So I got a flat today.
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So I got a flat today.
So this is what I found buried in my rear tire about 7 miles from home today. I thought for about 10 seconds as to whether to walk home or fix it there. Had the spare tube and tire levers. About fifteen min. later I had the new tube installed and was pumping it up. About another twenty five min. later I realized I was going to buy a CO2 inflator as soon as I got home. I ended up stopping home on the return loop and topping off the tire with a real floor pump and finished up with 20+ miles. The tire, inflated with the mini pump, couldn't set the beed and the tire was out of round. I got home I pumped it up to about 80 and it popped, dropped the pressure to about 30 psi and then reset the pressure to 40 and finished my ride. Also, anybody have a tire that is about 34-6mm and bullet proof. This is the third flat I have gotten and it is getting old. Seriously, what is a decent CO2 inflator?
Frank.
Frank.
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I like this one
https://www.modernbike.com/portland-...-inflator-only
But whatever you do, get one with a valve.
https://www.modernbike.com/portland-...-inflator-only
But whatever you do, get one with a valve.
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I like this one
https://www.modernbike.com/portland-...-inflator-only
But whatever you do, get one with a valve.
https://www.modernbike.com/portland-...-inflator-only
But whatever you do, get one with a valve.
Frank.
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I suppose that you can, but i never have and I wouldn't risk it - there could be an accidental discharge. You keep them apart and then when you need them, you first make sure the inflator valve is closed, then screw in the cartridge, then engage the cartridge to the tire valve (for best results, position the tire valve so that the inflator and cartridge are vertical), and then open the inflator valve. For a gravel tire and a 16 g cartridge, you'll likely use the whole cartridge for each inflation.
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I suppose that you can, but i never have and I wouldn't risk it - there could be an accidental discharge. You keep them apart and then when you need them, you first make sure the inflator valve is closed, then screw in the cartridge, then engage the cartridge to the tire valve (for best results, position the tire valve so that the inflator and cartridge are vertical), and then open the inflator valve. For a gravel tire and a 16 g cartridge, you'll likely use the whole cartridge for each inflation.
Frank.
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Probably goes without saying, but make sure you are wearing gloves before you open the valve. The cartridge gets super-cold.
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BTW, though I carry CO2 mostly, the aggravation you had with your pump might have been the fault of your pump. Some are much better than others. I tend to like the Topeak pumps, like this one. I've used it to pump up 35 mm gravel tires in maybe 5 minutes.
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Thank you for this. You also answered my second question with your statement that I would likely use the entire cartridge for a 37mm tire. What I meant to ask,and didn't, was if I didn't use the entire cart could I leave it on the inflator and store it that way until next time but I shouldn't have enough left to matter. I am looking into the model you gave me the link to. It looks good to me and I will order some cartridges also. If I buy enough of them I will never get another flat right? Thanks again for you time and responses.
Frank.
Frank.
Frank,
Since you are new to this - cartridges come in different sizes. Some are for 23mm tires, some are for 2.3inch tires. Make sure you get the right size for your tire.
I do like the head only (linked above) inflators, but also keep in mind you can only buy cartridges with screw on threads if you get that type.
I have a little lenzine pump that does pretty well. A high quality pump should allow you to get plenty of pressure in there. Then again, some pumps (skinny ones) are for high pressure, others (fatter ones) are for high volume. We are kinda in between with our bikes.
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Sorry, I have no specific suggestions because I haven't shopped for a mini pump for a long time (as mentioned above Lezine makes good products). I have an old mini Blackburn pump that has served me well.
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Topeak dual-action pump works great. https://www.performancebike.com/tope...mb-2%2fp319212
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Frank.
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The stock WTB Riddler 700 x 37c with tubes. The tires are good I just, for some reason, not the fault of the tires, keep getting flats on the rear tire. I do not ride off road in rough areas and I don't drive through construction areas. This time it was a stick. Not a nail or thorn but a piece of stick. Honestly, I am looking for a slightly narrower tire or even the same width, that is good on roads and ok on gravel. The bullet proof part was me being angry because I wasn't able to get in my full ride because I had to stop and fix a tire. I am definitely looking into a better pump though. What I have is not OK.
Frank.
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steve is probably right. They get the lowest marks for puncture resistance here: https://www.bicyclerollingresistance...ws/wtb-riddler .
Lowest measured for gravel tires in both tread and sidewall...
Lowest measured for gravel tires in both tread and sidewall...
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#18
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I agree with the comments to avoid the CO2 cannisters and instead get a decent pump. I originally rode a mountain bike and bought a small pump to take with me on rides for that bike. Then when I bought a road bike I tried using it to pump up a road bike and it couldn't handle the pressure needed for a road bike. So I bought a decent carbon fiber road bike pump. I've used it on the road several times with good result. No need to waste the environment with cartridges.
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Or you carry a tube and tire levers and deal with the mess of the sealant as you put a tube in. Issue with plug kits is it's really hard to perfect how to use at home. You need to keep around an old tubeless tire ?, I guess, puncture it and learn how to get good at plugging the leak ?.
Installing a tube and getting proficient at it is easy at home and what you learn saves you time and aggravation on the road, when it's 40 degrees out. I really don't want to learn how to use the plug kit when I'm freezing my ass off on the side of the road.
Note that I run tubeless on my mt. bike, have used them on my gravel but won't run then on my road bike. Hell, I don't even want tubeless rims on my road bike as they are a PITA to deal with trying to unseat a tire.
And Yes,, I get that you can run less air on tubeless and that's a good thing, but they can also be a pain when the leak is too much for the sealant. I'll deal with tubes any day.
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Yeah, I'm a pump only guy as well. My mini-pumps will eventually give me adequate pressure with some work but my longer frame fit Zefal works great. I can't imagine not being able to seat a bead with a tube installed, it just takes some pumping. I'm guessing that your mini-pump is just not up to the task.
If you do opt for CO2, please don't leave your spent canisters behind (especially in the middle of the path so they can drop other riders to the dirt).
If you do opt for CO2, please don't leave your spent canisters behind (especially in the middle of the path so they can drop other riders to the dirt).
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Its always good practice to perfect and best understand the procedure in the comfort of the shop or home. This has been good advice for changing tubes (or chain fixing, etc...) for decades, the idea that the first time you have to do a mechanical repair that will allow you to not call Uber, is well understood before you need to actually do it, and that the repair will actually work. Not finding out while standing by the side of the road on a cold day. As example, how many posts are on this forum from folks who have never dealt with tubeless rims and the attending difficulties getting a tire on or off the rim ?. Simple stuff once you understand and know it, if you try it the first time at home, your not cursing in the cold.
Last edited by Steve B.; 09-10-20 at 12:19 PM.
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Yeah, I'm a pump only guy as well. My mini-pumps will eventually give me adequate pressure with some work but my longer frame fit Zefal works great. I can't imagine not being able to seat a bead with a tube installed, it just takes some pumping. I'm guessing that your mini-pump is just not up to the task.
If you do opt for CO2, please don't leave your spent canisters behind (especially in the middle of the path so they can drop other riders to the dirt).
If you do opt for CO2, please don't leave your spent canisters behind (especially in the middle of the path so they can drop other riders to the dirt).
Frank.
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Thank you all for your posts. I run tubes and will continue to do so in the foreseeable future. I carry a spare tube and I now need to come up with a better inflation system than the one I have now. I am very proficient at removing the tube and from the wheel by using levers that I have in both of my bike bags but the pumps I have are not cutting it. Thanks again for all of the input.
Frank.
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I didn't mean to imply that you would. Sorry if I offended.
I'm part of a Trail Watch group that monitors our local MUP. One of our activities is to do a monthly trash cleanup along the trail. I'm sad to report that spent CO2 cylinders are a frequent item found, as are discarded tubes. We all know that some cyclists care only about themselves.
I'm part of a Trail Watch group that monitors our local MUP. One of our activities is to do a monthly trash cleanup along the trail. I'm sad to report that spent CO2 cylinders are a frequent item found, as are discarded tubes. We all know that some cyclists care only about themselves.
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