-32 (13-14-16).
possible solutions are:
1) to use dremel on one tooth of 14t (Y1Y914000) to make it more compatible with 16t (11-32t)
2) to use Campagnolo 11s chain that is 5.50mm (Shimano and Sram 11s chains are 5.62mm)
3) to use 2.35mm 10s spacer (Y1Z805000) instead of 2.18mm 11s spacer (Y1VT07000) between 14T-16T
(sorry, I have to use text links instead of active links, that is forum limitation for users with low post count)
Last edited by kek; 05-01-19 at 11:01 AM.
#33
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I have the exact problem. I noticed the problem goes away when I lube the chain. But after 2 rides, it comes back and I deal with it until I lube it again. I'm not exactly sure it's worth chasing after anymore for me. I was thinking of trying to tighten the cassette a little more. Maybe my torque wrench is off.
Also notice that when you hear the noise, and switch back to the smaller chain ring, the noise goes away.
Also notice that when you hear the noise, and switch back to the smaller chain ring, the noise goes away.
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I thought I had the sameproblem.. the noise was coming once each revolution of the pedals - Turning the bike upside down I founf that the front deraillier cage was touching the crank on that side producing the noise. Applying gentle pressure to the cage by hand solved the problem,