Quill Stem Questions
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Quill Stem Questions
I’m new to quill stems and had some questions. Thanks
1) When you tighten the top bolt is there a general torque spec? I have the Velo-Orange quill stem with removable faceplate. I didn’t notice a torque setting on the stem.
2) Also, for my understanding, if you overtighten does that damage/wear down the bearings like non-quill (e.g., top cap bolt just snug, whereas too tight or too loose not good).
3) For fit reasons, I may switch to something like the VO threadless stem adaptor and traditional stem(s). The bike (Rivendell) has a 1” threaded headset. Is it just a matter of removing the old one and putting a new one in, tightening to spec?
4) Whether the quill stem or the threadless stem adapter, how far down can I push the stem into the headset/head tube before tightening it? I know there is a minimal insertion limit but is there a maximum?
5) Bonus question and nothing to do with stems. When you put an aluminum seatpost (Thomson) into a steel frame (Riv with the seatpost bolt through the frame, no separate collar) do you grease the post? I initially had slip with the stock post and haven’t pulled it out yet to see if it’s greased. I was curious as to whether a fibre paste (with grit) would be good.
1) When you tighten the top bolt is there a general torque spec? I have the Velo-Orange quill stem with removable faceplate. I didn’t notice a torque setting on the stem.
2) Also, for my understanding, if you overtighten does that damage/wear down the bearings like non-quill (e.g., top cap bolt just snug, whereas too tight or too loose not good).
3) For fit reasons, I may switch to something like the VO threadless stem adaptor and traditional stem(s). The bike (Rivendell) has a 1” threaded headset. Is it just a matter of removing the old one and putting a new one in, tightening to spec?
4) Whether the quill stem or the threadless stem adapter, how far down can I push the stem into the headset/head tube before tightening it? I know there is a minimal insertion limit but is there a maximum?
5) Bonus question and nothing to do with stems. When you put an aluminum seatpost (Thomson) into a steel frame (Riv with the seatpost bolt through the frame, no separate collar) do you grease the post? I initially had slip with the stock post and haven’t pulled it out yet to see if it’s greased. I was curious as to whether a fibre paste (with grit) would be good.
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there's no torque spec for this
you want to imagine that you are drawing a wedge or a cone against the walls of the steerer tube
you want it good and snug but do not want to deform or distort the steerer tube.
I'd say 200-240 inch lbs just by guess but your educated "feel" as the bolt tightens is a better guide.
grease the lower stem, wedge, and bolt threads
/markp
you want to imagine that you are drawing a wedge or a cone against the walls of the steerer tube
you want it good and snug but do not want to deform or distort the steerer tube.
I'd say 200-240 inch lbs just by guess but your educated "feel" as the bolt tightens is a better guide.
grease the lower stem, wedge, and bolt threads
/markp
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I use to straddle the front wheel as I tightened quill stems. Every now and then as I tightened it I would hold the front wheel from moving with my legs and try turn the bars. If they moved the stem in the steerer tube, then I'd tighten the bolt some more till turning the bars wouldn't let the quill stem twist askew.
I think the big concern with over tightening the quill is that it will bulge the steerer tube. And that would be doubly bad if the quill was in the area of the top headset bearing. Which it shouldn't be if you don't go beyond max extension line from showing on the stem.
I think you can push it as far as you can. You'll probably hit the brake bolt before you got it too low to damage the bottom bearing. And that would only be if you had a obscenely tall stem that could make it to the bottom of the headtube/steerer tube.
I'd favor getting that threadless adapter. I used one with my '91 Paramount. It was much easier to change the pista type stems when I wanted to try out different length of reach to the bars/hoods. Didn't have to unwrap the bars and remove the STI's.
I think the big concern with over tightening the quill is that it will bulge the steerer tube. And that would be doubly bad if the quill was in the area of the top headset bearing. Which it shouldn't be if you don't go beyond max extension line from showing on the stem.
4) Whether the quill stem or the threadless stem adapter, how far down can I push the stem into the headset/head tube before tightening it? I know there is a minimal insertion limit but is there a maximum?
I'd favor getting that threadless adapter. I used one with my '91 Paramount. It was much easier to change the pista type stems when I wanted to try out different length of reach to the bars/hoods. Didn't have to unwrap the bars and remove the STI's.
Last edited by Iride01; 02-10-24 at 06:09 PM.
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I’m new to quill stems and had some questions. Thanks
1) When you tighten the top bolt is there a general torque spec? I have the Velo-Orange quill stem with removable faceplate. I didn’t notice a torque setting on the stem.
2) Also, for my understanding, if you overtighten does that damage/wear down the bearings like non-quill (e.g., top cap bolt just snug, whereas too tight or too loose not good).
3) For fit reasons, I may switch to something like the VO threadless stem adaptor and traditional stem(s). The bike (Rivendell) has a 1” threaded headset. Is it just a matter of removing the old one and putting a new one in, tightening to spec?
4) Whether the quill stem or the threadless stem adapter, how far down can I push the stem into the headset/head tube before tightening it? I know there is a minimal insertion limit but is there a maximum?
5) Bonus question and nothing to do with stems. When you put an aluminum seatpost (Thomson) into a steel frame (Riv with the seatpost bolt through the frame, no separate collar) do you grease the post? I initially had slip with the stock post and haven’t pulled it out yet to see if it’s greased. I was curious as to whether a fibre paste (with grit) would be good.
1) When you tighten the top bolt is there a general torque spec? I have the Velo-Orange quill stem with removable faceplate. I didn’t notice a torque setting on the stem.
2) Also, for my understanding, if you overtighten does that damage/wear down the bearings like non-quill (e.g., top cap bolt just snug, whereas too tight or too loose not good).
3) For fit reasons, I may switch to something like the VO threadless stem adaptor and traditional stem(s). The bike (Rivendell) has a 1” threaded headset. Is it just a matter of removing the old one and putting a new one in, tightening to spec?
4) Whether the quill stem or the threadless stem adapter, how far down can I push the stem into the headset/head tube before tightening it? I know there is a minimal insertion limit but is there a maximum?
5) Bonus question and nothing to do with stems. When you put an aluminum seatpost (Thomson) into a steel frame (Riv with the seatpost bolt through the frame, no separate collar) do you grease the post? I initially had slip with the stock post and haven’t pulled it out yet to see if it’s greased. I was curious as to whether a fibre paste (with grit) would be good.
The quill stem has no effect on your threaded headset adjustment. A quill stem shouldn't be slammed all the way down to the bend, at least raise it a few mm's from that so there's no stress point. Sometimes a head tube is short and quill long and the quill only goes in so far. In that case get a shorter quill.
I've used the VO quill adapter and threadless stem for years. Same common sense approach to tightening as above. It can only go down so far, about an inch above where it starts to flare upwards. Other brands without the flare can go lower.
Yes, grease the post and if it's a new frame apply some inside the tube. I prefer using Permatex anti-seize for posts as well as quill stems as it's for aluminum contacting steel. You can get it in bottle with an applicator in the cap. I've hear of many a Riv frames with slipping posts. I find that puzzling myself as I've never anything but perfectly tight fits on all frames I've ever owned. If it does and it's new frame, contact Riv as it's up to them to make it right if the frame isn't to perfect spec. 26.8 or 27.2 means just that ! No one should have to resort to friction paste or torque-heroics to get a post to stay on a steel frame. Apply some anti-sieze to those seatpost bolt threads too, and the inside where the bolts contact the frame, just to make it easiest to tighten.
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ALWAYS GREASE METAL ON METAL! Seatposts, quill stems, bolts...A good seatpost and a good frame shouldn't have a difficult interface between seatpost and frame and if you do make sure you have the correct stuff first and foremost, make sure it is properly lubricated and torqued and if still having issues reach out to the frame manufacturer and see what they suggest.,
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I’m new to quill stems and had some questions. Thanks
1) When you tighten the top bolt is there a general torque spec? I have the Velo-Orange quill stem with removable faceplate. I didn’t notice a torque setting on the stem. Park's torque chart suggests from 16-29 foot pounds for the quill/wedge bolt and about the same for a two bolt removeable face plate's bolts. For this stuff I rarely use a torque wrench and instead tighten fasteners enough to stay put when stress tested. But I also have only metal stems and such on my bikes.
2) Also, for my understanding, if you overtighten does that damage/wear down the bearings like non-quill (e.g., top cap bolt just snug, whereas too tight or too loose not good). No. The bearing preload is primarily set by the threaded top race and its lock nut. There is a very small amount of steerer tube length shortening when a quill stem is installed and tightened so in the ideal world the bearing preload should be adjusted after a stem is installed. But this is a very small factor that most here likely never heard of (because it's so small an effect). One of the nice aspects of a quill type stem in a threaded fork is that separation of stem securement and headset bearing preload adjustments.
3) For fit reasons, I may switch to something like the VO threadless stem adaptor and traditional stem(s) To show my age I consider that quill stems are the "traditional" design The bike (Rivendell) has a 1” threaded headset. Is it just a matter of removing the old one and putting a new one in, tightening to spec? No, without serious fork changes a threadless headset won't properly fit and be adjusted on a threaded fork. The threadless stem (or riser) needs to be clamped to a smooth and stress free surface (the threads are crack starting concentration points) or there's a possibility that the steerer top will crack and break off at a thread. As the threads are covered and hidden from view the usual "periodic monitoring" is far less likely to be done too.
4) Whether the quill stem or the threadless stem adapter, how far down can I push the stem into the headset/head tube before tightening it? I know there is a minimal insertion limit but is there a maximum? With a quill stem and threaded steerer the usual minimum height/max insertion is determined by a) the bottom of the quill (where the wedge is) can't enter the butted lower portion of the steerer as that section has a narrower ID, b) The stem's exterior shape at the top of the stem grows in diameter or the "fillet" flow of the shape onto the extension's underside flairs out enough to jam up in the steerer's top. Both are fairly obvious and the industry focuses on the opposite limits not being exceeded.
5) Bonus question and nothing to do with stems. When you put an aluminum seatpost (Thomson) into a steel frame (Riv with the seatpost bolt through the frame, no separate collar) do you grease the post? Yes or even better is an anti seize compound. I initially had slip with the stock post and haven’t pulled it out yet to see if it’s greased. Post slippage is usually a sign of a fit problem although sometimes binder slot length can be too short to allow good clamping pressures I was curious as to whether a fibre paste (with grit) would be good. Assembly paste can do wonders for poor fit ups and/or when material/fastener strengths are lacking. It also should act as a galvanic corrosion barrier
1) When you tighten the top bolt is there a general torque spec? I have the Velo-Orange quill stem with removable faceplate. I didn’t notice a torque setting on the stem. Park's torque chart suggests from 16-29 foot pounds for the quill/wedge bolt and about the same for a two bolt removeable face plate's bolts. For this stuff I rarely use a torque wrench and instead tighten fasteners enough to stay put when stress tested. But I also have only metal stems and such on my bikes.
2) Also, for my understanding, if you overtighten does that damage/wear down the bearings like non-quill (e.g., top cap bolt just snug, whereas too tight or too loose not good). No. The bearing preload is primarily set by the threaded top race and its lock nut. There is a very small amount of steerer tube length shortening when a quill stem is installed and tightened so in the ideal world the bearing preload should be adjusted after a stem is installed. But this is a very small factor that most here likely never heard of (because it's so small an effect). One of the nice aspects of a quill type stem in a threaded fork is that separation of stem securement and headset bearing preload adjustments.
3) For fit reasons, I may switch to something like the VO threadless stem adaptor and traditional stem(s) To show my age I consider that quill stems are the "traditional" design The bike (Rivendell) has a 1” threaded headset. Is it just a matter of removing the old one and putting a new one in, tightening to spec? No, without serious fork changes a threadless headset won't properly fit and be adjusted on a threaded fork. The threadless stem (or riser) needs to be clamped to a smooth and stress free surface (the threads are crack starting concentration points) or there's a possibility that the steerer top will crack and break off at a thread. As the threads are covered and hidden from view the usual "periodic monitoring" is far less likely to be done too.
4) Whether the quill stem or the threadless stem adapter, how far down can I push the stem into the headset/head tube before tightening it? I know there is a minimal insertion limit but is there a maximum? With a quill stem and threaded steerer the usual minimum height/max insertion is determined by a) the bottom of the quill (where the wedge is) can't enter the butted lower portion of the steerer as that section has a narrower ID, b) The stem's exterior shape at the top of the stem grows in diameter or the "fillet" flow of the shape onto the extension's underside flairs out enough to jam up in the steerer's top. Both are fairly obvious and the industry focuses on the opposite limits not being exceeded.
5) Bonus question and nothing to do with stems. When you put an aluminum seatpost (Thomson) into a steel frame (Riv with the seatpost bolt through the frame, no separate collar) do you grease the post? Yes or even better is an anti seize compound. I initially had slip with the stock post and haven’t pulled it out yet to see if it’s greased. Post slippage is usually a sign of a fit problem although sometimes binder slot length can be too short to allow good clamping pressures I was curious as to whether a fibre paste (with grit) would be good. Assembly paste can do wonders for poor fit ups and/or when material/fastener strengths are lacking. It also should act as a galvanic corrosion barrier
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You want it functionally tight. Meaning tight enough to steer without slipping.
I do this using the wheel between the knees test described above. It takes amazingly little handlebar force to steer, so if the bars resist twisting, they're tight enough.
I prefer tight enough to need some force to move, but not so much that I can see or feel the fork flex. We used to call this "race tight" because it allowed the bar to twist in a crash, to reduce damage or injury.
For the rest, read Andy's post above.
I do this using the wheel between the knees test described above. It takes amazingly little handlebar force to steer, so if the bars resist twisting, they're tight enough.
I prefer tight enough to need some force to move, but not so much that I can see or feel the fork flex. We used to call this "race tight" because it allowed the bar to twist in a crash, to reduce damage or injury.
For the rest, read Andy's post above.
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+1 "Race tight" means your brake lever might survive and race again. (Having the levers themselves mounted "race tight" further improves the odds.) Scarred brake levers were a badge of honor. I've straightened both bars and levers after crashes to ride home.
You want it functionally tight. Meaning tight enough to steer without slipping.
I do this using the wheel between the knees test described above. It takes amazingly little handlebar force to steer, so if the bars resist twisting, they're tight enough.
I prefer tight enough to need some force to move, but not so much that I can see or feel the fork flex. We used to call this "race tight" because it allowed the bar to twist in a crash, to reduce damage or injury.
For the rest, read Andy's post above.
I do this using the wheel between the knees test described above. It takes amazingly little handlebar force to steer, so if the bars resist twisting, they're tight enough.
I prefer tight enough to need some force to move, but not so much that I can see or feel the fork flex. We used to call this "race tight" because it allowed the bar to twist in a crash, to reduce damage or injury.
For the rest, read Andy's post above.
Last edited by 79pmooney; 02-10-24 at 08:45 PM. Reason: Didn't get my quotes right
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