View Poll Results: What would you pick?
Fulcrum Racing 3 - 24/30mm Alu - 1555g at $400 via Chain Reaction
2
16.67%
Yoeleo SAT C50 PRO - 50mm Carbon - 1570g at $860 via Yoeleo
0
0%
Profile Design 58/twentyfour - 58mm Carbon - 1632g at $1199 via Competitive Cyclist
0
0%
Reynolds Assault/Strike - 42/62mm Carbon - 1636~g at $1199 via Jenson
5
41.67%
None of these! (Please suggest something else?)
5
41.67%
Voters: 12. You may not vote on this poll
Poll: which wheelset would you choose as a replacement (Under $1200)
#1
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Poll: which wheelset would you choose as a replacement (Under $1200)
Hey Guys,
So I may be in the market for some new wheels sooner than I had expected (see this thread where I explain the situation with my current wheels: https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-m...ce-normal.html)
In the event that my current Mercury M5's will not be replaced by warranty, I am getting ready to pull the trigger on a replacement set. I've narrowed it down to the sets listed in the poll above and would love your feedback as to which you'd choose. Obviously, please suggest alternatives if you have them .
Price range is $400-1200~ and I'd prefer to have deeper carbon clinchers but, given my poor experience with my Mercury's, would be open to something more bombproof like the fulcrums. Haven't really thought about custom building as I don't really know where to start and the price for online custom builds appears to be higher than buying stock. Edit: I plan to use the wheels for training and racing this season where I'll be starting my first year as a Cat 4. (FWIW, nothing too hardcore but I've been warned about the risk of crashes with the Cat 4 crowd)
Thanks in advance!
So I may be in the market for some new wheels sooner than I had expected (see this thread where I explain the situation with my current wheels: https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-m...ce-normal.html)
In the event that my current Mercury M5's will not be replaced by warranty, I am getting ready to pull the trigger on a replacement set. I've narrowed it down to the sets listed in the poll above and would love your feedback as to which you'd choose. Obviously, please suggest alternatives if you have them .
Price range is $400-1200~ and I'd prefer to have deeper carbon clinchers but, given my poor experience with my Mercury's, would be open to something more bombproof like the fulcrums. Haven't really thought about custom building as I don't really know where to start and the price for online custom builds appears to be higher than buying stock. Edit: I plan to use the wheels for training and racing this season where I'll be starting my first year as a Cat 4. (FWIW, nothing too hardcore but I've been warned about the risk of crashes with the Cat 4 crowd)
Thanks in advance!
Last edited by MattyMurdah; 11-12-17 at 10:59 AM.
#2
Non omnino gravis
Through ProWheelBuilder.com, Kinlin XR31T hoops (20mm inner width, and about as strong as you can get) with American Classic hubs, 24/24 Sapim X-Rays, alloy nipples, 1,460g for the set, $759. Changing hubs or spokes can change the price significantly-- just going to a "lesser" spoke would save at least $70. I didn't know how many spokes to go for (don't know your weight) but I've been on 24/24 with those hoops @200lbs for thousands of miles.
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Through ProWheelBuilder.com, Kinlin XR31T hoops (20mm inner width, and about as strong as you can get) with American Classic hubs, 24/24 Sapim X-Rays, alloy nipples, 1,460g for the set, $759. Changing hubs or spokes can change the price significantly-- just going to a "lesser" spoke would save at least $70. I didn't know how many spokes to go for (don't know your weight) but I've been on 24/24 with those hoops @200lbs for thousands of miles.
Though.. for a penalty of about 100grams I could snag the Fulcrum 3's and save $400. Don't know if this is totally logical but part of me feels spending $800~ for shallow rims may not be worth it when that price point gets me into the deep section carbon realm. (Assuming I can get a pair that hold up to normal braking, obviously.)
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Awesome - what did you set yours up with for spoke count F vs R? I am fairly light (135lbs) and was thinking 20/24 with Front radial and Rear 2x whatever that means.
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Thanks for the info. I just plugged in the Kinlin XR-200 and holy crap! Drops the weight to 1238g for the set and actually shaves off a few dollars. Have ou heard anything about that rim in comparison?
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Hed Ardennes Plus. I've been as heavy as 240 on them (max recommended 225), and never even heard a creak out of them.
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35mm deep, 18mm bsw FSE carbon wheelset at $1045 and 1305gm with a 2yr, 50% off rims crash replacement policy seems pretty tasty.
EVO 35C Carbon Fiber Clincher Road Wheelset - FSE.bike
EVO 35C Carbon Fiber Clincher Road Wheelset - FSE.bike
#12
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Through ProWheelBuilder.com, Kinlin XR31T hoops (20mm inner width, and about as strong as you can get) with American Classic hubs, 24/24 Sapim X-Rays, alloy nipples, 1,460g for the set, $759. Changing hubs or spokes can change the price significantly-- just going to a "lesser" spoke would save at least $70. I didn't know how many spokes to go for (don't know your weight) but I've been on 24/24 with those hoops @200lbs for thousands of miles.
I know the owner Richard and was at his shop this past Monday.
He is rebuilding a hub for me and is the only person in Atlanta I trust with my wheels.
-Tim-
Last edited by TimothyH; 11-12-17 at 04:49 PM.
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I'm quite a bit heavier than you and ride the M5s, as does my kid. Then he races two more M5Ts and some cross ones (while getting free another brand - he races the M5Ts).
Typically these are well sourced Taiwan or Chinese rims (lately) and they have held up real well for us. In wet - all carbon rims get beat up.
Typically these are well sourced Taiwan or Chinese rims (lately) and they have held up real well for us. In wet - all carbon rims get beat up.
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I'm quite a bit heavier than you and ride the M5s, as does my kid. Then he races two more M5Ts and some cross ones (while getting free another brand - he races the M5Ts).
Typically these are well sourced Taiwan or Chinese rims (lately) and they have held up real well for us. In wet - all carbon rims get beat up.
Typically these are well sourced Taiwan or Chinese rims (lately) and they have held up real well for us. In wet - all carbon rims get beat up.
Would be curious to know if this is a one-off thing. Can't imagine I'm doing anything that different than you in terms of use, especially considering I have such low miles on mine (and have never ridden mine in the wet).
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Interesting - and you both use the stock Mercury pads? Do any of your brake tracks look like mine does?
Would be curious to know if this is a one-off thing. Can't imagine I'm doing anything that different than you in terms of use, especially considering I have such low miles on mine (and have never ridden mine in the wet).
Would be curious to know if this is a one-off thing. Can't imagine I'm doing anything that different than you in terms of use, especially considering I have such low miles on mine (and have never ridden mine in the wet).
We had a set M5T about 4 years that were perfect - until rain raced. The clinchers have different brake material in the track that the tubulars. A built up brake track is common to carbon, which is a better fit for tubulars IMO.
I use the same model pads I got from Mercury originally. But I bought a bunch elsewhere. On the M5C they squeak, I don't like them. Son moved to SwissStop and those work well (and not warranty).
I'm curious what Mercury says. You did contact them - correct?
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My brake traces look unused (~2,000 miles for me, ~10,000 for kid). We just went to clinchers about 2 years ago (I buy for me and racing/training son).
We had a set M5T about 4 years that were perfect - until rain raced. The clinchers have different brake material in the track that the tubulars. A built up brake track is common to carbon, which is a better fit for tubulars IMO.
I use the same model pads I got from Mercury originally. But I bought a bunch elsewhere. On the M5C they squeak, I don't like them. Son moved to SwissStop and those work well (and not warranty).
I'm curious what Mercury says. You did contact them - correct?
We had a set M5T about 4 years that were perfect - until rain raced. The clinchers have different brake material in the track that the tubulars. A built up brake track is common to carbon, which is a better fit for tubulars IMO.
I use the same model pads I got from Mercury originally. But I bought a bunch elsewhere. On the M5C they squeak, I don't like them. Son moved to SwissStop and those work well (and not warranty).
I'm curious what Mercury says. You did contact them - correct?
The only feedback I've gotten so far is they said it sounds like a rock got stuck in the brake pad which I 100% know isn't the issue. Really hoping they help me out with this considering I recommended the M5's to two friends and they both bought them.
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Interesting. Yeah I'm in contact with Mercury but through Competitive Cyclist. I need to get them the serial # off the inside of the rim once I get home from work and then will hopefully have some good news this week.
The only feedback I've gotten so far is they said it sounds like a rock got stuck in the brake pad which I 100% know isn't the issue. Really hoping they help me out with this considering I recommended the M5's to two friends and they both bought them.
The only feedback I've gotten so far is they said it sounds like a rock got stuck in the brake pad which I 100% know isn't the issue. Really hoping they help me out with this considering I recommended the M5's to two friends and they both bought them.
There are many parts made in Taiwan and China - really bad, and really good stuff.
I think Mercury sources pretty well. They have wheel builders on site in Ogden UT, on salary who sign each wheel and build to .001 trueness. I value the lacing and the build, but yea - that brake track is an issue.
So while the carbon may not be ENVE or ax-lightness level (nobody is ax level), they build high value stuff they are gaining market share. Some of their new stuff may be a whole different level. But that does not solve your issue.