Rear Wheel Won't Drop In
04-11-20, 10:33 PM
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Is the part not going in, just slightly out of round? If it is rotated, is it just slightly narrower?
If it was me, and I tried everything, and could not get anything to work, and it is only a very tiny amount, like you said, I would use a file to fix it. Try all other options first.
If it was me, and I tried everything, and could not get anything to work, and it is only a very tiny amount, like you said, I would use a file to fix it. Try all other options first.
Thanks for the response. The nut looks to be perfectly round. The portion where it is getting caught on the frame also seems to be round but when I touch it with my hand it definetly isnt perfectly smooth. I cant really tell if it is slightly narrower, but my guess is it may be. It just doesnt make sense to me because it dropped out without much problem yesterday.
I did try to smooth it using a file but that didnt work and I dont want to try to aggresively. I am going to try to get a caliper to measure and figure out whats going on.......
04-11-20, 11:27 PM
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Andy,
Thanks for all your help. To tighten, I used a standard 17mm socket on the cassette side while holding the other side with a 13mm wrench. Of course this was not ideal as I could only tighten until the cassette side nut became flush with the ring with the 14 prongs as I did not have the specialised cassette socket. See attached images.
I do think you are correct that the center of the 17mm nut I tightened could be held with an allen key or a hexagonal socket, but I did it the way explained above.
I heald the part circled and pointed to with a 13mm wrench. It is a round piece with two flat sides which were easy to hold on to
While spinning this piece with a 17mm socket. Worked well until it was flush with the cover which has the 14 pronges. Definently didnt make it to the reccomended 40nm of torque
Thanks for all your help. To tighten, I used a standard 17mm socket on the cassette side while holding the other side with a 13mm wrench. Of course this was not ideal as I could only tighten until the cassette side nut became flush with the ring with the 14 prongs as I did not have the specialised cassette socket. See attached images.
I do think you are correct that the center of the 17mm nut I tightened could be held with an allen key or a hexagonal socket, but I did it the way explained above.
I heald the part circled and pointed to with a 13mm wrench. It is a round piece with two flat sides which were easy to hold on to
While spinning this piece with a 17mm socket. Worked well until it was flush with the cover which has the 14 pronges. Definently didnt make it to the reccomended 40nm of torque
To do that, you turn what you call ”the cover with 14 prongs”.
What you did was overtighten the axle.
Maybe Something squished and is no longer fitting.
Last edited by dabac; 04-12-20 at 12:02 AM.
04-11-20, 11:40 PM
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Again my memory is not solid but I believe the RH axle end has a hex wrench fitting (5mm?) to hold the axle stationary while the axle end cap is turned with a common open end wrench (17mm?). On other mavic freehub systems the cassette can remain on the FH body during this.
And the torque sometimes needed to take the axle apart can cause a regular, L-shaped Allen key to bend with an unsettling amount...
04-11-20, 11:44 PM
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Ok I'll bite. Looks like you over tightened the hub cones (not the cassette) and in the process of doing so, squeezed the sleeve on the QR axle slightly so that it is ever slightly out of round. It looks like it should be able to be forced into the dropout. But you may want to back off the cone just a bit too ensure your hub isn't overtightened.
04-12-20, 12:14 AM
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Considering how chewed up that inside edge is, I wonder if that wheel was right when you got it.
what happens if you install wheel as it will let you, and turn the pedals?
If the gears are indexing correctly there, then that wheel was wrong before, regardless of what you’ve done.
what happens if you install wheel as it will let you, and turn the pedals?
If the gears are indexing correctly there, then that wheel was wrong before, regardless of what you’ve done.
Last edited by dabac; 04-12-20 at 12:18 AM.
04-12-20, 12:55 AM
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Ok I'll bite. Looks like you over tightened the hub cones (not the cassette) and in the process of doing so, squeezed the sleeve on the QR axle slightly so that it is ever slightly out of round. It looks like it should be able to be forced into the dropout. But you may want to back off the cone just a bit too ensure your hub isn't overtightened.
I just loostened the axle, doing the resverse of what I did, (17mm socket and 13mm wrench) and within 1/8 of a turn it was loose enough do undo with my finger so I doubt I bent/squished any metal..... assuming these parts arent extremely fragile
Again everyone, I acknowlege I am a noob. I just figured it should be a little tighter than finger tight....... It was so loose that there was a solid amount of play in the axle such that you could pull/push either side of the axle and it would move. Now that I loostened it back to where it was, that play is back.
Even when I tried to force the cassette side of the wheel in the dropout nothing happend. Again, the side opposite the cassette goes in to the frame with no issue. It is the cassette side which refuses to cooperate.
Can anyone confirm what the circled bolt with the ciruclar end is called?
04-12-20, 12:56 AM
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04-12-20, 01:03 AM
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Considering how chewed up that inside edge is, I wonder if that wheel was right when you got it.
what happens if you install wheel as it will let you, and turn the pedals?
If the gears are indexing correctly there, then that wheel was wrong before, regardless of what you’ve done.
what happens if you install wheel as it will let you, and turn the pedals?
If the gears are indexing correctly there, then that wheel was wrong before, regardless of what you’ve done.
If I install the wheel as it is and turn the pedal the wheel/chain moves but it is clearly not in correctly .I know things are messed up / the wheel was not installed like this before because if I shift into the lowest gear (smallest wheel on the casette) the chain falls off the casette and goes into the gap between the wheel and the frame. Good call though, if there was that gap and the gears shifted fine then that would be a good indicator that the wheel was installed incorrectly prior.
I would have never installed the wheel without it being on the frame .... even with the little expeience I have.
Everyone - thank you again for the help. Im slowly learning....
Last edited by justbike; 04-12-20 at 01:06 AM.
04-12-20, 02:41 AM
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It appears to by a Mavic Aksium wheel. Is it possible the cassette side axle nut is backwards. See attached diagram.
Diagram
Diagram
Pirkaus might have it. I haven't worked with many Mavic wheels with the bearing adjustment that requires the bearing preload sleeve (what many will mistakenly call the cone) to be replaced with each adjustment. But the second series of photos seem to show the RH axle end is now too large in diameter to fit the drop out. Good photos and angles this time. Andy
Pirkaus, you are correct. The cassette side axle nut was backwards. I tried fitting the other side of the nut in the frame's drop and even though it was cracked/.slightly squished, Good catch! It should have been facing the other direction with the serrations facing outward. See attached images.
The new issue is that the axle nut has 4 small cracks in it. How necessary is it to replace? Anyone have an idea where I can get a replacement? How tight should the axle nut be when I replace it. Remember, when it was super loose there was a solid amount of play in the axle.
See cracks on nut
This side (non serrated) was facing outwards, which was incorrect
This side (serrated) was facing inwards, which was incorrect
Thank you again everyone.
04-12-20, 03:38 AM
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Nice that you figured it out. Definitely, the serrated side should be facing the dropout. The cracks shouldn't affect the function of the nut but then again I'm pretty risk tolerant, you might not be.
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04-12-20, 08:07 AM
#39
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Justbike, I'm glad you got this all sorted out, but if the nut was in backwards to start with, how the heck did the wheel fit in there in the first place? And how did it function for as long as it did, prior to you removing the wheel?
Tom
Tom
04-12-20, 08:42 AM
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This thread is a great example of what I was mentioning in another current thread, the value of collaboration. In that thread the collaboration was between the staff of a good LBS. But here seemed to work too. Glad things seem to be in order now. Andy
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04-16-20, 05:43 AM
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You have the link to the Mavic tech support?
Find your wheel, find the article number of the part. Call your closest shops, ask if they can get Mavic parts. Those who say ”yes”, ask them for a quote on that article number.
Pick your supplier, place an order.
