Ratspeed

I'm curious! How many of you have encountered extreme resistance from attempting to remove a nut for an AB/C (or similar) Sturmey Archer Brake Assembly?

I've checked the manual (linked from Sheldon Brown) for this unit, and I've seen several YouTube videos—none of which show any amount of difficulty in doing this. Yet mine seems to be extraordinarily tight! So much so, that I'm afraid if I apply more force with the wrench than I am, I could damage something!

Here's what I'm looking at. I have the opposite axle gripped by a table vise by the corresponding flat side of the axle:



This all seems to correspond perfectly with the exploded view in the manual:





There doesn't seem to be any corrosion, rusting or adhesives. I've applied a little WD-40, and still nothing. I can keep trying to twist it. I might buy a larger wrench; maybe a longer lever could apply the necessary force?

Also note, I am not trying to remove the gear hub itself at this point. I merely want to remove the brake assembly (on the opposite side) to surface, clean and lube it.

Any advice from anyone more experienced than me?

Ratspeed

I got it off. I just had to apply a TON of force to it. Was definitely way beyond the recommended torque. I'll make sure to apply a bit of ASC so it doesn't happen again. Time to clean up this baby. Not that much pad wear, either! No rust. Just needs a little attention and cleaning.

blinky

Reflecting back to the decade beginning with 1950 , I first had a Columbia 1x1 with coaster brake and then a Raleigh 1x3 with Sturmey Archer bar shifter and probably a Brooks saddle plus rim brakes - but maybe it had a drum brake , - and a front hub generator to power the front light - what has always impressed me is the technical ingenuity of that coaster brake - I recently did some online research of how a coaster brake works but, even after reading a technical discussion, it's hard to grasp what is happening inside that hub.

Glad to see that you were successful loosening that nut .