seypat

Beautiful! My type of pun.

texaspandj

Since the S-I-P order I'm not able to workout at my instructors gym on Tues and Thurs. Also my placece of business is closed til at least May 1st. So I've decided to add cycling back into my workout schedule. Here's my new go with the flow workout schedule:
Mon and Wed run 30 minutes on treadmill. Then workout with my wife at 6pm in our place of business. We do rounds of 3 minutes with a minute rest in-between rounds. She always has a workout plan. For example, one round of boxing on heavy bag then a round of squats then a round of specific punch combos on heavy bag then a round of lunges then a round of kickboxing on heavy bag then a round of battle rope then a round of kicking heavy bag etc for 9 rounds.
On Fridays I run outside for 3 Miles when my wife gets home at 5:10 and she watches our 5yo daughter.
Tue and Thurs I will now be riding 17 - 26 miles (YAY!) once my wife gets home. Also adding weight lifting in before wife gets home. My weight lifting routine is a jed clampett style. Before I would go to the gym but since that's close and we have freeweights but no bench in our place of business, I've modified my lifting routine. It takes all of 10 minutes. I do the same routine as before but instead of 3 sets of 12 reps I do 36 reps of one exercise. For example, chest press, upright row, bicep curl, tricep extension etc.
On Saturday or Sunday I go for a ride.
Admittedly, rain is predicted for the rest of the week and next week and if that's the case I WON'T RIDE. I do not like riding in the rain. Riding on two wheels is tough enough for me no need to add extra excitement.
Hopefully it won't be raining by the time my wife gets home today and i can ride today. However if it does rain it'll be 6 Hard boxing rounds on the heavy bag for me.
Tuesday I rode my '86 Classic. It's my most trusty rusty but the saddle hurt a little. I really hate to get a new saddle but it's lost it's cushioning factor I think. One thing I noticed is despite the fact I always set my bikes up the same, the saddle is always the most difficult to get level or the same to all bikes. And the MV is tilted down s little, maybe I should try that on my Classic first. Anyway, I rode 17 miles and felt better at the end of the ride than the beginning.
So how are you Ironkids dealing with the new norm?

'86 Classic, I absolutely love this Bike. Dura Ace , BB, HS, FD, RD,FW and Hubs. 600 Crankset, Brakeset, Aero-post. First generation Scott DH aerobars and 6 speed Gripshift. Saddle and Stem are OEM.

seypat

This quip was so subtle I missed it the first time around!

seypat

My business is considered "essential," so I am still working.(if you can call it that) Since my business location is where I keep my bikes and work on them, I am servicing everything and making any changes. Taking 4 bikes home so the family can ride during slack time. Yesterday was the first time my son has been out of the house in 20 days. He was actually sick with the regular flu when they started closing school. The hardest thing for me has been adjusting to a new fitness schedule. I do most of my working out at night. The gym chain I belong to is/was open 24hrs/day. Pool/treadmills/stationary bikes, etc. available after dark or in foul weather. At least it is warm enough now to run at night again.

ddeand 

I’m enjoying looking at all the Ironman bikes on this thread! I’m still plugging away on my Ironman project, but I figured I would give you an update on my touch-up paint progress. The Miami Vice magenta color seems to be a bugger to match, and I tried a lot if combinations before I settled on something. My goal is to have the bike looking decent from about eight feet away - the original paint job was surprisingly fairly average on this bike. I found a few runs and other minor flaws in the paint as well as some discoloration in spots from aging. At present, I am still smoothing out the touch-up spots, but when that’s done, I’ll bolt on the D-A groupset and get her out on the road. Here’s a pic of the paints I used to come up with a pretty close match. I did my color tests on the fork steerer tube and scraped off the test spots after they dried. The paint darkens as it dries. The ratio of colors was close to five parts magenta to one part white for starters, then add a color to get it right. I got the paints at a local crafts store for about $3 a bottle. Because of the pandemic situation, I haven’t been able to get back to get the yellow paint. Hope this helps others.

canklecat

Ditto. I have ridden in the rain several times, no problems. But I got careless a couple of weeks ago and rode after a rain, with plenty of wet stuff on the pavement.

Everything went okay until I rode through another ordinary looking puddle and suddenly hit the deck. Wheels slipped out like I was on ice. It WAS ice. Temperature was in the high 40s-low 50s that day, nowhere near freezing. Best I can figure, there were isolated pockets of sleet or hail the night before during a t-storm, and it didn't get warm enough the next day to melt the small accumulation.

I landed on the same shoulder that was broken and dislocated two years ago when I was hit by a car. But no problems this time. Not even a bruise or sore spot.

But after that 2018 injury I got more serious about full body workouts. I'd neglected my core and upper body for years, due to chronic neck and back pain. But last year I spent two months in structured physical therapy in a nearby clinic, and carried on at home on my own.

I don't have any weights, so I use jugs filled with water, weighing 10-20 lbs, mostly as makeshift dumbells and kettlebells. Lots of calisthenics, bodyweight exercises, range of motion, stretching and shadow boxing. Basically, same workout I did in my teens and twenties training for amateur boxing. Martial arts workouts are great, especially if we limit the contact and avoid head contact as we get older. Save that for the younger guys and gals.

Probably helped me avoid a more serious injury when I fell two Fridays ago.

I might still ride in the wet, but it won't be on my road bikes with slick tires.
[/QUOTE]

TXsailor

What craft store carries this? I'm not going shopping anywhere right now but I will be doing a MV soon.

ddeand 

I got my paint at a craft store called Michael’s. I don’t know if they’re nationwide. Alternatively, you could maybe order from the actual company.

https://plaidonline.com/brands/folkart

If the local store is still open today, I may stop by to get some paint to mix up the yellow..

67tony 

1987 Ironman Master, nabbed for a great price about 6 years ago.
It's tied for my favorite bike, but I'm down to three bikes total...so there's that.

I'm swapping to a 13-24 freewheel, from the original 13-21, and while at it I bought a new chain and jockey wheels.

In doing so, I just can't help noticing what great shape this bike is in, and how good quality components freshen up so nicely.

texaspandj

That's Nice 67tony
One of my favorite color schemes.

texaspandj

A while back I cleaned my '86 Classic using a spray very similar to armour all foam cleaner/conditioner...but better. Anyways, I also sprayed the tires sidewall. S little while later I went for a ride and my brakes wouldn't stop as well. I figured I got some of the foam on the rim and figured it would evaporate. However weeks later it still doesn't stop very well. So I took the brake pads off and have cleaned them with dish detergent next I'll clean the rim brake surface thoroughly and hope they work.
It should be noted that the levers and calipers are shimano 600. If they still don't stop well enough I may have to buy new brake pads.
So the question is, What brake pads do you use?

Here's what I had on there. I really like this one piece design. I think they still make them.

TXsailor

We have a Michael's in Wichita Falls which is our closest big town that has much. I'll look there when all this is over. We go there pretty often

TXsailor

I agree I think its one of the prettiest colors combos and I'm not a huge fan of green. I am working on one the same color for my daughter. I'll post pictures when its done.

texaspandj

How much paint are you needing? Touch up or more?

seypat

Unless it is something special like Kool Stop pads or colored housing, I get the cheap stuff from the LBS. This is the brand they carry. I do have some Dia Compe Grey Matter pads on some of the bikes that use that style of pad. They work.

seypat

Looks like you can order it online and have it shipped. Might be cheaper than driving there from Bowie.

https://www.michaels.com/folkart-acr...r=Engine%20Red

zjrog

I know people that have flown, and fly these jets. For them, Thank you. I, myself, am a retired sailor. And still need a few more years before I get to finally retire. Good luck Brother! Good eating, TOO!

TXsailor

I haven't torn down or cleaned the MV but I think all its going to need is touch up. I would like to paint a bottle cage Magenta to go with the yellow one. I think that would look cool.

TXsailor

If I get ready for some and we don't have a trip up there planned I'll do that. We go to Sams Lowes & Attwoods up there for things we can't get here.

texaspandj

The '87 originally came with a 13-24. Perhaps the previous owner changed it out....and now you're changing it back.

None of my bikes have the original freewheels. But since my '87 MV is basically OEM I've kept it's freewheel just in case I want to go back to stock.
Per my records, I have:
'86 (6 speed) 13-21 52x42
'87 (7 speed) 13-26 52x42
'88 (8 speed) 11-28 53x39
'89 (9 speed) 12-25 53x38
The 6, and 7 are Dura Ace freewheels, the 8 speed is Dura Ace cassette,and the 9 speed is a Ultegra cassette.
That is all...ok maybe I posted this for my records.

texaspandj

Thinking about it some more.
When I'm on my '86 Classic with 6 speed 13-21 52x42, I start off in my lowest gear and it's kinda tough, then I warm up and I'm generally in the middle of the freewheel.
When I'm on the '87 MV 13-26 52x42 im comfortable right away. I think that's the gearing I'm most comfortable in lately. Seems whenever I shift it transitions easy enough.
When on my '88 Carbon 11-28 53x39 I'm very uncomfortable and constantly shifting. I generally have to put it in the big ring before I find my rythym.
When on my '89 with 12-25 53x39 it's all good regardless of what gear I need to be in.
That is all... again.
Wait,what gear setup are you most comfortable in?

texaspandj

My '86 has the original 600 brake calipers. The original OEM aero brake levers didn't match so I sold them in thebay and got the matching set of 600 aero brake levers. They match they match YAY. But they aren't SLR like what's on my MV with the matching brakeset. Now those SLR Brakes are exceptionally Good. I love em. Just a night and day difference between the two. My '88 Carbon still has the OEM 600 tricolor 6400/1 brakeset and very similar to the MVs 1051 brakeset in feel and performance.
What brakeset do you prefer?

67tony 

Although my IM Master is an '87, it has a 6-speed 13-21...like your '86 had.
I'm wondering if my bike was produced early in the '87 run, and maybe used some leftover '86 components?

My serial # is N7E5459...does someone know how to convert that to a month and year of manufacture?

67tony 

Answering my own question, and thanks to T-Mar's extensive Centurion database, my serial # indicates an "87 model, built in the 9-10 week of that year.
So, early March, which may or may not explain why I had a 6-speed 13-21 while your "87 had a 7-speed 13-24.

N = probably the manufacturer prefix
7 = year of build
E = fortnight (2 week period) of build date
5459 = probably indicating sequential frame number during fortnight

texaspandj

86-89 had a 13-24 freewheel/cassette. I changed my '86 to a 13-21 freewheel.

Hope this helps, taken from Tmars centurion serial number base thread.


Quote Multi
#2203
Hummer's Avatar Hummer , 10-08-17 10:20 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by T-Mar
The following represents the current understanding of the various serial number formats used on Centurion models marketed by Western States Imports in the USA. Serial numbers were statistically analysed and the results compared against component date codes and extant literature.

1980-1990 Japanese models:

Most Japanese models during this period use a serial number format WXYZZZZ where;

W = a letter, purpose uncertain, but probably indicates manufacturer or Centurion
X = a number, indicating the calendar year of manufacture
Y = a letter, indicating the fortnight of manufacture (A = wk 1 & 2, B = wk 3 & 4, etc)
ZZZZ = four digit number, probably indicating frame number during fortnight

Example: N4E0283 indicates the 283 frame manufactured during the period of weeks 9-10, for the year 1984.

The letter prefix for these codes is typically 'N'. It has been suggested that this represents National, the Japanese market brand for Panasonic, which are built my Matsu****a. While the Panasonic branded models use a similar format, there is no prefix letter, nor is there a letter prefix on the Matsu****a manufactured Schwinns. This suggests the N-codes are be another manufacturer. reportedly Tano, though this is unconfirmed.

However, a number of circa 1984-1985 Centurion have turned up that match the Matsu****a format.


Miki manufactured models (circa 1975-1980)

During the late 1970s, Japan based Miki appears to have manufactured the upper end Centurion models for Western States Imports;

Serial number format Myfxxxxx, where,

M = Miki
y = number indicating year of manufacture
f = letter indicating fortnight of manufacture (i.e A = weel 1-2, B = weeks 3-4,,,,Z = weeks 51-52)
xxxxx = sequential frame number within the fortnight

Example: M7C11265 is the 11,265th frame manufactured by Miki during the 3rd fortnight of 1977.


. . .
This quote: Last edited by T-Mar; 05-03-17 at 04:51 PM.

The Centurion serial numbers with the fornmat Nytxxxx,

where N = "N" frame manufacturer designation of a Japanese frame manufacturer.
y = digit, last digit in the year
t = alpha character for the manufacture time frame within the year.

It has been often stated that "t", time frame, alpha character indicates fortnight within the year.

This "fortnight" time frame never seemed right to me, as this is for a Japanese manufacturer.

For this manufacturer, where did this fortnight idea come from? I have seen no documentation to corroborate the time frame as fortnight.

This serial number format for Centurion is found from 1978 to 1989, 12 years. I have done a year by year analysis of the third character, the time frame character, for this serial number format.

The analysis shows that of the 26 letters of the alphabet, only 15 letters have been reported in serial numbers.
If the time frame is fortnight, i think you can expect that more than 15 letters would be used.

Of these 15 letters, three letters where only reported once in the 12 year history.
If you exclude these, then there are twelve letters.
All the other 12 letters were reported at least 15 time each, over the 12 years of serial numbers.

Twelve letters for twelve months?
Here is how the letters would decode as months:

A = January
B = February
D = March
E = April
G = May
H = June
K = July
L = August
M = September
N = October
P = November
S = December

This letter/month decoding is exactly the same as TI Raleigh serial numbers from 1973 to 1989.

The three letters with one reported occurance: "C", "F", "O".

This analysis is for 275 serial numbers over the 12 years, an average of almost 2 serial numbers per month.

Over the 12 years "P" is the most common letter found, November. November seems like a good time to manufacture frames to be in place for the start of the next year bicycle season.

The analysis does not include "N" serial numbers from Centurian Australia, Diamondback mountain bikes, or any of several other brand names that had frames with serial numbers with the same format. However serial numbers that I have seen from these sources have no exceptions to the month time frame letters that I have listed above.

* * * *

A similar analysis of Miki serial numbers will reveal that the third character of the serial number for time of year of manufacture is unlikly to be fortnight.

More likely to be monthly, but using a different subset of letters for month than listed above.

A = January
B = February
C = March
D = April
E = May
F = June
G = July
H = August
J = September
K = October
L = November
M = December
Quote