KiwiMtnClmbr 

https://m.facebook.com/marketplace/item/516579355706424/

So I'm going to look at this in a few hours with no real prior knowledge of how to value a used classic. I've been on the hunt for a lugged steel frame that I can commute on in the next 3 months and then build into a long-distance setup to hopefully get into randonneuring. Storage would be inside both at home and work, but commute riding may well be in adverse weather in the short term.

The DC market is more than a little inflated, but that's where I'm stuck for the next 60-180 days on evacuation from my overseas posting. So it is what it is.

Presuming fit works out, this would be a lifer purchase.

So what is reasonable $? My total buy intention had been $350-400 with new consummables but I realize the 720 is a bit of a grail find and am willing to stretch my total cost a bit.

KiwiMtnClmbr 

bikemig 

$380 is on the high side given the condition of the frame. The parts look clean though and good quality so that helps. I'd offer $300 for this bike given the condition for the frame. Plus now is not a great time to be selling bikes.

bikeaddiction1

Here, that price would be near the top in Canadian dollars for a very clean bike, but that is US dollars. Although the bike looks to be in okay condition, when it is allowed to rust you wonder what else could be wrong. For example, I notice in the picture of the BB that there is rust along the left side BB lock ring which indicates the BB has not been serviced in a while.

That being said, it is a nice bike and if you like it, and it fits, and you can clean up the bike yourself, make an offer of what it is worth to you. Worst case you get turned down.

Phil_gretz

I'm in the DC market and will comment that this seller is fairly active, with frequent listings of both complete bikes and parts. From the photos, I'd question whether he took the time to open up and re-grease the bottom bracket. That might be a bargaining point. For top dollar, I'd expect full servicing from others, and deliver the same myself. PG

bikemig 

The parts aren't beat, the frame is. The seller may have used parts he had in hand to fix the frame up. I said $300 earlier but honestly I think that's high given the condition of the bike. There's no reason to buy this bike unless it's a deal and it's not a deal even at $300.

KiwiMtnClmbr 

Thank you heaps for the in-depth analysis. Truly cannot afford to waste any $ right now at all.

So FMV really is $225-250 then eh? My initial guess was spot on.

KiwiMtnClmbr 

Seller is willing to take $250. I honestly don't know still if this is a bad idea. It shifted well but it seems very cobbled together: the racks are mounted poorly, the rear wheel was crookedly set in the dropouts, the front brake line goes over the bars and into the reflector housing, the box wheels feel a bit soft but hard to tell with the junk rubber wrapped around them. What are the parts on this worth if I was to strip it and build more or less from zero? As in, how much could I recoup to spend on better stuff?

wrk101

Crankset, bar end shifters, and racks combined are about $200. If he is an active seller (which it sounds like), ask him to swap in some better wheels. Crap tires are typical flipper choice as buyers will usually NOT pay more for good tires. You could even offer to let him keep the tires and knock $20 off the price. Really goof ball routing on front brake, easy enough to fix. Overall, parts look pretty decent to me. I wouldn't be in a rush to change them all. Yes, it does look like a bit of parts bin build.

A guy who owns that nice bike stand surely knows better on that brake cable routing. Bottom bracket appears untouched to me too. Expect to need to do a service on it. If it had been serviced recently, you should see some remnants of grease around the spindle.

nesteel 

At $250, its a buy for me. You get one of the best '80's touring frames made, and you don't have to worry about scratching it.
Parts are mix, but you're going to make changes to suit your tastes anyway, so is it really a bad thing?
I'd pull it apart and go through all the bearings, and replace all consumables. If you're keeping this and not flipping, you'll be fine with the investment.
Those brakes on that frame will be able to take a 700c wheel if you decide to go that route in the future.
This if one of those framesets that people undervalue when they're looking to buy, and overvalue when they're looking to sell. At $250 this one appears to be priced correctly. There looks to be no structural issues with it.

KiwiMtnClmbr 

I talked myself into it for the same reasons overnight when the babies kept me from sleeping. Even messaged seller at 0200. Fast forward to a few min ago, and he's taken the listing down and decided to hold onto it. I'm bummed, but truth is I don't have time or space for a teardown right now. I'm living in a hotel with a 3.5 yr old, 1.5 yr old and a 'pending' in 5 weeks. You could say we've been busy and are about to be even busier. So maybe this wasn't really a loss. That said, if it held together, I could have also rode it for the next few months and then put it into storage until I'm back in the States. Spilt milk as they say.

Phil_gretz

This is a case where better is the enemy of good enough. The stock non-aero DiaCompe levers would give the correct arch to go into the cantilever stop at the front reflector mount. The aero levers don't fit on that bike. Kind of a rookie mistake, IMO.

bikemig 

That's not cool that the seller didn't honor his price. But it sounds like he may have inadvertently done you a favor.

wrk101

Projects are best suited for someone with the time/tools/aptitude/workshop space to do them. Otherwise, they are not a blessing. Best you "missed out" on this deal. If I were you, I'd research co ops in your area and pick up a bike that has been refurbished. You want a bike to RIDE not to work on!

zachleft

I wouldn't be too upset about missing this. The price seemed a bit high

KiwiMtnClmbr 

Yup, moving on.

Bmoreblujay

Have you tried removing the rust or does it remove the paint with it?

rocks in head 

Maybe borrow a bike from a member for a few months while you're here? Then you won't have to worry about storage and moving after deployment. I've "rented" a bike out to someone for a summer for basically deposit and tire wear. What size frame do you ride? That one looks... 52?

KiwiMtnClmbr 

I'm closer to a 54 - my best fit is a 550mm top tube '11 Kona Jake. I'm actually proud of myself for not buying that 720 on the spot bc it may have proved a bit small in the long run.

This is a novel idea and would be a cool way to try out a new frame. Also, it'd be pretty generous of someone, which would be unusual in life these days (especially mine).

I do have the option on a slightly upgraded aluminum frame Raleigh Revenio 1.0 for $150/175 locally. Not exactly what I was thinking of but I'm coming around to the idea - it seems it would/could serve as well or better than old steel for training up to and starting out on brevets.

Picking out a bike essentially online while quarantined has been a strange experience. Normally I'd do a lot more testing of stuff, hanging around at a co-op or going to an endurance event or two and getting a feel for what a good entry-level choice would be. I've also been strongly influenced to look at the Cannondale ST/T series as I've been told I might not really like how flexy full steel is even in a medium frame. Those seem to have the best of both worlds and I'm old enough not to care if they're ugly ;-).

Really though, I just need to get riding. I got a trainer from a friend, and my hotel patio is big enough to use it on in nice weather if I can't get enough time away from the kids to go pound some miles. And I'm going crazy cooped up.

Ok, enough interwebs therapy for one night...

Cycle Tourist

My big tube aluminum touring bike cost me $100 from a bike shop that got stuck with a tune up repair bill from a guy that skipped. Not only did I get lucky, I can say with certainty, big tires give you a soft ride with the rock solid stability of aluminum. That being said I think on a medium frame, steel isn't too flexible especially on the second tier double butted models. Don't be afraid of well made straight gauge entry level touring bikes. You can use em "as is" just fine and upgrade them later for loaded touring. Just make sure the chain stays are a bit long for heel clearance.

Got this Miyata 610 for $200 today.