WizardOfBoz

Yes, well, this is Bike Forums. Where any innocent question or statement can be responded to with obdurate opinion without data in the most inflammatory manner!

I agree with you, but at the same time, the manufacturer's approach to bonding failed so perhaps its amusing to consider how best to remediate. Plus, the general question regarding other uses of epoxies and CF. At least it amuses me....

Mad Honk 

Wiz,
I use the 3M bonding adhesive exclusively in repairing golf clubs. The shear strength there is paramount in keeping the epoxy joint together as is indicated by my $1m insurance policy. But more to the point in this discussion, is the amount of adhesive in the joint. I have a few years of experience in this and the best adhesion amounts are between three and five thousandsth of an inch. Less and there is epoxy starvation, and more means the epoxy needs to hold up to the stresses of the 2800 psi needed for golf shaft to golf head for proper installation. If the epoxy exceeds the amount of minimum needed, the bond can break internally and fail. Same with starvation, but harder to achieve with what I do. HTH, MH

WizardOfBoz

MH, Thanks. I can see that if the club heads are bored properly, and the shafts are of proper size, then you should be able to know the epoxy thickness very well. Is centering the shaft in the club bore an issue?

BTW, my (late, alas) father was a PGA touring pro briefly, and my grand-Dad was a PGA teaching pro. Dad played to a minus 2 in his prime. I irony is that I could never play to save my life. Sigh. You may find it interesting that Dad played with a custom set of MacGregor Tourney clubs - Tru-temper extra stiff shafts. He was wiry (6 foot and probably 170 pounds) but was very strong. The last time we played I was in college. I was on the Wisconsin football team. 6'2, about 220#. My Dad drove and I followed. I happened to really "hit it on the screws"*.
"I think I finally out-drove you, Dad!"
"Yeah, well, you had to pick on an old man to do it".
But in truth, he actually had me by 3 yards. I never did out-drive the guy.

*For non-golfers, that means I really whacked it well.

Mad Honk 

Wiz,
Sorry about your loosing of your Dad, I went though it a few years back, but it is never easy. Glad to know you know the terminology of the industry, and it is always good to meet a fellow golfer. I am sure the industry is marching forward, but the epoxies I use are the cutting edge and they are some of the best shear strength I have found.. As always I have to keep up with the latest and greatest on the market in my world. I trust all is well and you are doing fine, Smiles, MH

Chris O

Just an update. The manufacturer, Wilier Triestina, has offered to send me a replacement washer for me to glue in myself, so some of your suggestions on epoxying will be helpful. I expressed my dissatisfaction and was hoping for better. Guess I should have bought a Trek or Cannondale....

WizardOfBoz

For a 2 & 1/2 year-old bike I don't think this is particularly bad customer service. I guess I would have hoped that they'd send a little glue kit but sending you the washer seams reasonable.

I'd clean the frame and washer, mix the epoxy, coat the part of the frame where the washer registers, and then clamp the washer in fairly lightly with the QR (per the discussion above you don't want too much glue in the joint, but you dont want to force too much glue out). Worst case? You'll need a new washer in another 2.5 years.

Chris O

Yeah, that's what I'll do and just try not to epoxy the QR to the dropout.

WizardOfBoz

You can put a little oil on the QR and the wheel locknut before gluing.