PdalPowr

This is mostly for my own knowledge as when I learn to properly adjust the rear deraileur my problem may disappear. My bike was down for a year. Unfortunately I didn't do much in the way of leg exercise during that time. That having been said I find it incredibly hard to pedal even in the easiest gears. I did just replace the rear deraileur. It is not well adjusted as there is a lot of clicking and once in a while while pedalling the chain feels like its trying to jump.The question is,would that make it so much harder to pedal?

P.S.

It feels great to be on two wheels again.
If I figure this out soon I could take a good pedal into the countryside.😉

CliffordK

Make sure at least the High/Low stops are set correctly on the derailleur so that you can't physically toss the chain off into the spokes, or move the rear derailleur into the spokes.

As far as making it harder to pedal, are you sure you're getting into all the gears?

The easiest gear, of course, is small front, large rear.

Out of adjustment could cause some premature wear, but shouldn't be a major issue for friction.

Poor fitness after the time off?

Andrew R Stewart 

First thing I think of is to check the pulleys. Forgetting to install that little sleeve can cause a lot of chain drag. Next is the chain it's self. Old lube can gummy up and get sticky. Of course air pressure needs checking. Then the brakes rubbing. The list goes on. Andy

Miele Man

Is the chain threaded through the derailleur properly?

Cheers

WizardOfBoz

PdalPower. If everything is routed correctly, you might get a little drag but it should not be a huge drag. Here's some tips

0) Push yourself forward on the bike and see how far you glide. Should be a good long way on level ground. If not, check those wheel bearings and brakes. Brakes rubbing or too tightly adjusted will cause hard pedaling.
1) Perhaps its obvious, but make sure that the chain is routed properly. Don't ask me (7 years bike mechanic, 10 years machine shop experience, BS. 2 MS and PhD degrees in Engineering) how I know this but your chain won't run smoothly if you've routed around a standoff on the derailleur jockey cage... Especially don't ask me how long it took to realize that idiocy. Ahem. Point is, make sure that the chain touches nothing but the chainwheels in fron and the cogs in back, and the jockey wheels on the derailleur.
2) Did you use new cables when you installed the derailleur? The cables should probably have been greased unless you have really fancy kit like Shimano's PTFE covered cables.
3) If the chain is routed correctly, adjust limit screws. Make especially sure that the low gear limit screw (that keeps your chain from going off the large cog in back into the spokes) is adjusted properly.
4) Both low gear and high gear limit screws are important. The high gear (small cog) limit in back can be best be set with the cable disconnected (loosen the cable stop bolt).
5) With proper routing and limit screw settings, adjust your shifting mechanism so that the cable is all the way extended (pull on the cable through the derailleur using a pliers and click on the right hand shifter to let the cable out).
6) Tension the cable through the derailleur by grabbing near the cable end (don't grab the end: that can cause the cable to fray) and tighten the cable stop bolt.

Andrew suggested making sure that the chain is not stiff and is lubed (and if you swapped chains, it should be the correct type of chain).

See how that rides and shifts. Shouldn't click at all.

HillRider

+1 . The noise plus drag makes the chances the chain is mis-routed pretty good.

Wilfred Laurier

When I first built my touring bike ~8 years ago, I misrouted the chain through the rear derailleur, and I don't recall how far I rode before I closely inspected and realized the chain was dragging over a steel tab of the derailleur cage.

There was added drag, but not as bad as OP is describing.

PdalPowr

Thanks folks lots to consider there.
Yes I think the long layover hurt a lot.
But this is so profound. There is no possibility of shifting through the gears.
I would actually hurt my kness if not in the easiest gear.
I watched a couple of G.C.N. videos. They make it look easy.
But as suggested the limit screws come first.
Its peeing out. If the bike was running reasonably well
that wouldn't stop me. But going slowly and getting peed on is no fun.🤗
Update to come.

Wilfred Laurier

It can be very frustrating, even demoralizing, getting back on your bike after an extended break.

Also, is there any possibility that your saddle height is wrong? A too-low saddle can limit me to about 60% of my power output. I feel like carp when that happens. Not quite as dramatic, but underinflated tires can really slow you down, too.

My only other suggestion is maybe borrow someone else's bike to try. If you feel the same weakness then the problem is not in the drivetrain, but in the 'motor'. The solution is to ride more and try to build your strength and endurance back up.

WizardOfBoz

Wilfred, thanks for relating this. Thought I was the only one.

OP, make sure that your seat height is properly adjusted. You lose an insane amount of efficiency for every inch that its too low.

Wilfred Laurier

This happened about two years after leaving my 16 year career as a bike mechanic.

PdalPowr

Thanks for the great input.
No-one around here has an X large bike for me to try.
Though there is a beater Raleigh I have been looking at.
It needs a seat but would be a ride while repairing my main ride.
Yes it is a little easier to pedal now.
My saddle is nice and high and always has been.
What I think is at least a side issue is my barrel adjuster may be broken.
But I am up and at it. 😀