daveed

So it now looks as though I tightened down my headset too aggressively after cutting my fork and then rode the bike for several miles, resulting in the serious nicks you see (at the top portion) in this photo of the bottom bearing race on the head tube. Try as others kindly suggested (in an earlier post) to gently tighten down the stem, etc., the harm had already been done -- only I didn't know it until I finally put a flashlight on the race this evening. In short, the steering still doesn't perform properly (I list involuntarily from side to side.)



In any case, since the Cane Creek S2 (1 1/8") is no longer available, can anyone recommend a comparable product -- if indeed I need a new headset --for my daily rider?

HillRider

The "S2" series has been replaced by the 40-series or the lower cost 10-series in Cane Creeks product line. Since this is a press-in cup headset, the 40-series or 10-series equivalent will be a direct substitute.

mmmdonuts

Is this the bottom cup of an S2 cartridge headset? If so you haven't nicked the bearing race, that is inside the cartridge itself. Those nicks shouldn't affect performance. Assuming the cups are in straight and the bearings are in good shape all you need to do is work on getting the headset preload right. Tight enough that it doesn't rock, loose enough that it doesn't bind.

Andrew R Stewart 

daveed- It sounds like your steering is not smoothly able to rotate ("I list involuntarily from side to side"). It this the case? Generally this comes from small dents in the rolling track of the cups and cones which allow the balls to try to settle into. This makes the steering seem notchy and not easily corrected with small body/balance "english". This is not usually associated with nicks in the ball tracks, but nicks could do this. Over tightening a headset usually doesn't nick the tracks but indents them.

Either way the solution is likely the same. Replacement of the damaged parts (headset). Sometimes one can change the number of balls in the bearing element so that the balls don't ALL fall into the dents. But this is usually considered a make do and not a best choice.

HillRider

The CC S2 is a sealed cartridge bearing headset. There is no way to fiddle with the ball count or placement. The cup damage may keep the cartridge from seating evenly and that's the problem.

Andrew R Stewart 

Then sand down the seats for the cartridges so they sit flat (as only the raised part of the nick is in play) or there is damage inside the cartridges (that can't be seen but is felt). Andy.

daveed

This is correct. The bearings are sealed. And yes, it is the cup that is nicked (oops). The sealed bearing looks fine to me. mmmmdonuts: I'm not bike mechanic but try as I might to get the pre-load right, I simply cannot get rid of the aforementioned listing. I appreciate Hillrider's headset recommendation.

mmmdonuts

The thing is I doubt you created those nicks unless you installed the cups by hammering them into the headtube. The nicks were probably there before and you didn't notice. If your bike was tracking well before you cut the steer tube then the difference is more likely to be the HS preload. If the preload was so tight to distort the cups you would have noticed as soon as you jumped on the bike.

hueyhoolihan

that looks like a loose ball or caged cup to me, i admit that i could easily be wrong about that, if so, and the OP's trying to put a cartridge bearing in there, well...

and how in god's name could those nicks get in there without someone taking a chisel and hammer to it? not that i am pointing a finger. really.

in the end, it may well be, as previously stated, that someone just pounded the cup in with a hammer and screwdriver and now the bearings won't seat properly. but if that were the case, it's unlikely the steering ever worked properly afterward.

daveed

Indeed I did notice. But because it had been several years since I'd installed a headset I wrote the problem off to a too-tight brake cable guide below he remaining spacers and continued on my 7-mile journey home. Anyway, though you can't see it in the photo I provided, there is a small flattening of the cup rim that made removing the sealed bearing difficult. In fact, I had to pry it from the cup with a small flat screwdriver. It's just a guess, but I bet that cup damage occurred on that initial ride home.

daveed

Huey: see my response to mmmmdonuts. I now realize I all but ignored properly preloading the headset. I've since ordered a new one.

reddog3

It is a cartridge bearing headset for a threadless steerer (Cane Creek S-2).

OP- Not sure why you felt the need to remove the bearings, particularly if it worked well before you cut the steerer on a new fork install. Pull the stem (and compression ring) and the fork falls out. Most likely the bearings do as well. The damage to the seats were likely there before hand. Hard to tell though from the pic if there's enough damage to allow the bearings to seat.

"Do I need a new headset?" I doubt it but we're not there to see the parts. Are you in Boise?