dweenk

A couple of years ago one was for sale at a Delaware beach town, but the asking price was so dear that I didn't reply to the ad. I wonder how many were sold. The price was around $200 back around 1970 and that was a lot of money; plus Sears was not the go to place for a good bicycle in my mind.

dweenk

More photos:
The front hub and notice the spokes as well


The rear hub, notice the spokes

Other stuff

juvela

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do rims match?

have not before seen the 40 code marked on the barrel of the Normandy Sport hub

front hub appears to have the Union U in a shield logo marked on the lateral face of the drive side flange

barrel will likely be unmarked

there are three threads showing on the adjustable bottom bracket cup

this may indicate that shell is under width

or it may indicate that assembly performed with a five series spindle intended for 70-71 mm shells

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dweenk

The rims appear to match to the eye, but when I rub a finger across the profile the front rim profile is more rounded than the rear. The seller had a ladies bike with a similar front wheel. I wonder if the wheels were swapped at some time past.

Oh man, the things you don't notice when buying a bike.

markk900

That is a first generation Crane if that helps at all.....I had one as an upgrade on my AO-8 around 1973.

juvela

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a front hub from Union Frondenberg would fit right in with a cycle manufactured in Oesterreich

symbol am seeing on flange is this one





does rear hub exhibit groove indicating BSC thread?

have you been able to read any markings on rims?

are both Schrader drilled?

due to the good res of the images thought would be able to read the spoke logos but alas they are obscured by rust

on one wheel they look like they may be a crescent which is one of the symbols for Robergel

had expected Union there as well

is drive chain Union?

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Pcampeau

I had one of these pass through my hands a couple of years ago. Here is the Reynolds decal.

dweenk

Both rims are drilled for Schraeder valve stems and I can't see any marking opposite the valve hole. It's getting dark now so I will get back to this tomorrow. I was able to remove both drop-out adjusters without damage, and have straightened the bent screw nearly well enough. Another task for tomorrow.

mcgeez

dweenk, I noticed your post. I still have a vintage Free Spirit model 503.47448.0 purchased new 11/26/1976. I have the owners manual and sales receipt and if I can be of any help in your efforts happy to oblige. It's a great ride, Reynolds 531 weighs in at only 26.5 lbs.
I even did a couple Columbia Triathlons up there in MD some years back. Since I clicked 80 last year I gave up roading, moved to a hybrid and stick to the trails now. The Free Spirit is just hanging in the garage gathering dust.
I tried to attach a photo but not allowed yet since I'm a newbee on the site per the message I got. Anyhow, good luck

juvela

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one question he has asked which has not as yet been answered is what the stock stem was

suspect his example several years earlier than yours so kitting may well have differed...

thanks for posting and welcome to the forum!

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3speedslow

The frame is gold, likes it’s colour! Give it some better components!

Any markings on the wingnuts?

dweenk

No markings on the wingnuts.

CO_Hoya 

Pic assist:

juvela

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thank you for the pic assist!

front hub of pictured cycle appears to be Normandy Sport - a match for the rear hub of subject bike

interesting that brake arrangement offers no quick release

long nut mounting rear brake caliper suggests that brake bridge may be ESGE plate style

machine certainly appears too early for a 1976 date - perhaps it was old stock when purchased new...

dating -

here is the VB listing for the first edition of the Crane model rear mech; a launch date of 1973 is given:

​​​​​​VeloBase.com - Component: Shimano Crane D-501

this date sounded slightly late to me so checked with disraeligears.co.uk who give a launch date of 1971:

​​​​​​Shimano Crane derailleur (DR-101)

disraeli explains that the same mech was described in manufacturer materials as both the model DR-101 and as the model D-501

the back side of the Sakee Ringyo crank arms should exhibit a date marking:

Date of Manufacture of Bicycle Components can be used to date a bike: component dating

headset:

closely resembles that of the Alatet from Britain, a nicer design and finish than that seen on base model Steyr and Puch badged products:



the Brampton Alatet from Britain:



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dweenk

I had the bike pretty much stripped down until I cut the end of my thumb. So I am workng wirh a paw on the left and a hand on the right for a few days.

mcgeez

Also thanks for the pic assist.
Quite possible it was old stock when purchased in 1976. Sears in Moorestown NJ discounted it $50 off the list $229.99.
The serial number is 4713157 if that is any help.
The seat post diameter measures one inch and uses a sleeve to fit to the seat tube.

dweenk

I checked the date code on the SR crank arms. In the circle there is a 1 at the 2 o'clock position and an 8 at 8 o'clock. Crank arm length is 171.5mm.
I don't see any markings on the drive chain plates.
The drop-outs and fork ends are Shimano.

dweenk

Thanks for your post. I may pick your brain about some of the original components. I still need to de-crud and decode dates on parts. I think my bike is early 70's, and maybe date codes will reveal the truth.
I do have one question. Who manufactured the derailleurs and stem on your bike?

dweenk

Minor work on the bike today.
Major work was getting the second Covid Vax for me and my lovely wife. That accomplished, we came home and had a nice egg salad sandwich. My next task is to prep the salmon, potatoes, and aspasagus for dinner.
I'll let my wife handle the knives.

mcgeez

dweenk, Rear derailleur is Shimano Crane.
I'll try to post a pic of the front cage plate, can't quite decipher the logo. Maybe I can get a pic assist again, still short of my 10 post threshold.
Stem is "AVA"

CO_Hoya 

Pic assist (it’s what I do):


That appears to be a Shimano Titlist front derailleur (Velobase link).

dweenk

I gave the frame its first bath today. WD-40 to soften the crud on the dropouts and chainstays before dishwashing liqiud in water. It's better now and I can handle it without gloves. I still am unable to remove the top tube cable guides even after a good dosing of PB Blaster. I may have to resort to a Dremel cut-off wheel for that, but I had one of them fly apart a couple of years ago. It ruined a perfectly good pair of goggles, and was probably my fault.



Anyone have a recommendation for removing 30 year old electrical tape from seat stays?

dweenk

I haven't really looked closely at the wheels until today. I knew that they didn't match, but now I believe that the rear wheel is origional and the front is not. The rear rim is slightly magnetic - "rims of lightweight steel alloy" - as the catalog said. I am thinking that the rim is stainless steel, though it has a few spots of rust. The spokes are clean, maybe zinc coated? The front rim is aluminum, the hub is steel/alloy, nothing special, and the spokes are rust on a stick.
I have wheels; some are steel, some are alloy, and most are 700C. I am rethinking how to put this back together.

dweenk

The rear hub is Normandy, stamped 40 below the manufacturer's name, and the rim is Araya. The front hub barrel is too rusty to read a name. After wire brushing it, I still can't see a name. The rim is Weinmann, Belgium.
The freewheel is Shimano.

dweenk

I found a pair of matching rims in my stash today. They're not age appropriate and the spokes are rusty, but they'll do for now. The rear freewheel is a six speed, so I am thinking of a 1 by 6.
The original Maxi crank is swaged so I'll clean it and stash it with the other original parts. Then I propose to use a more modern crank with a small chainring - 46 or so teeth. I will use the original Weinmann brakes, but I am going to change the bars and stem (the stem wasn't original anyhow) so it will have flat or upright bars.