TakingMyTime

First, no I don't mean the whole inner cable (let's get that out of the way first).

I was sitting thinking about installing a new cable set and what I could do to dress up the exposed bare cable? I was first thinking of just some black inner cable over it but then I thought there might be too much vibration and if not secured I would hear it rattling around. Then it struck me, I have tons of heat shrink tubing that I use to dress up the underside of the amplifiers I build and thought why not use that. I could actually pick my color and overlap and stagger several colors for different designs (ok, that might be taking it a little over the top). Obviously I would have to cut those sections out when removing the cable thus rendering it useless, but other than that what downsides do you see?

TMT

79pmooney

Mixing hobbies! I like it. I spent many years sailing and used to build boats. I am quite comfortable epoxying things on my bikes where appropriate. (Even a CF wrap to save a bike about to break both chainstays behind the bridge. That repair has 8000 miles on it.)

I'm a hack with the electrical stuff, so my cables will stay bare but I'd like to see your work. And saving paint/allowing the bike to be picked up by the DT w.o worry? Yeah! All my bikes have full length rear brake housings for that reason. I like my fix gears because they do not care what tube I pick them up by. Those geared bikes are so fussy!

I do have a beautiful, old-school built but new, tube amp built by a guy recommended to me so I can appreciate what good work looks like (and sounds like).

Edit: And back to sailing - if my bike can be improved with cord, twine, sewing awl and waxed thread, I'm there. For about 10 years I hung a cable lock inside the diamond with cord and jib hanks. Really secure, out of the way and quick in and out. My latest has nice big cable bends that would interfere with my knees climbing, so some waxed twine keeps the rear housing in place. I regularly wrap my DTs with turk's head rings (like we kids made in the 60s) to keep derailleur cables off the paint. And of course, tool bags can always be improved. One has straps and velcro to hold a fix gear wrench plus spare cogs, another some additional support to improve its hang.

Ben

HillRider

If you have heat shrink tubing that will fit over the cables, why not leave it alone and not shrink it? That way you will be able to remove it in the future without cutting. I bought a pack of Shimano's cable housing liner to do the same thing, cover the exposed inner wire, and it works very well and is quiet. It's a lot better than the little rubber donuts that always migrate to one cable stop or the other.

Velocivixen

I bought a 1955 Phillips English 3 speed bike ALL original and the normally exposed shift cable (past the fulcrum clip) had clear (yellowed), very tightly fit housing on it. I bought some clear flexible heat shrink from Digi Key when I replaced the cable and it looks like the exact original. I bought two different sizes and the smaller of the two fit perfectly. It doesn't slide on the cable, but is tight to the cable. Go for it.

Edit : you can cut it if you use a sharp exacto knife and cut length wise very carefully. Ask me how I know this.

dedhed

Or just shrink the last 1/4" or so to keep it in place

FBinNY 

Shrinking cosmetic spaghetti over exposed brake wires was fairly popular BITD, and works very well. There's no reason you can't do the same for gear wires. For either, be careful to estimate the cable's travel, an end the covers short so they don't interfere.

I still do this for the brake cable of one of my bikes because it scratches the top when I carry the bike. I prefer shrink tubing to the clumsy donuts that were faddish a while back because those never work right anyway.

JohnDThompson 

Yes, that was standard practice on British 3-speed for many years, particularly on the fixed-length shift cables. Here it is on my 1972 Superbe:

dsbrantjr

Teflon "spaghetti" tubing as used in the electronics industry can also be used. I have used it where a shift wire runs under the BB shell (broken/missing guide) to keep the wire from marring the paint.

SkyDog75

I've used heat shrink at the ends of cables to keep them from fraying. Works fine. The only possible down side I can think of is the possibility of trapping moisture, which might promote rust if you're not using stainless cables.

CroMo Mike 

A short bit of heat shrink tubing makes a nice finisher in place of those crimp-on aluminum cable-end caps. Leave a little of the shrink tube past the end of the cable when you shrink it so no sharp wire strands stick out.

Edit: looks like Skydog beat me to it!

fietsbob

ran taillight wiring down the FD Bare cable with the housing Liner tubing and spiraled the wire around it, the cable still slipped easily within the tubing

Bare cable rattling is also cured with those little plastic-rubber doughnuts on the bare wire ..

actually shrinking the tube it has to have bare ends so the cable motion is not impeded ..

dedhed

I like this as it allows more color to match frame, bar wrap, seat, whatever.

Ronno6

Yup. What dedhed said.
I used to color match derailleur cables that I could not get in brown to brake cables that I could (or...vice-versa-I can't remember.)
Not exact, but looks great anyway!

HillRider

Yeah, until they all migrate to one end or the other of the bare wire and then do nothing to prevent rattling.

fietsbob

In an Hour? .. with out you noticing ?, its not their fault you just were not bothering to pay attention..
get out the Tubasti..

HillRider

Actually, they do it overnight while I'm asleep and hope I won't notice the next day. Sneaky little devils.

headloss 

I did my cables with a clear heat shrink, but dirt can still get underneath it and it starts to look like crap. I wouldn't bother heat shrinking the ends either, as they tend to eventually fall off, superglue is longer lasting and simpler (I usually solder mine).

Looigi

Me too.

Grand Bois

My donuts don't move at all. Maybe it's the super glue.