A little problem with a Suntour Superbe GT derailleur.
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A little problem with a Suntour Superbe GT derailleur.
I removed this from an 85 Specialized Sequoia and cleaned it up without tearing it all apart.It shifts very well
but it doesn't seem to want to go into the smallest cog.Even with the high limit screw adjusted all the way out
the cage doesn't seem to move outward far enough unless I move it with my hand. With the screw all the
way out theres a gap between where the screw and the stop is.
but it doesn't seem to want to go into the smallest cog.Even with the high limit screw adjusted all the way out
the cage doesn't seem to move outward far enough unless I move it with my hand. With the screw all the
way out theres a gap between where the screw and the stop is.
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If you can move it with your hand it means you are most likely having a cable issue, not a derailleur issue. Is there any slack in the cable when you tighten it down at the derailleur?
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After you shift up for the first time, and then try to shift back down to the smallest cog, is the cable much tighter than you initially had it (causing it to not want to shift down)? Periodically this happens to me due to accidentally pushing against the pulley cage with my hand when tightening down the cable, so that the full force of the spring isn't acting on the cable until after I tighten it down and let go of the derailleur, causing the cable tension to be much stronger than necessary
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After you shift up for the first time, and then try to shift back down to the smallest cog, is the cable much tighter than you initially had it (causing it to not want to shift down)? Periodically this happens to me due to accidentally pushing against the pulley cage with my hand when tightening down the cable, so that the full force of the spring isn't acting on the cable until after I tighten it down and let go of the derailleur, causing the cable tension to be much stronger than necessary
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Is your hanger bent?
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I removed this from an 85 Specialized Sequoia and cleaned it up without tearing it all apart.It shifts very well
but it doesn't seem to want to go into the smallest cog.Even with the high limit screw adjusted all the way out
the cage doesn't seem to move outward far enough unless I move it with my hand. With the screw all the
way out theres a gap between where the screw and the stop is.
but it doesn't seem to want to go into the smallest cog.Even with the high limit screw adjusted all the way out
the cage doesn't seem to move outward far enough unless I move it with my hand. With the screw all the
way out theres a gap between where the screw and the stop is.
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The cables are old and I'm going to replace them. I have it shifting good while on the stand. I'll have to try it out on the road tomorrow
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As others suggested, check your derailleur hanger alignment.
Also, what chain are you using? Modern chains for 8-9-10-speed systems allow more sideways flex than older chain. You could try a downgrade to a "6-speed" chain like a KMC Z33 chain- $10 to $20 online.
Also, what chain are you using? Modern chains for 8-9-10-speed systems allow more sideways flex than older chain. You could try a downgrade to a "6-speed" chain like a KMC Z33 chain- $10 to $20 online.
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As already mentioned, most likely a cable friction (or tension) issue.
That said, I sometimes have trouble getting vintage derailers to move modern chain all the way to the smallest cog, typically after I change out a 5s freewheel for a 6s freewheel, where the smallest cog is now just 3-4mm from the dropout.
One adjustment you have left is to back off on the B-tension screw, to move the guide pulley closer to the cogs.
And another trick of mine is to apply a bevel to the tip of every third tooth of the 2nd-smallest cog (bevel on the outer/drive side). This definitely helps with lazy shifting.
That said, I sometimes have trouble getting vintage derailers to move modern chain all the way to the smallest cog, typically after I change out a 5s freewheel for a 6s freewheel, where the smallest cog is now just 3-4mm from the dropout.
One adjustment you have left is to back off on the B-tension screw, to move the guide pulley closer to the cogs.
And another trick of mine is to apply a bevel to the tip of every third tooth of the 2nd-smallest cog (bevel on the outer/drive side). This definitely helps with lazy shifting.
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The problem was the derailleur hanger was bent. Everything good now.
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Back in the pre-index era, we'd straighten bent derailleur hangers by eye with a Crescent wrench. With 7/8/9/10/11/12-speed index shifting the precision required is pretty high.
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Those long cage Superbe RDs are pretty rare! Take care of it!
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