Early 90's Diamond Outlook Restoration
08-02-20, 07:12 AM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Early 90's Diamond Outlook Restoration
Preface: I am a newbie to DIY bicycle MX, and am learning a tremendous amount from these forums, so thank your insight and patience!
My sister gave me her early 90's DB Outlook (best guess is a '92 or '93) to clean up for her son after it sat in a garage for ~25 years.
My technical questions:
-Is grease or oil recommended for headset bearings?
-The chain ring says "Sugino". I was able to remove the NDS crank arm and BB "cup" to clean/repack the bearings. The drive side does not come off in the same fashion. From my online research, it APPEARS to be a Sunlite 3-piece bottom bracket cup set. Do I need to invest in a puller in order to grease the DS BB Bearings?
-The rims are chromed and have light surface rust/pitting. After I have cleaned those, does anyone have recommendations for preventative measures to keep rust from coming back? I.e. will wiping them down with a thin coat of WD40 help prevent rust from coming back?
As always, thank you for your help!
My sister gave me her early 90's DB Outlook (best guess is a '92 or '93) to clean up for her son after it sat in a garage for ~25 years.
My technical questions:
-Is grease or oil recommended for headset bearings?
-The chain ring says "Sugino". I was able to remove the NDS crank arm and BB "cup" to clean/repack the bearings. The drive side does not come off in the same fashion. From my online research, it APPEARS to be a Sunlite 3-piece bottom bracket cup set. Do I need to invest in a puller in order to grease the DS BB Bearings?
-The rims are chromed and have light surface rust/pitting. After I have cleaned those, does anyone have recommendations for preventative measures to keep rust from coming back? I.e. will wiping them down with a thin coat of WD40 help prevent rust from coming back?
As always, thank you for your help!
08-02-20, 07:57 AM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Roswell, GA
Posts: 8,319
Bikes: '93 Trek 750, '92 Schwinn Crisscross, '93 Mongoose Alta
Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1438 Post(s)
Liked 1,092 Times
in
723 Posts
Grease for bearings
Wd-40 on rims will resist rust but will also resist proper brake function; never put anything on brake tracks or shoes, they are friction surfaces which need to be free of contaminants.
Wd-40 on rims will resist rust but will also resist proper brake function; never put anything on brake tracks or shoes, they are friction surfaces which need to be free of contaminants.
08-02-20, 08:39 AM
#3
Member
Thread Starter
Thank you for the grease/oil input. Yes, I was thinking about WD-40 to coat the wheels, then going over the breaking surfaces thoroughly with rubbing Alcohol.
08-02-20, 08:47 AM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: San Mateo,Ca.
Posts: 3,983
Bikes: TRIMMED DOWN THE HERD
Mentioned: 46 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1090 Post(s)
Liked 935 Times
in
600 Posts
You'll need one of these for the ds cup:
https://www.parktool.com/product/cra...ttom%20Bracket
Or if you can try removing it with some sort of wrench to save you the one-time use only of a specialty tool,even better. Remember on the ds it's righty loosey.
https://www.parktool.com/product/cra...ttom%20Bracket
Or if you can try removing it with some sort of wrench to save you the one-time use only of a specialty tool,even better. Remember on the ds it's righty loosey.
08-02-20, 09:20 AM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Montreal, Quebec
Posts: 5,917
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1813 Post(s)
Liked 1,691 Times
in
972 Posts
Don't do that. WD40 will leave an oily film on the brake track, which you absolutely do not want to have and alcohol is not a very good degreaser
08-02-20, 09:20 AM
#6
Member
Thread Starter
I've removed the DS crank arm nut, but the crank arm isn't coming off. Do I need a tool to remove the crank arm as well?
The NDS crank arm came right off when I removed the nut.
08-02-20, 05:43 PM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: San Mateo,Ca.
Posts: 3,983
Bikes: TRIMMED DOWN THE HERD
Mentioned: 46 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1090 Post(s)
Liked 935 Times
in
600 Posts
Thank you. from looking at the tool and the link, it looks like the crank arm and chain ring need to be removed first, right? If that's the case...that's where I'm stuck.
I've removed the DS crank arm nut, but the crank arm isn't coming off. Do I need a tool to remove the crank arm as well?
The NDS crank arm came right off when I removed the nut.
I've removed the DS crank arm nut, but the crank arm isn't coming off. Do I need a tool to remove the crank arm as well?
The NDS crank arm came right off when I removed the nut.
08-02-20, 07:13 PM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Golden, CO and Tucson, AZ
Posts: 2,835
Bikes: 2016 Fuji Tread, 1983 Trek 520
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 674 Post(s)
Liked 738 Times
in
429 Posts
You can clean and grease the DS cup from the NDS, once you've pulled both cranks and the spindle. If there's any pitting in the cup (which can be felt with a ball point pen), you'll need to replace it. If it's hard to wrench out (stress on the left hand threads), tap the wrench handle with a mallet. Use a heat gun if needed. This can be the most difficult overhaul job on some bikes.
Good catch, finding the loose crank arm. You wouldn't want to ride it that loose.
Be sure the threads in the crank arm for the puller are clean, and that the tool is bottomed all the way in. Use light torque on a crescent wrench to be sure. That can be a difficult pull, too.
Good catch, finding the loose crank arm. You wouldn't want to ride it that loose.
Be sure the threads in the crank arm for the puller are clean, and that the tool is bottomed all the way in. Use light torque on a crescent wrench to be sure. That can be a difficult pull, too.
08-03-20, 06:00 AM
#9
Member
Thread Starter
Fair enough. I can justify the expense. It doesn't make any sense to invest in new tires (the old ones are original and are thoroughly dry rotted) while leaving half the crank bearings dry. Might as well get a hub puller while I'm at it.
08-03-20, 06:02 AM
#10
Member
Thread Starter
You can clean and grease the DS cup from the NDS, once you've pulled both cranks and the spindle. If there's any pitting in the cup (which can be felt with a ball point pen), you'll need to replace it. If it's hard to wrench out (stress on the left hand threads), tap the wrench handle with a mallet. Use a heat gun if needed. This can be the most difficult overhaul job on some bikes.
Good catch, finding the loose crank arm. You wouldn't want to ride it that loose.
Be sure the threads in the crank arm for the puller are clean, and that the tool is bottomed all the way in. Use light torque on a crescent wrench to be sure. That can be a difficult pull, too.
Good catch, finding the loose crank arm. You wouldn't want to ride it that loose.
Be sure the threads in the crank arm for the puller are clean, and that the tool is bottomed all the way in. Use light torque on a crescent wrench to be sure. That can be a difficult pull, too.
08-03-20, 06:31 AM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Golden, CO and Tucson, AZ
Posts: 2,835
Bikes: 2016 Fuji Tread, 1983 Trek 520
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 674 Post(s)
Liked 738 Times
in
429 Posts
Clean, inspect for damage (compare sides), a bit of grease on the spindle and bolt threads, and proper torque (about 30 ft-lbs).
