Cable cutting tool
02-21-20, 11:54 AM
#1
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Cable cutting tool
finally have to admit that the tool i bought a few years ago to cut cables and housings just plain sucks after gaffing up yet another cable housing. any recs for a good tool to purchase?
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02-21-20, 12:13 PM
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Here's a three-page thread on the subject started just two weeks ago:
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...ng-cutter.html
.
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...ng-cutter.html
.
02-21-20, 12:23 PM
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thanks... didn't think there would actually be a thread on the subject!
02-21-20, 12:47 PM
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If price is no object… 
Cuts the cable electronically and fuses the end at the same time so it can't unravel. What's not to like (besides the cost)?
Cuts the cable electronically and fuses the end at the same time so it can't unravel. What's not to like (besides the cost)?
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02-21-20, 05:12 PM
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good tips in those other threads... i have a 2 year old little used pedro that i'm not impressed with, so ordered a Klein cutting tool today.
02-21-20, 05:19 PM
#7
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...and the weight (20 kg), and the voltage (220), and the fact that the lights probably dim on the whole block when you throw the switch.....
02-21-20, 05:20 PM
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I use a Jagwire. Works fine.
Tried cutoff wheels with a moto-tool. Dang things always shatter before finishing a single cut.
Tried cutoff wheels with a moto-tool. Dang things always shatter before finishing a single cut.
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02-22-20, 12:48 AM
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My dropout hanger alignment tool similarly payed for itself quickly by saving me time spent doing it the harder way.
02-22-20, 08:22 PM
#10
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Here's a three-page thread on the subject started just two weeks ago:
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...ng-cutter.html
.
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...ng-cutter.html
.
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02-23-20, 08:05 AM
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I think these red handled ones are Hozan(?) and they work great for me, but it isn't like they've been cutting several cables a day for the last two decades. The shipmano ones I save exclusively for brake housings but I know some use then as cable cutters.
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02-23-20, 09:53 AM
#12
framebuilder
I didn't chime in on the other similar threads so I will here. Somewhere in my ancient history I got a VAR cable cutter. Of course it was much better than something bought at Sears but not nearly as nice as the Felco I got next. The Felco is the standard of excellence. For our bike shop in Ukraine I took over a Park. It is decent and works well but isn't quite as good as my Felco. A year ago or so I bought a Jagwire and it is similar in quality to the Felco. If I had to do it again I would get either the Felco or Jagwire based on buying convenience. The Jagwire does have a little accessory to crimp cable caps just below the spring.
Last edited by Doug Fattic; 02-26-20 at 11:38 AM.
02-23-20, 01:36 PM
#13
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Guys!?, what's wrong with a wire cutter and a file to trim and smooth the ends of a housing?
Now, cutting the cables is pretty straight forward but stopping them from fraying is another matter altogether*. Frayed end is basically the only way I have ever lost (given up on) a cable.
* My whacky story. I made a small welder which uses the carbon rod from a D cell as one electrode and a spare power cord. You use the 115 VAC from the wall as the power source. One lead goes directly to the metal object to be welded. The other lead clips onto the carbon rod. Touch the carbon rod to the end of the cable and it will weld it. The carbon rod limits the peak current and prevents any sticking to the electrode which might occur with a metal electrode. Wear eye protection, just in case. If it gets away from you, just pull the cord from the AC socket.
Now, cutting the cables is pretty straight forward but stopping them from fraying is another matter altogether*. Frayed end is basically the only way I have ever lost (given up on) a cable.
* My whacky story. I made a small welder which uses the carbon rod from a D cell as one electrode and a spare power cord. You use the 115 VAC from the wall as the power source. One lead goes directly to the metal object to be welded. The other lead clips onto the carbon rod. Touch the carbon rod to the end of the cable and it will weld it. The carbon rod limits the peak current and prevents any sticking to the electrode which might occur with a metal electrode. Wear eye protection, just in case. If it gets away from you, just pull the cord from the AC socket.
02-26-20, 02:53 AM
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I don't know if you can buy them in the USA but I use Knipex cutters I bought in Germany. They were expensive but are brilliant...clean cut every time with no straggling wires
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02-26-20, 06:59 AM
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After using the Dremel with a cut-off wheel for years, I purchased a Pedro's set of cable cutters. They don't cut to my standards, so they now hang unused on the pegboard.
Back to the Dremel, which along with a bench vise, work very well.
Back to the Dremel, which along with a bench vise, work very well.
02-26-20, 02:03 PM
#17
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I mentioned on the previous thread on this subject that Knipex diagonal cutters were the preferred cable cutting tool when I was wrenching ~30 years ago. Most mechanics preferred them to specialty cutting tools. The only specialty cutting tools around at the time were the original flavor SIS Shimano cutters. Those generally only got used for cutting SIS derailleur housing. I guess there was a VAR tool around, but I never saw one in any shop where I worked.
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02-26-20, 05:10 PM
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Guys!?, what's wrong with a wire cutter and a file to trim and smooth the ends of a housing?
Now, cutting the cables is pretty straight forward but stopping them from fraying is another matter altogether*. Frayed end is basically the only way I have ever lost (given up on) a cable.
* My whacky story. I made a small welder which uses the carbon rod from a D cell as one electrode and a spare power cord. You use the 115 VAC from the wall as the power source. One lead goes directly to the metal object to be welded. The other lead clips onto the carbon rod. Touch the carbon rod to the end of the cable and it will weld it. The carbon rod limits the peak current and prevents any sticking to the electrode which might occur with a metal electrode. Wear eye protection, just in case. If it gets away from you, just pull the cord from the AC socket.
Now, cutting the cables is pretty straight forward but stopping them from fraying is another matter altogether*. Frayed end is basically the only way I have ever lost (given up on) a cable.
* My whacky story. I made a small welder which uses the carbon rod from a D cell as one electrode and a spare power cord. You use the 115 VAC from the wall as the power source. One lead goes directly to the metal object to be welded. The other lead clips onto the carbon rod. Touch the carbon rod to the end of the cable and it will weld it. The carbon rod limits the peak current and prevents any sticking to the electrode which might occur with a metal electrode. Wear eye protection, just in case. If it gets away from you, just pull the cord from the AC socket.
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02-27-20, 01:04 PM
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Guys!?, what's wrong with a wire cutter and a file to trim and smooth the ends of a housing?
Now, cutting the cables is pretty straight forward but stopping them from fraying is another matter altogether*. Frayed end is basically the only way I have ever lost (given up on) a cable.
* My whacky story. I made a small welder which uses the carbon rod from a D cell as one electrode and a spare power cord. You use the 115 VAC from the wall as the power source. One lead goes directly to the metal object to be welded. The other lead clips onto the carbon rod. Touch the carbon rod to the end of the cable and it will weld it. The carbon rod limits the peak current and prevents any sticking to the electrode which might occur with a metal electrode. Wear eye protection, just in case. If it gets away from you, just pull the cord from the AC socket.
Now, cutting the cables is pretty straight forward but stopping them from fraying is another matter altogether*. Frayed end is basically the only way I have ever lost (given up on) a cable.
* My whacky story. I made a small welder which uses the carbon rod from a D cell as one electrode and a spare power cord. You use the 115 VAC from the wall as the power source. One lead goes directly to the metal object to be welded. The other lead clips onto the carbon rod. Touch the carbon rod to the end of the cable and it will weld it. The carbon rod limits the peak current and prevents any sticking to the electrode which might occur with a metal electrode. Wear eye protection, just in case. If it gets away from you, just pull the cord from the AC socket.
02-27-20, 07:20 PM
#20
Senior Member
I thought I was nuts using a Dixon #2 pencil as a rod with a 30V AC power supply. That was a long time ago, and the pencil would last for about 6 seconds before the wood caught fire. It was fun though
The carbon rod core of a D cell is huge.
02-28-20, 11:11 AM
#21
Senior Member
My experience BITD was that good quality d*kes were faster and cleaner on old school and spiral housing, and the ends required less cleanup after being cut. When the longitudinally stranded derailleur housing came out, yeah, you had to use the special cutters or it would just get squished. The regular diagonal cutters continued to be used for brake housing and cable cutting. IIRC the vast majority of shop mechanics did the same thing. I'm not saying this is the right or the best way, just that it was common practice. YMMV. There are like 20x more choices of cutters now than there were 30 years ago.
