Left For Dead
#1
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Left For Dead
I've walked by this bike several thousand times over the course of 6 or 7 years and it had never moved. Last winter, the wheels went missing so I figured it was just a matter of time before some scrapper would haul it away.
Last edited by branko_76; 05-27-20 at 05:53 PM.
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#2
Disraeli Gears
I ride a frame regularly that precedes this by several years; it's heavy but reliable and built with care. Has the same dropouts, pretty much: the "Stallard" pattern. I'm attached to it and hope that this one does something for you.
Nice vintage radial arm saw . . .
Nice vintage radial arm saw . . .
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Thanks, it's a 1950's era DeWalt 9"
This will be my 4th Falcon, the first one I sold many years ago, one is my main ride and another needs to be built-up. This one will need alot of work.
This will be my 4th Falcon, the first one I sold many years ago, one is my main ride and another needs to be built-up. This one will need alot of work.
Last edited by branko_76; 05-27-20 at 06:30 PM.
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Fork looks bent.
Anyone know what type of fork and crown this is? The blades are more round than oval...
Anyone know what type of fork and crown this is? The blades are more round than oval...
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...from the pictures, that fork looks like it is well within the range where it can be straightened. But you need an alignment jig to do a good job of it. For something bent like that, I put a hub or a dummy axle in the dropouts, slide it in the alignment jig clamped by the steerer so the fork ends are pointed toward the floor, then use a length of 2x4 with the head of it braced somewhere near the crown, and lever down on the hub, bending both legs back toward original at the same time. It works more often than it fails.
...from the pictures, that fork looks like it is well within the range where it can be straightened. But you need an alignment jig to do a good job of it. For something bent like that, I put a hub or a dummy axle in the dropouts, slide it in the alignment jig clamped by the steerer so the fork ends are pointed toward the floor, then use a length of 2x4 with the head of it braced somewhere near the crown, and lever down on the hub, bending both legs back toward original at the same time. It works more often than it fails.
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Awesome, will give that a try....once again, 2x4's to the rescue
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Thats a C&V DeWalt. I had a 14" model a little older than that for a long time. The arm and motor moved together, and the bearings that the arm rolled on were on top of the column. It must have weighed at least 400 lbs.
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Remnants of what appears to be a Reynolds 531 sticker, plain gauge no doubt...
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That’s not even close to dead, have fun!
Tim
Tim
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I absolutely love the paint color! I agree that looks like the Reynolds “Frame Tubes” sticker indicating plain gauge. Nice save.
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Tough call on apparently abandoned bikes like that, but once the parts start going away you're probably justified in saving the remainder.
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This is the first time seeing a GB stem like this, looks similar to some Schwinn stems from the 70's...
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I would avoid 3alarm's method for fork straightening on this one as the blades are
bent differently from each other. clamp the steering column in a vise ( use wood
blocks with a V cut into them) with blades horizontal .lay 4 or 5 spare spokes along
length of blades as a guide as to where to bend. use a lever of your choice and go slow
those schwinn approved channel stems of yore were made by GB
bent differently from each other. clamp the steering column in a vise ( use wood
blocks with a V cut into them) with blades horizontal .lay 4 or 5 spare spokes along
length of blades as a guide as to where to bend. use a lever of your choice and go slow
those schwinn approved channel stems of yore were made by GB
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In terms of aligning the fork and frame, I plan to proceed with caution. All suggestions are welcome.
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Fork is quite redeemable, interesting as it has round blades. Uncommon.
Retire the front derailleur.
Retire the front derailleur.
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yes, the Simplex front will go.
The fork is interesting. Wondering what the design intent was, more flex for shock absorption?
The fork is interesting. Wondering what the design intent was, more flex for shock absorption?
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www.rhmsaddles.com.
www.rhmsaddles.com.
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I tend to be heavy-handed with my tools so I would add a block of wood with a 1" hole drilled in it for the steerer, this way i won't crush it by over-tightening the vise.
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I started to take it apart today, the only problem I had was with the drive side crank, the extractor would not budge it .....
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....so I had to resort to a more primitive method....
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It looks like the bottom bracket was replaced at some point with a sealed Shimano type BB. The spindle is extrememly stiff, takes quite a bit of force to turn it. The spindles of the original KKT pedals on the other hand are buttery smooth...
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I finished pulling the frame apart today and was a little surprised how light the frame was. Taking it to the postal scale, the frame, with headset cups weighed 2.254 kg, the fork, 720 gms. Comparing it to my Raleigh Super Course with plain gauge Reynolds main tubes, 2.594 kg, fork 834 gms, I figured what I have is a full Reynolds frame and fork.
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The next suprise were the drop-outs, which I assumed were stamped steel. After cleaning the surface rust off, tiny letters started to appear...b r e v c a m p a g n o l o...
Looking a little closer, I could see remnants of a derailleur hanger that was hacked off by some numbskull...
Looking a little closer, I could see remnants of a derailleur hanger that was hacked off by some numbskull...
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