Back wheel alignment
09-16-18, 08:27 PM
#1
Andy
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Back wheel alignment
I’ve only had my new ride for a few days now, riding it religiously 5-8 miles a day with an occasional jump off a curb (24” Stolen Saint). I put the bike together myself but cant get the back wheel aligned perfectly. Nothing rubs on either side but there is probably a 3mm differemce from one side to the other. I feel its probably ok but my OCD is driving me nuts. The wheel seems true and has no issue riding, any insight would be nice and if I just need to chill out lemme know. CHEERS!!
09-16-18, 09:41 PM
#2
Mechanic/Tourist
You say it "seems true" but also say there is a 3mm side-to-side difference. It's on or the other. The rim could be physically bent or it could be you just are not using proper truing technique. Is there a bike co-op near you? In-person help is usually best. if not Google "true bike wheel" and study written guides first (Parktool.com and Sheldonbrown.com are generally well-regarded). Check out videos if you wish, but many are incomplete or inaccurate.
09-16-18, 10:29 PM
#3
Andy
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You say it "seems true" but also say there is a 3mm side-to-side difference. It's on or the other. The rim could be physically bent or it could be you just are not using proper truing technique. Is there a bike co-op near you? In-person help is usually best. if not Google "true bike wheel" and study written guides first (Parktool.com and Sheldonbrown.com are generally well-regarded). Check out videos if you wish, but many are incomplete or inaccurate.
09-16-18, 11:15 PM
#4
Senior Member
It's not really an issue of being defective. Most bikes require some wheel truing on assembly--this is part of the value of buying a bike that is professionally assmebled, or from a brand that does more comprehensive preassembly before shipping to consumers, like Canyon. Minor truing like this should be approximately 5-15 minutes of labor for most bike shops--labor rates of course varying by region and shop. If you'd like to do the work yourself, all you physically need is a spoke wrench that fits the nipples, although a truing stand makes things easier. https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair...and-rim-truing is a good, perhaps excessively thorough, guide. If it is not causing problems it is probably not the biggest deal considering the rather significant pad clearance typical on most U brakes.
09-17-18, 07:26 AM
#5
Andy
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I think at this point I’m just going to ride as-is and worry about it if anything changes. Nothing rub’s or makes noise, bike is cofortable (for a 24”) and brakes work well. It could be my wheel alignment technique is not perfect in the first place but like I said, I’ll ride it until something changes!! Thanks for the help!!
09-17-18, 07:29 AM
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That bike appears to be a single-speed with nutted rear axle and horizontal dropouts, so the rear wheel alignment (and chain tension, which should be "no tension") will be partly determined by the installer. Perhaps you should look up some instructions or videos on how to do it properly, or ask at the shop. Again, the chain should never be tight, it should be able to move about a quarter-inch up and down.
09-17-18, 07:48 AM
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That bike appears to be a single-speed with nutted rear axle and horizontal dropouts, so the rear wheel alignment (and chain tension, which should be "no tension") will be partly determined by the installer. Perhaps you should look up some instructions or videos on how to do it properly, or ask at the shop. Again, the chain should never be tight, it should be able to move about a quarter-inch up and down.
It's hard to tighten the drive side dropout because the axle wants to walk forward. Try tightening the nut on the left side of the axle first. Then you can hold the wheel midway between the dropouts while you tighten the drive side.
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09-17-18, 08:18 AM
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"True" and "out of dish" or not centered are two different things. A wheel can be perfectly true, yet not have the rim centered between the locknuts. More common on derailer gear wheels, but can happen to any wheel. Try flipping it over in the frame. If flipping the wheel makes the tighter gap change side, then the wheel isn't dished right.
Or spacers/washers haven't gone on right by the axle nuts.
It's an easy enough fix. but re-dishing needs some skill or self-control to avoid messing things up more.
Or spacers/washers haven't gone on right by the axle nuts.
It's an easy enough fix. but re-dishing needs some skill or self-control to avoid messing things up more.
09-17-18, 01:54 PM
#9
Andy
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GREAT SUCCESS!!! It was my
own doing. After reading and watching then applying different pieces of sound advice and solid knowledge from the interent and you folks on here, all is well and the back wheel is aligned and even!! For some reason I wanted to tighten both sides at once with 2 sockets, apparently that was not working. Found a minor trick of tightening the drive side first and then the opposite after. Chain tension is good with just about 1/2 inch of play. CHEERS guys!!!!
own doing. After reading and watching then applying different pieces of sound advice and solid knowledge from the interent and you folks on here, all is well and the back wheel is aligned and even!! For some reason I wanted to tighten both sides at once with 2 sockets, apparently that was not working. Found a minor trick of tightening the drive side first and then the opposite after. Chain tension is good with just about 1/2 inch of play. CHEERS guys!!!!
