JimiMimni

Get a scale and measure at least 2x per week, at the same time (for example wake up, pee, weigh) and keep tabs on your weight. If you see the number rising for longer than a week, you're eating too much (assuming you're not trying to gain weight.). Conversely, if you see the number dropping, you're not eating enough, again assuming you're not trying to lose weight.

gycho77

I should definitely try that method.
Thank you

carleton

The key is to buy a quality scale.

The $5 digital scales at Walmart will not work. Try them. If you stand on them 3 times in a row and get 3 different values, then they are crap. A good scale (like Taylor) should give you the same value every time. A good scale will cost around $25 or more. I know this sounds silly, but there are a lot of scales out there that are crap and can be frustrating to use.

I actually picked up a doctor's office scale off of craigslist for pretty cheap. It's even more reliable than the nicer digital scales. But, it takes up lots of space. I like being able to leave the slider in place and then weighing myself again and moving the slider back a bit every now and then (apparently not often enough )

As Jimi says, weigh in the morning after using the bathroom and before you drink any water. Nude or with just underwear on (for obvious reasons...a full set of clothing can weigh a couple of lbs). My scales have either been in my bedroom or bathroom. This is your starting state every day. If you weigh yourself throughout the day, you will see that you can gain up to 5lbs of food and water.

Use your favorite fitness tracking app to save the values. The Apple Health app is good for this and it comes free with iOS 8 and above.

You'll find that salt will have an unexpectedly huge impact on how much you weigh. We need salt for electrolytes and whatnot. Water binds with salt. Water is heavy. If you eat a lot of salty foods, then you may gain a bunch of water retention weight all of a sudden.

I freaked out once when I went on a business trip for a week and was resigned to eating in restaurants the whole time. Even though I ate reasonable portions, I came back 7lbs heavier. A guy here on BF informed me that it was just water weight from all of the salt in restaurant food and that it would go away in a few days. And it did.

BTW, don't obsess about weight. It's just one of the many factors that make a good racer.

carleton

PS: DO NOT get nude and try out scales in Walmart to see if they show the same value every time. This is not a good idea. TRUST ME. I'm speaking from experience

gycho77

Are you a genius?
How did you know that I don't have a scale lol
I was planning to order it from amazon and forgot about craigslist.
I should check out craigslist first.
Thanks

haha
Really funny

taras0000

Also, when at the beach, make sure that you put the potato in the FRONT of your Speedo.

gtrob

Haven't been on in a bit and like where this thread is going!

I will echo the cooking sentiment, I don't think there is better advice to give to anyone who cares even slightly about performance/weight/fitness/life. Not only do you have full control of ingredients and portions, but it all tastes better, and is better for you. You naturally eat healthier, with less salt, fat, and all the other things you don't even realize are in your food. Plus chicks love it.

And buy a blender. One of those cheap single cup ones, and fill your freezer with frozen berries. A scoop of whey and you have ~30gr protein and 2+ servings of fruit in about 20 seconds of prep, perfect pre/post workout you can literally make on your way out the door.

700wheel

I have a copy of the USDA "Nutritive Value of Foods" which I use often when modifying my diet – sometime I find when a particular food is hyped this is one of the first places I check.

This publication can be found here:
https://www.ars.usda.gov/SP2UserFiles.../hg72_2002.pdf

Regulatori

I'm picking up a set of rollers and colder weather gear for some off season training and want to hit the beginner classes next season at our local velodrome.

My current bike setup is in my signature (or Bianchi Pista - Pedal Room ) Is there anything major I might want to change? I'm currently running a 47t front and have access from 14-18t rears (I know I'll only be using the low cogs). Yeah, I know the color scheme may not be for everyone but from just a setup standpoint, is there is anything I might want to pick up over winter?

Only thing I can think of is I'll try to find a used 48t chainring at a local shop and possibly look at some more track orientated tires, different bar tape (mine is a bit slippery), and get my wheels trued.

Anything else I may want to change or do you think this is a great setup for beginner class (I would be taking classes first of course before entering any real races).

Thanks a lot. Think I did pretty good...I got the bike for a screaming deal on craigslists, bought most of the upgrades used, off craigslist, ebay, etc... and probably have $500 total in the bike (including the bike purchase).

Thanks.

TrackMonkey7

Wow, that's a really handsome bike and for a great price!

For someone starting out racing track, that bike is just fine. For your first few race days, you probably won't want or need much more than a 47/48x15 but in the future you'll want some chainrings.

Depending on what your home track is like, you might want some bar tape with more cushion.

carleton

Hi, and welcome to the sport!

1) Have a look at this thread. It should answer most questions you'll have as a new racer: https://www.bikeforums.net/track-cycl...ack-racer.html Pay attention to the parts about beginner gearing and tools you'll need.

2) The "bars on the front tire" look is great for photos on the internet...but awfully uncomfortable (for most people) for actual training and racing. I'd suggest being prepared to raise them.


3) I'd suggest looking into getting a quill to threadless stem adapter so you can use modern stems. If you are a new racer, chances are you will spend time fiddling with your fit. Quill stems severely limit your fit options. Switching stems is a pain. You have to unwrap your bars (and maybe buy new grip tape) to put on a new stem. Alternate stems are expensive and hard to find. If you need a longer/shorter stem, you can't just grab one from a local shop or craigslist. Hell, it was hard to do that when NJS stuff was popular. It's even harder now.

4) The Shimano 7401 pedals are old...back when Shimano first got into making clipless pedals. LOOK made them for Shimano. If I remember correctly, the tension on these is very light. Look into getting some modern Shimano road pedals for like $35 new.

5) Unless your tires are hardened with age, they are fine. If they are grippy then they are fine.

6) Not sure why you have so many zip ties under your saddle. But, if it is not working properly, then replace it. If it falls off while you are on the track while you are riding (and I've seen this happen several times) then you have a BIG problem on your hands.

7) Nobody cares how your bike looks when training/racing. We only care that it is in good working order.


Understand that what's "good" on the street fixie scene may not (and is probably not) good on the actual racing scene. It's like comparing the street import car scene to actual import car racing scene. Yes, there are some similarities, but they are more different than similar.

I've seen bikes like these (and other "FULL NJS" bikes...caged pedals and all) show up at beginner classes and if the racer sticks with the sport they ditch that stuff for modern gear after a few months. So, you can do it now, or do it later...but you are still gonna do it

700wheel

Regulatori,
Always make sure your chain connector link is properly installed (hard to tell from your photos). I've seen riders lose chains which poses a danger to both you and other riders.

taras0000

YES! Always use the links with threaded link pins, or ones with a circlip. Do not use quicklinks/snap links on a fixed drivetrain. If using a circlip, make sure the closed end is leading the open end.

Regulatori

Totally agree about the bar tape. Probably go back to using Fizik. This stuff was more of an impulse buy but I find it gets really slippery in the wet.
There is a couple of used shops nearby that sell chainrings for cheap. I might pick up a 48 if I can find one for a good deal. I'm good for cogs thought.

Regulatori

1. Thanks for the link. Can't believe I missed that.

2. I'm a really wiry guy. I may raise them up but even for fun I'll get in the drops on a regular ride and go for a good 15-20 min and never have any discomfort. I'm 5'10 and around 155 but pretty flexible. Since I'm running a quill, I could always try to find drops that aren't so deep on craigslist.

3. Yeah, that was actually kind of a choice and I knew it would limit me. The regular fork was a unicrown/threadless and I ended up converting to threaded/quill for purely aesthetics. I did have a local shop do a quick fit on me and recommended a 90mm as a good start so I'll see how that goes. I do have my old parts still so I can convert back to threadless if I have to. What threaded to threadless adapter do you recommmend? Any in particular?

4. Yeah, the pedals are old but built like tanks. Triple loose bearings, lots of clearance. I have them on the lowest setting right now and they feel like my old 525's at a mid-high setting. @TejanoTrackie actually recommended me these pedals because he's been using them on his racing bikes for years. I put them on a higher setting at one point and felt like my cleats were going to rip out of my shoes. They might be ugly and heavy but they're surprisingly overbuilt. I might switch to the black Delta cleats for no float but I plan on keeping them.

5. Thanks. Yeah, the tires are new. I just wasn't sure if it's a good tire for concrete velodromes. Do you recommend going max psi on them?

6. hahaha....the zip ties only there to attach a rear carabiner. I then hook a Nalgene bottle to the carabiner when going on longer rides as sort of a poorman's rear bottle setup since the bike has no bottle mounts. All of that would be coming off soon as I hit the track because they last thing people need is garbage falling off a bike.

Thanks a lot for your help.
BTW...you into cars? I saw the car mention. I've had a LOT....bunch of Honda's with motor swaps/ITB's, Miata with a cage/coilovers, 240Z with a 3.1 stroker/triple 44 Mikuni's, a couple of old 911s (911SC and a 964 C2), etc.. Totally get your point though. I've driven a few purpose built track cars on the street and there is nothing fun about it.

JimiMimni

How do you prefer to write workouts? Coming from the road I write everything in watts and minutes. I'm gradually learning meters, laps, and gear inches.

Do you guys typically script everything? I.E. Race-Warm-up; 3x500m Flying efforts 92" w/5min recovery + 2x 20-lap @50kph 91" w/5min recovery (Just an example!) I know pretty roughly what I want to get accomplished with my training sessions, but I'm curious how others sort out their sessions.

Regulatori

Thanks, that is one I did know. You can kind of see it in this photo above the chainring to the left.
Bianchi Pista - Pedal Room

When installing, I imagine an octopus swimming ahead in the direction of chain travel....and with his tentacles dragging behind. If that makes sense.

gycho77

I am really sorry about keep asking questions....
But I'm having trouble with my broken chain tensioner.(Currently ignoring the tensioner, and training on a roller)
I used it once or twice, and broke the bolt....
I cannot take out the tensioner because of the screwed bolt(2nd picture).
Does anyone had this experience?
Tried WD-40 to remove the screw, but I failed
I am not using an another chain tensioner again

MarkWW

This is how I would fix that, assuming minimal bike tools. Bolt the wheel next to your bike. By that I mean bolt the left side of the wheel in the right side of the track end so the wheel is next to the bike. Basically all you want to do is immobilize the axle. Then take a wrench and try to turn the tensioner counter clock-wise until the screw end falls into the groove in the axle meant for the notched washer. That might give you enough purchase for the whole tensioner to slide off.

700wheel

If that does not work remove the axle then saw though the retainer (washer like) part. Then clean axle thoroughly and reinstall.

carleton

You don't need a chain tensioner when riding rollers. Nobody does (not even top sprinters) because you never put down any torque using rollers. You probably won't need one on the track.

Those types of tensioners are a pain in the butt when it comes to removing the wheel. I'd suggest not using it unless you actually pull a wheel during a standing start or something.

Chain tensioners solve a particular problem (pulling a wheel under high torque). You aren't a big rider. I don't think you'll have issues pulling wheels. Why bother with the headache of a tensioner?

Also, you don't need a tensioner to set your wheel in the dropouts. A lot of people think that's their purpose. It is not. You set the wheel, tighten the axle nuts, then snug the tensioner.



(You probably don't need one)

gycho77

I usually do not use chain tensioner, but I had trouble setting up my chain tension.
So I used it once, and I broke the bolt.....

gycho77

Thank you for your help but it did not worked.
Maybe I should just use the wheel as it is, and wait it loosen up by vibration

No!!!!!!
I will try that when the weather gets warmer.
I am currently working in the gym and on the roller.
So I think I don't have to do this right now.

Thank you

carleton

I assume that you tried to use the tensioner to set the tension of the chain as opposed to setting the tension with your hands. It's a common mistake.

Learn to do it with no tensioner and just using your hands, wrench, and bolts. You'll get it eventually. Tip: Get the wheel as close as you can, then set the left bolt first (mildly). Then push the wheel laterally, the tighten/loosen the chain as you set the right bolt. Go back and tighten the left one snugly, then the right.

Baby Puke

I like chain tensioners and have always used them. Not sure if they are the reason but I have never had a wheel slip, and I have a decent start. Even the finicky little NJS one's are fine, you just can't manhandle them or you will strip them instantly.