Rust on a steel frame
08-17-05, 08:45 AM
#1
One knee is enough
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: East Central Illinois
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Bikes: 1978 Fuji - now fixed and pegged. 1980s Cannondale Touring - pegged with 18 speeds. 2001 Cannondale CADD 3 - not being ridden
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I’ve been winter riding for years, mostly on road in Illinois. I kept the bike relatively clean, but certainly didn’t wipe it down after every ride. I kept expecting that it would rust out and break on me one day. I’ve recently quit riding (see Thread) and I’m getting rid of most of my bikes.
This steel Fuji S12S, which I bought new in 1979, had rust on it just about everywhere. Around the bottom bracket it was especially bad. I’ve been expecting it to crack any time.
As I didn’t want to sell or give away this damaged frame I decided to autopsy it with a hack saw. I found that there was no significant rust anywhere on the inside of the tubes. The rust was only on the surface. Even the chainstays, just behind the bottom bracket, had nice shiny steel after they were cut. As ugly as the bike was, it could have provided years more of service to someone.
Based on a sample size of one, my conclusion is that steel is a fine material for winter biking and that even pretty ugly bikes can maintain their structural strength.
Thanks,
This steel Fuji S12S, which I bought new in 1979, had rust on it just about everywhere. Around the bottom bracket it was especially bad. I’ve been expecting it to crack any time.
As I didn’t want to sell or give away this damaged frame I decided to autopsy it with a hack saw. I found that there was no significant rust anywhere on the inside of the tubes. The rust was only on the surface. Even the chainstays, just behind the bottom bracket, had nice shiny steel after they were cut. As ugly as the bike was, it could have provided years more of service to someone.
Based on a sample size of one, my conclusion is that steel is a fine material for winter biking and that even pretty ugly bikes can maintain their structural strength.
Thanks,
08-19-05, 01:44 PM
#2
Two H's!!! TWO!!!!!
That's encouraging all right! I intend to use a steel-framed bike for my winter commute this coming winter and I've been wondering whether it's going to even last me through the season (they put lots of salt on the road here). This post gives me hope. 
(Sorry to read about your knees and quitting riding. Keep looking for your second love and I'm sure you'll find something! I knew people who recovered from knee surgeries and continued to ride, even if more carefully and gently, but I guess this doesn't work for everyone...)
(Sorry to read about your knees and quitting riding. Keep looking for your second love and I'm sure you'll find something! I knew people who recovered from knee surgeries and continued to ride, even if more carefully and gently, but I guess this doesn't work for everyone...)
08-19-05, 02:14 PM
#3
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You were relatively lucky. Water pooling in the frame tubes is not that uncommon. Many high end steel frames had cut outs in the BB shell to allow water to drain out. Yes, water can splash in that way, but at least it doesn't pool and sit for long periods of time.
If you're really concerned about internal rust, treat the frame with J.P. Wiegle Frame Saver or linseed oil. Just give it adequate time to drain after treatment. Also, a flex honing of the seat tube prior to treatment removes rust in one of the most offending areas.
If you're really concerned about internal rust, treat the frame with J.P. Wiegle Frame Saver or linseed oil. Just give it adequate time to drain after treatment. Also, a flex honing of the seat tube prior to treatment removes rust in one of the most offending areas.
08-19-05, 08:05 PM
#4
Prefers Cicero
Originally Posted by chephy
That's encouraging all right! I intend to use a steel-framed bike for my winter commute this coming winter and I've been wondering whether it's going to even last me through the season (they put lots of salt on the road here). This post gives me hope.
Robert
09-01-05, 11:54 PM
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I consider rust to be my strongest "anti theft" device, but if it bothers you, I have found a little navel jelly and very fine steel wool cleans it right up.
Of course, you can always just spray some rustoleum paint on and that's supposed to seal the rust and keep it from rusting further.
Of course, you can always just spray some rustoleum paint on and that's supposed to seal the rust and keep it from rusting further.
09-04-05, 10:23 PM
#6
Beauty in Utility
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if your steel frame does have cutouts or any other means for accessing the inside of the tubes, see if you can't find some Waxoyl or similar sealant.
We british car owners are very affluent in the ways of rust. Waxoyl is hard to come by on this side of the ocean, but...
Here is a recipe for home made "Waxoyl". It's an old fashioned rust treatment / undercoating:
2 1/2 quarts turpentine
12 oz. beeswax / candle wax
1 quart light machine oil
With a cheese shredder, cut the wax into the turpentine, stir until the wax has dissolved, (takes a long time; you can use very low heat (a warm room) to aid but be careful) and thin with the machine oil to a brushable / sprayable consistency. Apply liberally. You can use a hand spray bottle to get into closed-off sections if you have a small access hole.
Please be sensible when you make this stuff; don't go breathing the fumes or applying heat and burning down your house. If you have any doubts about it, err on the side of caution and just buy a commercially available product.
Obvioulsly the measurements here are for rustproofing automotive sills, so you might try a half-batch or just do all your bikes at once. Also, you can't brush this onto the inside of a bike, but if you just fill the whole frame up and drain it out once or twice, it should work fine.
We british car owners are very affluent in the ways of rust. Waxoyl is hard to come by on this side of the ocean, but...
Here is a recipe for home made "Waxoyl". It's an old fashioned rust treatment / undercoating:
2 1/2 quarts turpentine
12 oz. beeswax / candle wax
1 quart light machine oil
With a cheese shredder, cut the wax into the turpentine, stir until the wax has dissolved, (takes a long time; you can use very low heat (a warm room) to aid but be careful) and thin with the machine oil to a brushable / sprayable consistency. Apply liberally. You can use a hand spray bottle to get into closed-off sections if you have a small access hole.
Please be sensible when you make this stuff; don't go breathing the fumes or applying heat and burning down your house. If you have any doubts about it, err on the side of caution and just buy a commercially available product.
Obvioulsly the measurements here are for rustproofing automotive sills, so you might try a half-batch or just do all your bikes at once. Also, you can't brush this onto the inside of a bike, but if you just fill the whole frame up and drain it out once or twice, it should work fine.
