What crankset is most appropriate for this bike?
06-29-18, 07:59 PM
#1
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What crankset is most appropriate for this bike?
BB bracket is 68mm BSA. Please suggest something that is actually obtainable relatively easily. No exotica, or rarities.
06-29-18, 08:03 PM
#2
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I'm more concerned about 3 big holes in the top tube.
As for crankset, so many choices. Partially depends on your gearing requirements.
Style ? Vintage ?
As for crankset, so many choices. Partially depends on your gearing requirements.
Style ? Vintage ?
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06-29-18, 08:06 PM
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Something with a large chainring I assume. Looks like the front derailleur bracket may limit your range. I know you can get them at places like bikefriday that will fit many common cranksets... https://store.bikefriday.com/index.php?cPath=67
06-29-18, 08:46 PM
#4
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I am going to point to a Spécialités TA Carmina crank, with the smallest possible bolt circle for the spider. It is effectively a modern version of the TA Cyclotouriste crank.
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06-29-18, 08:54 PM
#5
incazzare.
Anything silver.
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06-29-18, 08:59 PM
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06-29-18, 09:01 PM
#7
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I've got a VO Grand Cru Drillium on hand, so unless something else pops up, I may go with that...
*
06-29-18, 09:13 PM
#8
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Sun XCD with the single 3 lobe chainring. Or double, like this:
Or, hollow chromed steel BMX cranks. You'd need what BMX people call a "euro" bottom bracket, which is the same as BSC.
And some sort of crazy BMX "sprocket" (chainring). There's an immense variety.
Or, hollow chromed steel BMX cranks. You'd need what BMX people call a "euro" bottom bracket, which is the same as BSC.
And some sort of crazy BMX "sprocket" (chainring). There's an immense variety.
Last edited by Salamandrine; 06-29-18 at 09:17 PM.
06-29-18, 09:24 PM
#9
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Very nice.
06-29-18, 10:18 PM
#10
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Something, anything, as long as it has a 100 tooth chain ring - something almost as large in diameter as the wheels.
Those holes in the top tube are BAD news for the structure. I don't think there is a worse place for them.
Those holes in the top tube are BAD news for the structure. I don't think there is a worse place for them.
06-29-18, 11:43 PM
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Obviously, the geometry is different from a full-sized bike; @Abu Mahindra, I'm curious how high the center of the bottom bracket is above the ground, as the bike currently sits? On my bikes it seems to range between 26-28cm mostly. If yours is a lot lower than that, I would look for any crank with short arms, 165mm or less. The idea being with the shorter the crank arm, the less likely you'll be to to have a pedal strike while pedaling around a corner. That Grand Cru crank you have looks pretty sweet.
And yeah, that top tube is deeply into WTF territory.
Seriously, WTF?
And yeah, that top tube is deeply into WTF territory.
Seriously, WTF?
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● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
Last edited by Lascauxcaveman; 06-29-18 at 11:51 PM.
06-30-18, 01:34 AM
#12
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Thread Starter
Obviously, the geometry is different from a full-sized bike; @Abu Mahindra, I'm curious how high the center of the bottom bracket is above the ground, as the bike currently sits? On my bikes it seems to range between 26-28cm mostly. If yours is a lot lower than that, I would look for any crank with short arms, 165mm or less. The idea being with the shorter the crank arm, the less likely you'll be to to have a pedal strike while pedaling around a corner. That Grand Cru crank you have looks pretty sweet.
And yeah, that top tube is deeply into WTF territory.
Seriously, WTF?
And yeah, that top tube is deeply into WTF territory.
Seriously, WTF?
Cheers...
06-30-18, 01:38 AM
#13
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Well, you certainly have more experience than me.
With that kind of normal BB clearance, I guess whatever crank your legs like is the best to use.
From your unedited original response, by "burly steel rings" do you mean the holes are reinforced by a steel insert; sort of like how spoke holes on alloy rims are reinforced by an eyelet? I am intrigued. More details on this frame, please, I've seen a few threads on mini velos, but I've never seen anything quite like this.
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● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
Last edited by Lascauxcaveman; 06-30-18 at 01:46 AM.
06-30-18, 01:56 AM
#14
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Well, you certainly have more experience than me.
From your unedited original response, by "burly steel rings" do you mean the holes are reinforced by a steel insert; sort of like how spoke holes on alloy rims are reinforced by an eyelet? I am intrigued. More details on this frame, please, I've seen a few threads on mini veils, butI never seen anything quite like this.
From your unedited original response, by "burly steel rings" do you mean the holes are reinforced by a steel insert; sort of like how spoke holes on alloy rims are reinforced by an eyelet? I am intrigued. More details on this frame, please, I've seen a few threads on mini veils, butI never seen anything quite like this.
The bike is a Bannard Super Racing frameset. Bannard is a now defunct Taiwanese company that won a handful of design awards in Asia during its brief life. I managed to get my hands on three of their minivelos before they expired.
Super Racing
Sunny
Tension-R
06-30-18, 03:43 AM
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I would love a mini velo.
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06-30-18, 04:16 AM
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Thread moved from C&V to Bicycle Mechanics.
06-30-18, 04:50 AM
#17
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06-30-18, 04:57 AM
#18
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fyi...
the OP question was with regards to aesthetics, not mechanical compatibility.
06-30-18, 07:56 AM
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Big holes in the frame are unusual in most of our experiences. I believe they can be engineered well. If you're saying they are a characteristic of a frame design that is successful in the field, fine with me.
Crankset recommendations need a few considerations in a frame where there is little familiarity. Engineering-wise, there are three basic considerations:
1. Are there any new constraints on the crankarm length? Since you said the BB height (I understand BB center height) is 28 cm, that 's fine, no major concern.
2. What is the upper limit on the chainring size?
For the same top gear, a small-wheel frame needs a big chainring. If the chainring is to be a double, you need a derailleur and your frame has a braze-on to install the front derailleur. The height from the BB center to the bottom of the slot in the front mech braze on is (my measurement on a steel road bike, filter it accordingly) is 143 mm, which accommodates up to a 54 tooth big ring with the required 2 mm spacing between chainring and derailleur cage. For a commensurate small wheel/large chainring, It should scale up to perhaps 28 cm, to get road bike gearing.
I'm assuming your road wheels have a diameter ⅔ of a 700c, or 18 inches (no idea if this matches your frame, just a guess). The large chainring would be not in the neighborhood of 52 teeth, but 78 teeth. Your front braze on would have to be more like 210 millimeters up from BB center.
So if you are using derailleur gearing as is my initial assumption, you would need the braze-on located about 210 millimeters up from the BB center. The crank therefore needs to supply a big enough chainring.
I can't say this is all applicable, but as an engineer this is step one to understanding the question you've asked.
Unless your question is really, black or silver? For that I say "silver," since I always do.
06-30-18, 08:01 AM
#20
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06-30-18, 08:02 AM
#21
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I don't think anyone here is trying to challenge your experience, knowledge, opinions, or statements. Nor will we, I hope. We are using our experience to try to assist you with your question.
Big holes in the frame are unusual in most of our experiences. I believe they can be engineered well. If you're saying they are a characteristic of a frame design that is successful in the field, fine with me.
Crankset recommendations need a few considerations in a frame where there is little familiarity. Engineering-wise, there are three basic considerations:
1. Are there any new constraints on the crankarm length? Since you said the BB height (I understand BB center height) is 28 cm, that 's fine, no major concern.
2. What is the upper limit on the chainring size?
For the same top gear, a small-wheel frame needs a big chainring. If the chainring is to be a double, you need a derailleur and your frame has a braze-on to install the front derailleur. The height from the BB center to the bottom of the slot in the front mech braze on is (my measurement on a steel road bike, filter it accordingly) is 143 mm, which accommodates up to a 54 tooth big ring with the required 2 mm spacing between chainring and derailleur cage. For a commensurate small wheel/large chainring, It should scale up to perhaps 28 cm, to get road bike gearing.
I'm assuming your road wheels have a diameter ⅔ of a 700c, or 18 inches (no idea if this matches your frame, just a guess). The large chainring would be not in the neighborhood of 52 teeth, but 78 teeth. Your front braze on would have to be more like 210 millimeters up from BB center.
So if you are using derailleur gearing as is my initial assumption, you would need the braze-on located about 210 millimeters up from the BB center. The crank therefore needs to supply a big enough chainring.
I can't say this is all applicable, but as an engineer this is step one to understanding the question you've asked.
Unless your question is really, black or silver? For that I say "silver," since I always do.
Big holes in the frame are unusual in most of our experiences. I believe they can be engineered well. If you're saying they are a characteristic of a frame design that is successful in the field, fine with me.
Crankset recommendations need a few considerations in a frame where there is little familiarity. Engineering-wise, there are three basic considerations:
1. Are there any new constraints on the crankarm length? Since you said the BB height (I understand BB center height) is 28 cm, that 's fine, no major concern.
2. What is the upper limit on the chainring size?
For the same top gear, a small-wheel frame needs a big chainring. If the chainring is to be a double, you need a derailleur and your frame has a braze-on to install the front derailleur. The height from the BB center to the bottom of the slot in the front mech braze on is (my measurement on a steel road bike, filter it accordingly) is 143 mm, which accommodates up to a 54 tooth big ring with the required 2 mm spacing between chainring and derailleur cage. For a commensurate small wheel/large chainring, It should scale up to perhaps 28 cm, to get road bike gearing.
I'm assuming your road wheels have a diameter ⅔ of a 700c, or 18 inches (no idea if this matches your frame, just a guess). The large chainring would be not in the neighborhood of 52 teeth, but 78 teeth. Your front braze on would have to be more like 210 millimeters up from BB center.
So if you are using derailleur gearing as is my initial assumption, you would need the braze-on located about 210 millimeters up from the BB center. The crank therefore needs to supply a big enough chainring.
I can't say this is all applicable, but as an engineer this is step one to understanding the question you've asked.
Unless your question is really, black or silver? For that I say "silver," since I always do.
Last edited by Abu Mahendra; 06-30-18 at 08:08 AM.
06-30-18, 08:32 AM
#22
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I clarified in post #1 8 that the thread, posted originally on the Vintage & Classic channel, was about aesthetics, not mechanical limitations, compatibility or gearing.
If it wasn't about mechanics, why did you allow the moderator to move it to Mechanics?
06-30-18, 08:40 AM
#23
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Thread Starter
I take your point, but I think you should have made such a basic clarification in post #1 . Given that you didn't and I responded without reading the whole thread, I think my response was reasonable.
If it wasn't about mechanics, why did you allow the moderator to move it to Mechanics?
If it wasn't about mechanics, why did you allow the moderator to move it to Mechanics?
06-30-18, 08:52 AM
#24
Banned
Money no issue?
Compass Cycles Rene Herse classic Reproductions https://www.compasscycle.com/product...onents/cranks/
but no 60t chainrings
Compass Cycles Rene Herse classic Reproductions https://www.compasscycle.com/product...onents/cranks/
but no 60t chainrings
06-30-18, 05:26 PM
#25
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Thread Starter
Money no issue?
Compass Cycles Rene Herse classic Reproductions https://www.compasscycle.com/product...onents/cranks/
but no 60t chainrings
Compass Cycles Rene Herse classic Reproductions https://www.compasscycle.com/product...onents/cranks/
but no 60t chainrings