Detachable Chainrings?
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Detachable Chainrings?
Right, so I'm bored this summer, and from my 7 bikes, I have quite a few parts leftover. My plan is to take my old Trek 4300 frame and turn it into a commuter/town bike. I'm thinking singlespeed at the momemt, or at least only one ring up front. I have a set of like crappy Alivio cranks but it seems the rings are machined together or something. Is it possible to separate these rings ? If not, is there a tool other than a hand file for which I could file down the outer ring and turn it into a bashguard of some sort?
Also, I kinda wanted just one brake (for simplicity and weight). it will be a v brake, but should it be front or rear? My gut says front as it would be more powerful, but what do you guys think?
One last thing, If I use one chainring up front, and say a 7 speed freewheel in the back, will my chain really wear down quickly or should I be okay, assuming I don't shift often to the high and low cogs?
Sorry if there are some typos,
Byron
Also, I kinda wanted just one brake (for simplicity and weight). it will be a v brake, but should it be front or rear? My gut says front as it would be more powerful, but what do you guys think?
One last thing, If I use one chainring up front, and say a 7 speed freewheel in the back, will my chain really wear down quickly or should I be okay, assuming I don't shift often to the high and low cogs?
Sorry if there are some typos,
Byron
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I see no advantage whatsoever to removing either chainirng. Take off the front derailleur and shifter, if you must, then use the inner chainring, with the outer as a guard and potential downhill gear. You can always stop and manually rethread the chain onto the other chainring, as plenty of cyclists did in the old days.
Likewise, I strongly believe it is absolute folly to remove either brake, particularly for a commuting bike to be ridden in traffic. If you must have only one brake, make it the front, but reconsider your idea. On dry roads, I generally use the front brake almost exclusively, but I prefer to use the rear for gradual slowing on long descents, to avoid overheating the front rim, tyre, or brake pads. On wet roads, I find that I need to use both brakes together to avoid skidding; a front wheel skid is nasty business!
Likewise, I strongly believe it is absolute folly to remove either brake, particularly for a commuting bike to be ridden in traffic. If you must have only one brake, make it the front, but reconsider your idea. On dry roads, I generally use the front brake almost exclusively, but I prefer to use the rear for gradual slowing on long descents, to avoid overheating the front rim, tyre, or brake pads. On wet roads, I find that I need to use both brakes together to avoid skidding; a front wheel skid is nasty business!
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Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
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Thanks for the advice, I may do the front and rear brakes as it would be nice for the modulation. As for leaving the outer ring on, I may consider your idea, I just didn't like having my pants cut up.
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You can dremel (sp?) the teeth off the outer ring. I ran a 7 speed with one ring in the front and found the chainring wore out really fast and the chain begin to slip. As a broke student I flipped it and used a hammer to flatten the teeth back. As for brakes, I have both on my geared and fixed bike. I like the idea of having the back brake in an emergency situation.
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I would not if you are referring to a double reduction to single.
Your chainline will be off.
A triple with a chainring middle, bashguard outer.
A dremel would take WAY too many bits\long- grinder.
The problem with 3\1 mid IS you can usually only get say 39-40 teeth ring mounted as the mid ring sits close to the frame.
A 7 cluster- to mid chainring runs fine.
oooops..I'm a mtb'er. Don't know if this will help.
Photo: Mid mounted 39 t ring on triple spyder\ hand ground 46 t ring bashguard.
Also- No ramped rings for single front.
>jef.
Your chainline will be off.
A triple with a chainring middle, bashguard outer.
A dremel would take WAY too many bits\long- grinder.
The problem with 3\1 mid IS you can usually only get say 39-40 teeth ring mounted as the mid ring sits close to the frame.
A 7 cluster- to mid chainring runs fine.
oooops..I'm a mtb'er. Don't know if this will help.
Photo: Mid mounted 39 t ring on triple spyder\ hand ground 46 t ring bashguard.
Also- No ramped rings for single front.
>jef.
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If the problem is simply that you're cutting up your pant cuffs, have you considered just mounting a cheap plastic chainring guard for commuting?
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I made my big ring into a chain guard by snapping off the teeth. I just adjusted a Crescent wrench to grab them then bent them off one at a time. Then I cleaned it up with a file. It really took very little time.
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Originally Posted by SchreiberBike
I made my big ring into a chain guard by snapping off the teeth. I just adjusted a Crescent wrench to grab them then bent them off one at a time. Then I cleaned it up with a file. It really took very little time.