Follis ~ bicyclette française masochiste
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That will take a lot of evaporust won't it? I thought that's why people will use an OA bath because it's less expensive.
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https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...evaporust.html
And it doesn't even use up that gallon and a half, since you can pour it back into the original jugs for re-use later.
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#29
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Very cool. I'm envious! I love the eccentricities of a French bike. Can't wait to see more
#31
Death fork? Naaaah!!
With a Gitane, a Motobecane, and a Pug in the barn I would have been all over this.
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You know it's going to be a good day when the stem and seatpost come right out.
(looking for a picture and not seeing it? Thank the Photobucket fiasco.PM me and I'll link it up.)
You know it's going to be a good day when the stem and seatpost come right out.
(looking for a picture and not seeing it? Thank the Photobucket fiasco.PM me and I'll link it up.)
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I think you will like how the bike handles.
that rear derailleur ... every time I see one I am reminded of the movie Brazil for some reason.
that rear derailleur ... every time I see one I am reminded of the movie Brazil for some reason.
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About the only way you could have made life harder would be to use a Cinelli Bivalent hub and freewheel.
Steve in Peoria
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Peeled it down with a bit nuisance and seized aluminum crank caps.
Prior service shows an attempt with a poor Allen wrench and was partially rounded out. So, what to do? Cut a slice across the cap and with a screwdriver, tap one half of it counterclockwise. Both sides done, the rest disassembled with ease. Surprisingly, the bearings were well greased and in great condition. The Nervar bottom bracket spindle is beastly and uses plastic bearing cages. No spindle protective sleeve. (Pics later)
Frame bath with mild liquid formula Bar Keepers Friend. Note difference of the clean in progress right seat stay vs the left. Chrome has rough areas but overall, the frame is solid and ding free. Paint chipped and flaws, I'm not planning to touch it up. Cleaner wax and done.
The insides are getting an overnight white vinegar soak with follow up Seafoam coating.
Prior service shows an attempt with a poor Allen wrench and was partially rounded out. So, what to do? Cut a slice across the cap and with a screwdriver, tap one half of it counterclockwise. Both sides done, the rest disassembled with ease. Surprisingly, the bearings were well greased and in great condition. The Nervar bottom bracket spindle is beastly and uses plastic bearing cages. No spindle protective sleeve. (Pics later)
Frame bath with mild liquid formula Bar Keepers Friend. Note difference of the clean in progress right seat stay vs the left. Chrome has rough areas but overall, the frame is solid and ding free. Paint chipped and flaws, I'm not planning to touch it up. Cleaner wax and done.
The insides are getting an overnight white vinegar soak with follow up Seafoam coating.
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This is going to clean up nicely.
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Embellished stem and handlebar fun.
Likely the handlebar wrap is original and thought why not just leave it?! Not perfect but fits the bikes overall appearance. Going with flying French flag colors by keeping the white AME hoods, red wrap and using blue cable.
Drilled the customary small holes at the stem split to prevent any potential stress risers. Belleri on stem is spelled different from handlebar. Mothers polish for a quick rescue.
The original long stem bolt was snapped at the top! Now replaced.
Had the TA stem cable guide stashed away and figured this is appropriate here.
Likely the handlebar wrap is original and thought why not just leave it?! Not perfect but fits the bikes overall appearance. Going with flying French flag colors by keeping the white AME hoods, red wrap and using blue cable.
Drilled the customary small holes at the stem split to prevent any potential stress risers. Belleri on stem is spelled different from handlebar. Mothers polish for a quick rescue.
The original long stem bolt was snapped at the top! Now replaced.
Had the TA stem cable guide stashed away and figured this is appropriate here.
Last edited by crank_addict; 02-20-20 at 01:01 AM.
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#38
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https://www.mcmaster.com/1061t25
Best Wishes: Mike
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I've never seen the TA stem cable guide. Zip ties are lighter and cheaper for a weight weenie build but not really period correct,
So are there some threads on drilling holes on the stem split to relieve any potential stress risers? I haven't read about this. I have to admit, bar or stem failure on an old bike is something I think a little bit about. It's such a bad place for a parts failure. It's one of the reasons why I like running a new Nitto bar and stem on my builds.
So are there some threads on drilling holes on the stem split to relieve any potential stress risers? I haven't read about this. I have to admit, bar or stem failure on an old bike is something I think a little bit about. It's such a bad place for a parts failure. It's one of the reasons why I like running a new Nitto bar and stem on my builds.
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#40
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So are there some threads on drilling holes on the stem split to relieve any potential stress risers? I haven't read about this. I have to admit, bar or stem failure on an old bike is something I think a little bit about. It's such a bad place for a parts failure. It's one of the reasons why I like running a new Nitto bar and stem on my builds.
In the case of stems, you'll notice a lot of them already have a 'cul de sac' at the end of the split in the stem, this is to prevent cracking. A few varieties of stems didn't have this and are prone to cracking at the 'end of the road' unless you drill a 'cul de sac' at the end. I prefer using a step bit (uni-bit, whatever you prefer) at the end of the split to get a nice, round bulb where it needs to be.
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PS: Kurt has a great write-up on death stems here: https://theheadbadge.blogspot.com/20...-and-atax.html
Many companies were guilty, pretty sure this is a 3TTT stem here, you can see where it's cracking, at the corner, 90° angles are a common fatigue point, focused stress, and why the drill-out trick is a good preventative measure.:
And here's an instructional picture from Chas:
Many companies were guilty, pretty sure this is a 3TTT stem here, you can see where it's cracking, at the corner, 90° angles are a common fatigue point, focused stress, and why the drill-out trick is a good preventative measure.:
And here's an instructional picture from Chas:
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#42
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Embellished stem and handlebar fun.
Likely the handlebar wrap is original and thought why not just leave it?! Not perfect but fits the bikes overall appearance. Going with flying French flag colors by keeping the white AME hoods, red wrap and using blue cable.
Drilled the customary small holes at the stem split to prevent any potential stress risers. Belleri on stem is spelled different from handlebar. Mothers polish for a quick rescue.
The original long stem bolt was snapped at the top! Now replaced.
Had the TA stem cable guide stashed away and figured this is appropriate here.
Likely the handlebar wrap is original and thought why not just leave it?! Not perfect but fits the bikes overall appearance. Going with flying French flag colors by keeping the white AME hoods, red wrap and using blue cable.
Drilled the customary small holes at the stem split to prevent any potential stress risers. Belleri on stem is spelled different from handlebar. Mothers polish for a quick rescue.
The original long stem bolt was snapped at the top! Now replaced.
Had the TA stem cable guide stashed away and figured this is appropriate here.
I always thought the TA cable guide was an interesting device. Not sure how much difference it makes, but kind of fun.
Plus... it is one more vote for the "cables behind the bars" configuration!
I hope you can find new grommets for it, though.
Steve in Peoria
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Dig the headbadge denoting 'tandem'.
Inside of Pepe le Pew tubes are decent. Odd there's no gas vent holes or access to the seat stay tubes, so no way to spray protectant for the insides. I suppose could drill a small hole but will leave it for now. Frame structure is sound.
Inside of Pepe le Pew tubes are decent. Odd there's no gas vent holes or access to the seat stay tubes, so no way to spray protectant for the insides. I suppose could drill a small hole but will leave it for now. Frame structure is sound.
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#44
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Not wanting to rethread the crank, these Atom pedals with the 'droit' threads arrived. They spin nice though will get a full service.
Last edited by crank_addict; 02-20-20 at 02:46 PM.
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This started with a tubular tire purpose.....just goes to show that tubies are the devil "tubies rhyme with T and stand for Trouble, right here in C&V city"
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#46
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The irony, er contrary is I'm planning to use Belgium made Weinmann concave 700c hookless clinchers. Situation awareness, we continue on...
Frame is spiffed enough with corrosion removed and coated inside and out. With chrome degraded in many areas, it wouldn't pay to redo but for a complete coverage of paint. I like and accept the way it is, looking forward to the next phase of component clean and service.
As if it matters.... call it a 6 plus pounder-
Follis 172 fork
Follis 172 frame
#47
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Not much to update other than the frame is ready for the build. When first seeing the exterior, I was concerned of corrosion on the insides, however its now really clean and oil fogged.
Last edited by crank_addict; 02-24-20 at 02:42 PM.
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#49
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#50
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A Follis is on the short list of bikes I'd like to own; this is a cool project.