Why No Comfort All Trail Type Bikes With Top End Gearing?
04-11-24, 12:22 PM
#51
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You might want to look through their post history before you rush to defend them. Even then, this one thread. Whee doggie. What a mess. New to it all? I don't think so. People that talk about carbon framesets and electronic shifting are not, 'new to it all' and should deffo know most of the basic vernacular and conventions. No excuse for all of this confusion and the enemies it creates.
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04-11-24, 12:27 PM
#52
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I'm a bit late to this conversation, but it's interesting to note that a lot of 'hybrid / fitness / urban' bikes have very short reaches to provide an upright riding position. This makes their frame geometries actually rather similar to some gravel bikes. The Trek FX and Checkpoint mentioned above are a good example. Looking at the geometry specs the frame reach and stack are within 1 cm for comparable sizes of the two bike models. A similar sort of comparison can be made between the Specialized Sirrus X (hybrid) and Diverge (gravel) bikes, and probably between hybrid and gravel offerings from other manufacturers as well. This means that if you don't mind tinkering then bikes with these sorts of geometries are reasonable targets for drop bar to flat bar conversion (or vice versa).
Of course it's easier / simpler / cheaper to just buy the bike you want and not mess about with modifications, but if like the OP you can't find what you're looking for this does open up the options a bit.
Of course it's easier / simpler / cheaper to just buy the bike you want and not mess about with modifications, but if like the OP you can't find what you're looking for this does open up the options a bit.
04-11-24, 01:53 PM
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I want the eTap over the included gearing because as I understand it I can shift under load, which sounds great for pumping up a hill and the shifts, I assume, would be smoother, faster and more accurate. Plus it looks cool and I think it would get me out for more fitness rides.
04-11-24, 02:12 PM
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04-11-24, 02:18 PM
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Bad joke. They put you more upright than the flat bar. When I want to go low I grab the flat bar.
The bar ends are actually for my wife who gets this bike when the new one arrives. She likes an upright stance more than I do.
The bar ends are actually for my wife who gets this bike when the new one arrives. She likes an upright stance more than I do.
04-11-24, 03:03 PM
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A lot also depends on how close you are to "average" in your dimensions. If you've got really long legs but a short torso and/or arms, then you might go with a smaller frame than your inseam would suggest, but that gives you lower stack height and to get comfortable you might need a stack of spacers and an upturned stem. But if that's your problem, you'd want to go for a bike that already has a fairly high stack and short reach. Putting the guy I've just described on a downsized aero bike, then having to raise the bars several inches just looks... off.
That blog post received many disputatious replies. I'll just note that I came to the same conclusion fairly early in my bike shop days. I also figured out that, usually, the appropriate frame size for the (racing) bike increased a centimeter for every inch of increased height (compared to my own height).
I think Kontact said that he noticed the same relationship early in his shop days. Though I might be misremembering. If so, apologies.
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04-11-24, 03:08 PM
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Dave Moulton said on his blog some years ago that, after several years of sizing customers to his frames, he arrived at the conclusion that the customer's height was almost always a reliable indicator of the proper frame size. Long legs meant short torso; short legs meant long torso. Knowing the customer's overall height, he said, got him in the ballpark for both the seat tube and top tube lengths.
That blog post received many disputatious replies. I'll just note that I came to the same conclusion fairly early in my bike shop days. I also figured out that, usually, the appropriate frame size for the (racing) bike increased a centimeter for every inch of increased height (compared to my own height).
I think Kontact said that he noticed the same relationship early in his shop days. Though I might be misremembering. If so, apologies.
That blog post received many disputatious replies. I'll just note that I came to the same conclusion fairly early in my bike shop days. I also figured out that, usually, the appropriate frame size for the (racing) bike increased a centimeter for every inch of increased height (compared to my own height).
I think Kontact said that he noticed the same relationship early in his shop days. Though I might be misremembering. If so, apologies.
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04-11-24, 10:47 PM
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You should try an automatic 2spd “kickback” hub, because that’s exactly how they work!
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04-11-24, 11:13 PM
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04-12-24, 02:38 PM
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If you're not coasting or stopped, you get a guaranteed seamless shift with a slight backpedal on the Alfine. It's a habit now, I don't even think about it.
I am looking forward to being able to shift while pumping the pedal on the SRAM Eagle AXS. The only real complaint I've read about is shifting with gloves and in winter I do ride with heavy mitts.
I am looking forward to being able to shift while pumping the pedal on the SRAM Eagle AXS. The only real complaint I've read about is shifting with gloves and in winter I do ride with heavy mitts.
04-12-24, 02:49 PM
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Well, after visiting 2 bike shops this morning I'm flip-flopping again and ordering an Orbea Alma M-Ltd with the rigid fork and the SRAM Eagle AXS. It was sold to me as a good mix of gravel/road with the right tire and seating adjustments that I am assured will be included once the bike arrives. Here's hoping as it's a custom order so no returns.
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(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
04-12-24, 04:36 PM
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Dog doesn't look very aero. You should shave it to save watts.
