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Do Trek bikes run small? Comparing their size chart to others'

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Do Trek bikes run small? Comparing their size chart to others'

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Old 06-13-20, 10:06 PM
  #26  
Cyclist0108
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I weighed my 24 oz Camelback water bottle when it was full. It was almost two pounds. I've never detected a difference in my ability to climb even a really steep hill with a full vs. empty set of two water bottles.

Trek sizes based on the effective top tube length (rounded to the whole number). I'm 5'9" with sort legs. I fit a 54 cm Domane.
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Old 06-13-20, 11:07 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by wgscott
I weighed my 24 oz Camelback water bottle when it was full. It was almost two pounds. I've never detected a difference in my ability to climb even a really steep hill with a full vs. empty set of two water bottles.

Trek sizes based on the effective top tube length (rounded to the whole number). I'm 5'9" with sort legs. I fit a 54 cm Domane.
Weight is most noticeable when accelerating and it has to be in comparison to other riders. I have ridden many times with the same group of riders using a Madone 9 and Domane. I work a little harder when I need to jump. I can really feel it at the end of a ride. Context makes a difference. With my 808 Zipps on my track bike, it was around about what my Madone weighs. In that context however, weight matters less due to the dynamics of track riding.

Last edited by colnago62; 06-14-20 at 12:44 AM.
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Old 06-14-20, 09:00 PM
  #28  
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I am 6'2" and ride a 60 cm Domane and a 58 cm Specialized Roubaix. They are set up the same and both fit good. I vacillated between the 58 and 60 Domane and was never able to get my hands on the 60 cm to try before hand which was a drawback. A Trek dealer can bring one into the shop if you show a strong interest.
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Old 06-15-20, 11:58 AM
  #29  
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I’m 5’ 9-1/2” tall with a 32” inseam and my 2018 Domane ALR 5, size 56cm, fits really well with all stock parts. All it needed was the seat height set. I’ve never had any fit-related issues.
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Old 06-15-20, 02:50 PM
  #30  
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I didn't read every post, but if it hasn't been said, stack and reach tell most of the fit story. Pay no attention to the frame size numbers.

The seat tube angle helps with seletion of the seat post setback.

I'm riding a 48cm Colnago C-RS that's a bit taller and longer than my old 51cm LOOK. The size number is just the length of the seat tube.
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Old 06-15-20, 08:00 PM
  #31  
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A CAAD10 and a Domane are at two opposite ends of the road geometry scale. The CAAD10 is long and low; the Domane is high and short. A Domane is Treks H3 fit, the CAAD10 would be the H1 fit. To get as low as you are on the CAAD10, you'd need to buy a Domane 54cm and put a 30mm longer stem on it.

https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/c...sl-2020-54-cm/


The Emonda is H2 fit, the Madone is H1.5 fit. I think you can special order a Domane or Emonda in H1 fit, but it's for the top end frame. The only thing mass market that is as low as a CAAD10 is a Specialized Allez Sprint.
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Old 06-15-20, 09:25 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by jfranci3
A CAAD10 and a Domane are at two opposite ends of the road geometry scale. The CAAD10 is long and low; the Domane is high and short. A Domane is Treks H3 fit, the CAAD10 would be the H1 fit. To get as low as you are on the CAAD10, you'd need to buy a Domane 54cm and put a 30mm longer stem on it.

https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/c...sl-2020-54-cm/


The Emonda is H2 fit, the Madone is H1.5 fit. I think you can special order a Domane or Emonda in H1 fit, but it's for the top end frame. The only thing mass market that is as low as a CAAD10 is a Specialized Allez Sprint.
^^this is good to know. I had thought that an endurance type frame would make more sense, since I have the stem almost at the top of the steerer tube (fitter just put one little spacer above the stem and left the remaining below). My stem is a straight one that came with the bike (not pointed up etc, straight out). I had no idea there was such a discrepancy. I thought an endurance type frame would allow me to lose a couple spacers but get the same fit. Thanks for the link, it was eye opening. I've been riding this same position for about 10,000 miles and feel great/no need to change anything position wise.
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Old 06-16-20, 06:35 AM
  #33  
PoorInRichfield
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For those of you who are not familiar with Treks, the image below is one of the few images I could find that explains their H1, H2, and (rare) H3 frame geometry designations. In my opinion, Trek does a really poor job of marketing and explaining the differences between the "H's". Heck, they don't even make it obvious when you're buying a bike as to which geometry the bike has... and even worse, I see they use the H1, H2, etc. on their product names like tires to confuse everyone completely.

For example, at one time you could order a Domane frameset with a H1 fit which is an aggressive, low head tube, racer-like fit. However, you couldn't buy a complete Domane in an H1 model (and I think that is still the case). As such, buyers coming from other brands may be surprised to find that a bike in the same size frame as what they're used to has a radically taller head tube because the Domane is an "Endurance Fit" (H2).

Heck, I hope I didn't screw-up my explanation as it's still not totally clear to me

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Old 02-21-22, 08:07 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by PoorInRichfield
I think you're right in that Trek's size chart for the new Domane is very, very odd to darn right wrong.

I own a 2020 Domane SL7. I'm 6'1" tall with a 33" inseam and ride a 58cm frame. What I find absolutely crazy is that with the stock seat post, I had the seat as far down as it could possibly go and that barely worked for me! I've never had that problem on a 58cm frame before. What makes that even more ridiculous is that according to the size chart, I should be riding a 60cm frame?!?! If I had purchased a 60cm frame the seat post wouldn't work at all. I had my LBS swap-out the seat post that came on the bike with the shorter model so now I at least have some vertical adjustability in the post.

Beware that the Domane has an "endurance fit" which makes them a little odd compared to other race bikes. What that typically means is that the head tube (vertical tube the fork goes into) is much taller on the Domane than it is on race bikes to give the rider a more comfortable, up-right position. I had a 58cm Trek Boone which does not have the endurance fit and compared it to my old 56cm Domane and found the head tube was the same height on both bikes (i.e., the 56cm Domane head tube was really tall.)

If you have Trek dealer near by, I'd call them to find out if they have any Domanes in stock so you can see for yourself if the 58cm will work for you. I was just at 2 bike stores yesterday and it's crazy... the showroom floors were almost completely empty due to a combination of high demand and an inability to get new bikes in-stock from Trek.

Sizing issues aside, I love my new Domane... it's a really well made, well thought-out endurance machine.

I have 2 friends who recently purchased Domane and they both said exactly the same thing.
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Old 02-22-22, 07:44 AM
  #35  
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I bought my Domane from a Trek store and was told that the endurance bikes ran "a little larger". Don't kow if its true but I have a 58 in an SLR6 as well as an old 58 2.3. Size difference is noticeable but not obvious ...all in the top tube and upright position. I used to be 6'2" but when they fixed my broke neck they shrunk me by about 1/4 inch or more. My inseam is about 34.5 so I am kind of i between. That being said a 58 cm Domane is money for me. My 60 cm lightspeed also fits.

I doubt if I will ever mess with the decoupler very much on my SLR but I wanted "the best" that I could afford. There are a few other bells and whistles on the SLR's as well. It was worth it to me.
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Old 02-22-22, 09:38 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by PoorInRichfield
For those of you who are not familiar with Treks, the image below is one of the few images I could find that explains their H1, H2, and (rare) H3 frame geometry designations. In my opinion, Trek does a really poor job of marketing and explaining the differences between the "H's". Heck, they don't even make it obvious when you're buying a bike as to which geometry the bike has... and even worse, I see they use the H1, H2, etc. on their product names like tires to confuse everyone completely.

For example, at one time you could order a Domane frameset with a H1 fit which is an aggressive, low head tube, racer-like fit. However, you couldn't buy a complete Domane in an H1 model (and I think that is still the case). As such, buyers coming from other brands may be surprised to find that a bike in the same size frame as what they're used to has a radically taller head tube because the Domane is an "Endurance Fit" (H2).

Heck, I hope I didn't screw-up my explanation as it's still not totally clear to me

Trek doesn't actually use all of these anymore on terms of mass market As of 2021, The Emonda and Madone use their race for (H1.5) and the domanes use their endurance fit.
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Old 02-22-22, 05:54 PM
  #37  
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Apparently very few people understand that bike fit is dictated by the stack and reach. What some company calls each size is meaningless. The seat tube angle tells you what seat post offset may be needed. I know what stack and reach I need and can find my size in a minute.
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Old 02-22-22, 06:15 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by DaveSSS
Apparently very few people understand that bike fit is dictated by the stack and reach. What some company calls each size is meaningless. The seat tube angle tells you what seat post offset may be needed. I know what stack and reach I need and can find my size in a minute.
If you say so. I've been riding for a pretty long time and until recently had never heard of stack and only vaguely was concerned with reach. FWIW I can find my size in about a minute too. 58 or 60 both work and I sit on it and ride around a bit unless its a bare frame and I'm building it. Then I make minor adjustments. Been working pretty good since the 80s : )
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Old 02-22-22, 06:58 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Rdmonster69
If you say so. I've been riding for a pretty long time and until recently had never heard of stack and only vaguely was concerned with reach. FWIW I can find my size in about a minute too. 58 or 60 both work and I sit on it and ride around a bit unless its a bare frame and I'm building it. Then I make minor adjustments. Been working pretty good since the 80s : )
Great response affirming my statement. The size numbers and/or letters mean nothing today. I was away from cycling when stack and reach values were recognized as the proper size indicators, but as a mechanical engineer, it was obvious to me what they meant, when I returned in 2018. The only small drawback is that reach can only be compared at one stack height. If you're comparing two frames and one has a 20mm shorter stack, then assume that 20mm of spacer will be added to that frame and subtract 6mm from the reach of the smaller frame. Then compare the reach values.
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