Leather saddle sagging? Tension or wax or both?
#52
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#53
Banned
Not really .. I'm saying that is were evidence of wear , and tear, shows up.. and tightening the bolt exacerbates that.
#55
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Project is on hold while I try to lay my hands on some SNO-seal! I guess in San Diego they don't stock much of it. I tried Sports Authority, Target and Walmart, (all in both the shoe and camping sections), no joy. I don't want to drive all the way out to REI. I think I've done my due local diligence and should just buy online now. I did buy my laces though, I remembered my dad used to have a leather punch, so hopefully he can find it for me.
Meanwhile I took the Ideale off and am back to the Selle Italia Gel Flite Ti; it feels like a little log; on the one hand, not sagging, but on the other hand, not forgiving. I'm looking forward to getting this Ideale in decent shape!
Meanwhile I took the Ideale off and am back to the Selle Italia Gel Flite Ti; it feels like a little log; on the one hand, not sagging, but on the other hand, not forgiving. I'm looking forward to getting this Ideale in decent shape!
#56
Senior Member
I got my Sno Seal from a cobbler's shop(still don't recommend using on your saddle). You can get it through Amazon and various outdoor outfitters on line.
#57
Junior Member
I have had a Brooks B72 for many years but I don't ride but maybe 20 miles a weekend. I had never treated my saddle until I got a VO model 3 Touring saddle for a project bike over the winter. That thing was hard as a rock. I used some Sno-Seal (from REI) that I had lying around for my boots on both saddles. The Brooks is at home and I used a hair drier to get the sno-seal to soak in on both sides. I finally rode it this weekend and I noticed it was noticeably softer by the end of my ride. Mind you, I knew my B72 was a bit stiff, but not unbearable because I don't ride very far.
After my ride I pressed down on the saddle and noticed it was very soft. Because the B72 has double rails and requires a seat post sandwich, I was actually hitting nut/screw of the seat post. I decided to install my own lace. I ended up using a punch set that I got from Harbor Freight that I actually use for many things around the house and it worked well for this project. Thought about drilling it but wasn't sure how that would come out. Had I read this thread I would have probably done that instead. The punch scared me because the hole looked a lot bigger than was needed, but after the lace went through it didn't look so bad.
I don't know if it will keep getting softer, but hopefully it stops at a place that is just right.
I would post images but it says I can't unless I made 10 posts
After my ride I pressed down on the saddle and noticed it was very soft. Because the B72 has double rails and requires a seat post sandwich, I was actually hitting nut/screw of the seat post. I decided to install my own lace. I ended up using a punch set that I got from Harbor Freight that I actually use for many things around the house and it worked well for this project. Thought about drilling it but wasn't sure how that would come out. Had I read this thread I would have probably done that instead. The punch scared me because the hole looked a lot bigger than was needed, but after the lace went through it didn't look so bad.
I don't know if it will keep getting softer, but hopefully it stops at a place that is just right.
I would post images but it says I can't unless I made 10 posts
#58
Banned
my warming it was all about getting to the melting point of the wax constituent of the proofide .
sitting it out in the summer desert sun, at noon, can reach the same temperatures ...
if you want a soft to the touch saddle you may not like traditional leather saddles .. time will tell..
my parked outside in the rain bike has a 'pleather' covered Dense foam on a nylon shell .. saddle..
...
sitting it out in the summer desert sun, at noon, can reach the same temperatures ...
if you want a soft to the touch saddle you may not like traditional leather saddles .. time will tell..
my parked outside in the rain bike has a 'pleather' covered Dense foam on a nylon shell .. saddle..
...
#59
Senior Member
As to value there is a steady market in Ideale 90 saddles. Takes rare luck to get a deal on those. I'd not purchase that one myself, don't like the erosion of leather next to the rivet on right side of cantle. But if I had it I'd sure ride it. And others would buy it. If you just don't want it, sell it.
Not sure what's in SnoSeal. Straight beeswax or Obenauf's will definitely make the saddle harder. I use Obenauf's because I like them hard.
Leather is not forever. Oxidation gets leather. Heat gets leather. Ideale had absolutely the best leather and best leather treatment. As original they were a lot softer than Brooks. Brooks was way harder in 1970 than presently, the Ideale was like glove leather and needed no break in. The supple pliable leather of an Ideale stayed that way a long time. After 49 years it is what it is.
Not sure what's in SnoSeal. Straight beeswax or Obenauf's will definitely make the saddle harder. I use Obenauf's because I like them hard.
Leather is not forever. Oxidation gets leather. Heat gets leather. Ideale had absolutely the best leather and best leather treatment. As original they were a lot softer than Brooks. Brooks was way harder in 1970 than presently, the Ideale was like glove leather and needed no break in. The supple pliable leather of an Ideale stayed that way a long time. After 49 years it is what it is.
#60
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Last year on the TD, my son had a slight mechanical issue to address. My saddle was feeling just a bit saggy, so I tweaked it a bit tighter. Another 25 miles down the road, I could feel that it was a bit harder than I liked so I backed it off a touch. they can be temperamental.
I have Brooks and Rivet saddles on all of my bikes. I treat them all with mink oil to get them broken in. Breaking them in can be a PITA literally.
I have Brooks and Rivet saddles on all of my bikes. I treat them all with mink oil to get them broken in. Breaking them in can be a PITA literally.
#61
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As to value there is a steady market in Ideale 90 saddles. Takes rare luck to get a deal on those. I'd not purchase that one myself, don't like the erosion of leather next to the rivet on right side of cantle. But if I had it I'd sure ride it. And others would buy it. If you just don't want it, sell it.
Leather is not forever. Oxidation gets leather. Heat gets leather. Ideale had absolutely the best leather and best leather treatment. As original they were a lot softer than Brooks. Brooks was way harder in 1970 than presently, the Ideale was like glove leather and needed no break in. The supple pliable leather of an Ideale stayed that way a long time. After 49 years it is what it is.
Leather is not forever. Oxidation gets leather. Heat gets leather. Ideale had absolutely the best leather and best leather treatment. As original they were a lot softer than Brooks. Brooks was way harder in 1970 than presently, the Ideale was like glove leather and needed no break in. The supple pliable leather of an Ideale stayed that way a long time. After 49 years it is what it is.
It's for sale actually, see last picture here: https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/...836598949.html
Last edited by RubeRad; 04-03-19 at 11:12 AM.
#62
Senior Member
LOL I got an Ideale with a tear in the skirt. My dad bought the bike in 1970, it was fine until he moved house maybe around 2010 and at the new house the bike's new place was outside for a year or two.
It's for sale actually, see last picture here: https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/...836598949.html
It's for sale actually, see last picture here: https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/...836598949.html