squirtdad

You can do this with classic early mid 80's bike boom bikes....especially japanese like nishki, univega, centurion, bridgestone, fuji panasonic

if your wife can handle friction shifting it can be as simple as putting a new stem, like a nitto dirt drop or velo orange, new brake levers, new bar (think like english 3 speed) and I really like thumb shifters

I can't find the pic of a nishki built up this way (and still use)

OT where in Montana? I know it can be hard to find bikes stuff there depending on where your are.....I was born and raised in the Hi-Line Chinook....home of the Sugarbeeters

below are some ideas from velo orange

stem https://velo-orange.com/collections/...nt=50647173703

handle bar https://velo-orange.com/collections/...ndlebar-config

shift levers https://velo-orange.com/collections/...-22-2-dia-bars

thumb shifter https://velo-orange.com/collections/...thumb-shifters

cqlink 

If back issue is serious, she needs a recumbent. Not much more to be said. I see a number of good ones needing only a polishing on CL at very affordable prices.

conspiratemus1

The OP asked if taller or more swept-back handlebars would affect steering or handling. I think the answer is not really. The first few yards of riding an unfamiliar bike can be wobbly if the handlebars are different from what one is used to or if a change in the fork alters the steering trail but the brain and body adapt quickly. It is difficult to build a truly unrideable bicycle; just messing with the steering won't do it. I think your wife can take all the useful and insightful suggestions offered here about getting the right riding position and whatever handlebars are necessary to make that work, and be assured that it won't be hard or dangerous to steer. One might, in a perfect world, prefer some other steering/handling geometry but what's important is what fits. Wish you both every success.

Korina

I had my '92 Rockhopper set up with north road bars and a short stem, and it was quite upright. With 2" wide tires, she's steady as a rock and quite nimble, and steering was fine. I've since changed handlebars (too upright for me), but with modifications, you can get your wife as upright as she needs.



When finished, she'll be Perfect Purple Princess Penelope. Because I said so.

schwinnderella

Yep, as Doug Fattic indicates vintage british 3 speeds and Schwinn collegiates and suburbans fit her needs without modifications.

hokiefyd 

I would second the recommendation for a mixte. Mixtes usually came in one, maybe two sizes, and they typically have taller head tubes relative to the gents frames. I bought a '70 Peugeot mixte for cheap just because I thought it was interesting, and it's one of my favorite bikes, just for how it rides. The tubes are thin, so the frame is compliant, which may be important for your wife. It has a low trail number, which seems typical of French bikes of the era, so it's very stable at low speeds. The geometry is such that I feel that I don't steer the bike -- it just seems to go where I want it to go. It's hard to describe -- it just feels completely natural to ride (and not something that I need to muscle around).

A mixte with a conservatively-swept city-style handlebar and a vintage style sprung seat that fits her might be just the ticket.

Of course, the neat thing about bicycles is the mile-wide variety of choice, and versatility that many of them offer. @Korina and her Purple Princess is a great example of that. A mixte may be one good avenue for her, but there are other great suggestions in this thread as well.

Cheseldine

Thank you all for the excellent recommendations - you've given me a general idea of what I need to look for. My next step will be searching the local classified ads to find a good (cheap) bike to start building.

I'll keep you all updated as this project progresses!

52telecaster

I always ride upright because my neck doesnt bend well. I also always ride a road bike with northroad style bars. My personal favorite lately are vo portuer bars.
Plenty upright. Realize you need a wider seat for this position. At least i do. Currently using a brooks c19.

sunnyone

I've also wondered if anyone ever puts more upright bars on vintage road bikes?[/QUOTE]
I have converted all of my bikes (two vintage road bikes and two cromo hybrids) to upright bars due to neck problems. One bike has albatross bars, the other three have “tourist” bars. I find the tourist bars the most comfortable in providing an upright ride and a comfortable hand position. Tourist bars come back even further than north roads bars.
What works best for me to provide an comfortable upright riding position is a road bike frame toward the large size with a relatively short top tube, a short-reach stem, and tourist type bars. Velo Orange sells a nice tourist bar.
Also, if you go with a mixte frame, your wife can ride a frame that’s tall enough to get a comfortable seat height without raising the seat post too high, and still be able to stand over the bike comfortably.
I would stay away from mountain bikes, as they tend to have longer top tubes, requiring more reach.
I second squirtdad’s suggestion of a dirt drop stem.

Cheseldine

I have converted all of my bikes (two vintage road bikes and two cromo hybrids) to upright bars due to neck problems. One bike has albatross bars, the other three have “tourist” bars. I find the tourist bars the most comfortable in providing an upright ride and a comfortable hand position. Tourist bars come back even further than north roads bars.
What works best for me to provide an comfortable upright riding position is a road bike frame toward the large size with a relatively short top tube, a short-reach stem, and tourist type bars. Velo Orange sells a nice tourist bar.
Also, if you go with a mixte frame, your wife can ride a frame that’s tall enough to get a comfortable seat height without raising the seat post too high, and still be able to stand over the bike comfortably.
I would stay away from mountain bikes, as they tend to have longer top tubes, requiring more reach.
I second squirtdad’s suggestion of a dirt drop stem.[/QUOTE]

Interestingly enough, for my own use I'm trying to convert an old fillet-brazed rigid Jamis Diablo mountain bike into a dirt drop/commuter setup. The biggest issue I'm running into is finding the correct stem/bar combo as it seems all the dirt drop stems have a clamp diameter of 25.4 and all the dirt drop bars are 31.8. Do you have any recommendations? I'd prefer to avoid using an adapter.

Thanks!

sunnyone

[QUOTE/]Interestingly enough, for my own use I'm trying to convert an old fillet-brazed rigid Jamis Diablo mountain bike into a dirt drop/commuter setup. The biggest issue I'm running into is finding the correct stem/bar combo as it seems all the dirt drop stems have a clamp diameter of 25.4 and all the dirt drop bars are 31.8. Do you have any recommendations? I'd prefer to avoid using an adapter.

Thanks![/QUOTE]

Sorry I can’t help. I’m using a dirt drop stem with Velo Orange tourist bars which are 25.4

bwilli88 

I have degenerative discs and have trouble bending to use drop bars on a typical negative rise stem. I like the Nitto technomic at 90 degrees it has a bit of rise or a typical riser stem. I recently changed one of my daily riders to this

Miele Man

Interestingly enough, for my own use I'm trying to convert an old fillet-brazed rigid Jamis Diablo mountain bike into a dirt drop/commuter setup. The biggest issue I'm running into is finding the correct stem/bar combo as it seems all the dirt drop stems have a clamp diameter of 25.4 and all the dirt drop bars are 31.8. Do you have any recommendations? I'd prefer to avoid using an adapter.

Thanks![/QUOTE]

I just use old school dropbars. Alloy for regular diameter stems and steel dropbar for the narrower diameter old mtb stems. Note, with the steel dropbar you need new brake lever clamps or shims or brake levers with the smaller diameter clamps for steel dropbar.

Cheers