Getting the Bridgestone dialed in. Any more suggestions?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Getting the Bridgestone dialed in. Any more suggestions?
Was able to get a few moments to myself and take the Bridgestone out for a short ride again. It's a 1987 300 sport touring. I know it's not very far up on the food chain but this bike really puts a smile on my face. In the end I think that's what it's all about. I fiddled with the bar height and seat position and it really felt nice. The bike just glides along and is so much more comfortable than my 1971 Raleigh grand prix. This pic does not show the new seat or bar heights and position.
Likes For Glennr134:
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 3,449
Mentioned: 33 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 874 Post(s)
Liked 2,291 Times
in
1,280 Posts
Your bike is great. It doesn't matter about the level of of that model if it makes you smile then you're on the right bike. A couple of suggestions though , maybe try the brake cables behind the handlebars, and some toe clips to stabilize your feet. I don't know if you have a bike stand , but they are very helpful in tweaking or maintaining your bike. Just keep on pedaling and smiling , that's what it is about. Joe joesvintageroadbikes.wordpress
#3
señor miembro
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 6,625
Bikes: '70s - '80s Campagnolo
Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3889 Post(s)
Liked 6,488 Times
in
3,211 Posts
Yes, I'd go with clips and leather straps, remove the chainring guard, tip up the saddle nose, center the tire labels over the valve stems, and shorten the rear derailleur housing.
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Your bike is great. It doesn't matter about the level of of that model if it makes you smile then you're on the right bike. A couple of suggestions though , maybe try the brake cables behind the handlebars, and some toe clips to stabilize your feet. I don't know if you have a bike stand , but they are very helpful in tweaking or maintaining your bike. Just keep on pedaling and smiling , that's what it is about. Joe joesvintageroadbikes.wordpress
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thank you, yes I already tipped the seat up since this picture was taken. Did not think of centering the tire labels. Great idea. What do you mean by shortening the rear derailleur housing? Chain ring guards are they in the same category as dork disks?
#6
señor miembro
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 6,625
Bikes: '70s - '80s Campagnolo
Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3889 Post(s)
Liked 6,488 Times
in
3,211 Posts
Looks too long. Let's say it's 40cm. Make it 25cm. That's "shorter."
It will still work if it's 10cm longer. But there's an optimum length that works, isn't too long, and looks best. The only way to determine that length is to test fit it.
There are different ways to do that, too. I have several lengths of spares I use. But you can do it with the housing already in place. Just remove the cable...
It will still work if it's 10cm longer. But there's an optimum length that works, isn't too long, and looks best. The only way to determine that length is to test fit it.
There are different ways to do that, too. I have several lengths of spares I use. But you can do it with the housing already in place. Just remove the cable...
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 833
Bikes: '68 Raleigh Suberbe, '92 (German) Centurion Equipe, '85 Schwinn Peloton, 1983ish Zunow Road Racer project, '69 Squanch Super Tourer, 1980 Bianchi Super Corsa, '82 Austro-Daimler Vent Noir, '89 Miyata 914 project, 1982ish Bianchi Rallye
Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 294 Post(s)
Liked 9 Times
in
9 Posts
Pretty bike! Striking colors, I like it.
I actually dig the chainring guard - - is it Sugino? Very Practical. I think Campagnolo made a similar aluminum for cyclocross racing.
The rear housing near the rear derailleur is a bit long and might affect shifting crispness, but, more importantly, it looks funny . You always want the shortest housing you can get away with without causing trouble (too sharp bends, pulling cable when turning bars, etc.). Try removing 2-3 inches.
Thanks for the pics!
I actually dig the chainring guard - - is it Sugino? Very Practical. I think Campagnolo made a similar aluminum for cyclocross racing.
The rear housing near the rear derailleur is a bit long and might affect shifting crispness, but, more importantly, it looks funny . You always want the shortest housing you can get away with without causing trouble (too sharp bends, pulling cable when turning bars, etc.). Try removing 2-3 inches.
Thanks for the pics!
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Looks too long. Let's say it's 40cm. Make it 25cm. That's "shorter."
It will still work if it's 10cm longer. But there's an optimum length that works, isn't too long, and looks best. The only way to determine that length is to test fit it.
There are different ways to do that, too. I have several lengths of spares I use. But you can do it with the housing already in place. Just remove the cable...
It will still work if it's 10cm longer. But there's an optimum length that works, isn't too long, and looks best. The only way to determine that length is to test fit it.
There are different ways to do that, too. I have several lengths of spares I use. But you can do it with the housing already in place. Just remove the cable...
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Pretty bike! Striking colors, I like it.
I actually dig the chainring guard - - is it Sugino? Very Practical. I think Campagnolo made a similar aluminum for cyclocross racing.
The rear housing near the rear derailleur is a bit long and might affect shifting crispness, but, more importantly, it looks funny . You always want the shortest housing you can get away with without causing trouble (too sharp bends, pulling cable when turning bars, etc.). Try removing 2-3 inches.
Thanks for the pics!
I actually dig the chainring guard - - is it Sugino? Very Practical. I think Campagnolo made a similar aluminum for cyclocross racing.
The rear housing near the rear derailleur is a bit long and might affect shifting crispness, but, more importantly, it looks funny . You always want the shortest housing you can get away with without causing trouble (too sharp bends, pulling cable when turning bars, etc.). Try removing 2-3 inches.
Thanks for the pics!
#10
Optically Corrected
Perhaps some premium rubber? A pair of Continental GP 4000s2’s in 28mm would work well...
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Seattle WA
Posts: 2,841
Bikes: 2009 Handsome Devil, 1987 Trek 520 Cirrus, 1978 Motobecane Grand Touring, 1987 Nishiki Cresta GT, 1989 Specialized Allez Former bikes; 1986 Miyata Trail Runner, 1979 Miyata 912, 2011 VO Rando, 1999 Cannondale R800, 1986 Schwinn Passage
Mentioned: 72 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 796 Post(s)
Liked 522 Times
in
367 Posts
I give you a counter to the toe clips and straps personally I like my foot to be free to move around a bit and have equipped most of my rides with MKS Sneaker (RMX) platform pedals, they have some nubs that help with grip but you can still move your foot around if yon need to change positions. I would also op for some plush rubber as wide as the frame can take - looks like 32s might fit or at least 28s YMMV
The most important thing is to continue to ride and smile.
The most important thing is to continue to ride and smile.
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Fairplay Co
Posts: 9,523
Bikes: Current 79 Nishiki Custum Sport, Jeunet 620, notable previous bikes P.K. Ripper loop tail, Kawahara Laser Lite, Paramount Track full chrome, Raliegh Internatioanl, Motobecan Super Mirage. 59 Crown royak 3 speed
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 790 Post(s)
Liked 1,769 Times
in
635 Posts
As for the cables maybe change the housing from the RD to the frame to a bit shorter shifter specific housing. As for pedals maybe some nice MKS half clips in your size added to the fairly nice pedals on the bike.
#14
Senior Member
Thread Starter
The pedals are SR - SP100BL's I found at a yard sale very cheap.
#15
Senior Member
Thread Starter
The bike had a badly bent rear rim and derailleur drop out when I found it out for trash while working. I replaced the rims with sun cr18 hoops built up on Normandy high flange hubs I had. Black stainless steel spokes finished them up. I used Sheldon Browns page to lace them up. I replaced the drivetrain with shamano 600 and am very pleased with how they function.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
onehighlander
Bicycle Mechanics
38
01-01-13 11:43 AM
ewmyers
Classic & Vintage
14
07-08-10 03:24 PM