Kilo TT Belt Drive Conversion
#26
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Also, stainless steel and bronze will make for a weak joint. Silver is what you needed for that, but since it is in a low-stress area you might be ok for the long run.
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As an FYI, brazing, properly done, is more than strong enough for a disc mount. It's done all the time. Probably a good idea to not put a mount on a fork that wasnt intended to have one though.
Also, stainless steel and bronze will make for a weak joint. Silver is what you needed for that, but since it is in a low-stress area you might be ok for the long run.
Also, stainless steel and bronze will make for a weak joint. Silver is what you needed for that, but since it is in a low-stress area you might be ok for the long run.
After reading your post I got a bit paranoid about using the wrong filler and went back and checked and it turns out the filler is actually nickel-silver. Is that the same as silver? Or do I purely need silver?
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Ha, lucky you, nickel-silver is perfect for this application! Its actually used a lot on stainless.
But, as you found out, it takes more heat (600-700 degrees higher than regular silver filler) to get it to flow, and its harder to file/finish.
But, as you found out, it takes more heat (600-700 degrees higher than regular silver filler) to get it to flow, and its harder to file/finish.
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Ha that's a major understatement! I started with a hand-file and after an hour of work I barely made a dent so moved to the angle grinder, which was super scary since the one I have is kind of large and not built for delicate operations like this.
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How do you know what size you need the tube splitter or Coupler? where can you get the rear cog to make a miche pistard be able to work with belt? did you need to adjust dropouts?