trainman999

7/16 Square key from hardware store removes see post 16 and 18 here
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...n-minutes.html

you can disassemble this with R J the bike guys you tube instructions, but if anything is broken inside it you would be better off finding a used 7403 hub on ebay, use the free hub and axle to convert your wheel to 8 9 10 speed sell the expensive tool back on ebay

miamijim

That tool wont do much of anything different than an in situ repair as mentioned earlier. The only reason to remove the freehub is because it needs replacement or your going to swap it to another hub.

Flush, spin, drain. Flush spin, drain. Repeat until drainage looks the same as when it when in.

easyupbug 

Work around:
TL-FH10 7400 カセットフリー 抜き デュラエース

top506

Been there done that:

CycleryNorth81

Does anybody know if the uniglide freehub on a Shimano Sante can be replace with a standard Hyperglide freehub?

Thanks in advance.

Ghrumpy

Yes. Uses the standard spline and bolt interface.

tungsten

How does one get at the actual pawls? I was prescient enough to have bought the TL-FH10 way back in '88 when the bike was built and even think I could scrounge that two pronged race puller pic'd above but am stalled after having pulled the freehub body off the shell.

Maybe I'll take above advice and soak it in a jar of Simple Green overnight and then lube with Tri-Flow?

Kontact 

I wouldn't use something caustic and water based like Simple Green. Use mineral spirits to avoid rusting the inside - especially the fine pawl springs.

tungsten

Good point. Soaking in kerosene.

johnlink

I removed the freehub with the TL-FH10 removal tool. Damn that freehub was tight! The old freehub spun more quietly and easily than the new one, so I wondered whether that's because the pawls were not moving easily enough, which might also explain the skipping I sometimes have. I soaked the old freehub in rubbing alcohol and now it's a little noisier when I spin it. It still spins more easily than the new one.

I now have two possible courses of action:

1) Install the old freehub and observe whether there's any skipping.
1a) If there's no skipping, conclude that soaking the freehub freed its pawls and solved the original problem.
1b) If there's skipping, conclude that the old freehub is shot and install the new freehub.

2) Install the new freehub.

The second course of action is guaranteed to give me a better ride, but it won't let me learn whether or not I've solved the problem by soaking the old freehub.

I'm going with the first option because I will learn more, and I can always install the new freehub whenever I want to.

noglider 

I don't know the overhaul procedure for these things is, but if there is one, do it. It may involve drizzling oil in the gaps, and it may involve cleaning and regreasing the races. Do that to the first unit.

miamijim

I've pulled freehub bodies part and highly suggest NOT to. Flush, spin, flush, spin and repeat until the effluent isn't dirty. Lub, spin, lub, spin repeat until the effluent isn't dirty.

noglider 

OK, the same as with freewheels in almost all cases.

@johnlink, since the friction isn't in the freehub, I guess the friction we observed last week must be in the chain. Have you replaced that yet?

miamijim

Yes. But, some have a rubber ring seal on the backside. Those models will NOT flush well unless the rubber seal is removed. Simply flick it out with a pick and then reinstall when your done.

johnlink

I replaced the chain and now there's much less friction in the drive train.

noglider 

Great. Now I recommend some Chain-L oil lube. It can't be worse than whatever you were using. I like it a lot.

johnlink

It seems that flushing the freehub with 91% rubbing alcohol and then lubing it with Tri-flow solved the problem, because on my 20-mile ride today I experienced no skipping in my drive train.

tungsten

Kerosene, meet Tri-Flow.

In the absence of anti-seize compound I'm thinking a dab of grease where the freehub threads into hub shell?

Ghrumpy

Sure, grease is better than nothing, but nothing is better than anti-seize for static or non-moving assemblies. (Meaning: anti-seize is better than everything else.)

Be aware that using grease or anti-seize (or even thread locker) lowers the friction between the fastener and what it's fastened to, of course, so if torque values given are for dry installation, lubricated installation torque values have to be adjusted lower by about 25%. If not sure, err towards the lower torque value of the range given. It is safer, as over-torqued fasteners tend to fail catastrophically. Under-torqued fasteners simply get loose and can be re-tightened with more torque.

If you're doing your own repairs, just buy a small tube of anti-seize at your FLAPS (friendly neighborhood auto parts store) for only a few bucks. Will probably last years.

tungsten

While all above is true I think over torquing is unlikely. I mean, how much torque will be applied by me grunting a 10% grade in a 34-26?

top506

Don't know, but the Shimano specs call for the installation of the freehub to be dry.

Top

tungsten

Hey I got a Viscount hanging in the garage. It's bent, no parts they all went on the replacement frame when I sold it. It was bent too, had to put it in a vise and reef on it.
Still have the forks though, the aluminum ones with the re-bar inside.

Dry. Thanks.....

johnlink

Shimano says to not lubricate the threads.

Ghrumpy

Then that's what I'd do.

tungsten

And that's what I did, I mean, didn't do ....... almost done ....... I goin' for a ride today!