Today I (v2):
Senior Member
Today I am building wheels for a buddy. All City New Shreriff SL hubs, 4x DT Swiss Comp spokes, brass nips, HPlusSon Archetype hard ano rims. Rear came out sweet, now back to the front.
Gold chains on everything
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 427
Bikes: Heavy Pedal Zephyr, '16 Mash Work, '14 Cinelli Parallax, C-Dale Synapse Disc
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I have yet to do it, but building a set of wheels is something I'd like to tackle one of these days.
Painfully average.
THE STUFFED
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 12,671
Bikes: R. Sachs Road; EAI Bareknuckle; S-Works Enduro
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 361 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 20 Times
in
17 Posts
A handful of bikes have come and go since then, here's one:
Painfully average.
Brown Jersey Winner
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: The Bad Woods.
Posts: 8,797
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 243 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 13 Times
in
13 Posts
Excellent!
Between the REI site and Amazon, I feel I have a pretty good handle on things now and have started making notes on how to carry everything on the bike.
For a sleeping bag, I'm considering one of those zipless ones but need to investigate once I get to the store.
Sierra Designs Backcountry Bed 1.5-Season Sleeping Bag - REI.com
Right now my biggest concern is what to eat. Living off of clif bars doesn't sound that great, so I need find some good portable food...and then a way to cook it. I figure REI should be able to help with that as well.
Thanks for all your help with this. I haven't been camping in almost 10 years, and when I used to do it often in college, my packing was usually a case of beer and some brats.
Between the REI site and Amazon, I feel I have a pretty good handle on things now and have started making notes on how to carry everything on the bike.
For a sleeping bag, I'm considering one of those zipless ones but need to investigate once I get to the store.
Sierra Designs Backcountry Bed 1.5-Season Sleeping Bag - REI.com
Right now my biggest concern is what to eat. Living off of clif bars doesn't sound that great, so I need find some good portable food...and then a way to cook it. I figure REI should be able to help with that as well.
Thanks for all your help with this. I haven't been camping in almost 10 years, and when I used to do it often in college, my packing was usually a case of beer and some brats.
before i got into the bikepacking i hadnt been camping since the boy scouts, so i know where youre coming from
just bring real food, my "treat yoself" items are avocados, coffee, and bourbon. if youre gonna cook, look for things that are simple and require you to basically just add water. i love couscous and oatmeal, anythign with a lot of flavor and sodium after a long day of riding. the best dehydrated meals brand is backpackers pantry - i highly recommend pad thai!
and like @rex615 says tortillas & PB are essential items. dont forget hotsauce either. gas station packets of this that and the other thing are great for camping
msr pocket rocket or trangia alchohol stove, cant go wrong with either
re: sierra sleeping bag - take note of the packed size, which is almost 12L in volume, thats essentially my entire seatbag. not a big deal tho if you just bungee it to a rear rack but something to keep in mind
Last edited by Mumonkan; 01-16-16 at 05:09 PM.
canis lupus familiaris
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 2,254
Bikes: En plus one
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Today i am almost finished with this one. It still has a radial bump of about 2 mm that i can't get out. Unfortunately it is at the joint, so i am probably going to have to live with it. Cheap third world wheels, YGWYPF.
The hub "slice and splice" worked well, I was worried the bearing races wouldn't be parallel (cup and cone) but the wheel spins nicely.
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: SD
Posts: 2,745
Bikes: Handsome Fredward, Trek 1.1
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 481 Post(s)
Liked 131 Times
in
47 Posts
You should try it it can be fun and rewarding. I build my own wheels, but will pay my LBS to build them if it is nice stuff, he is much better at it than I am. For example, he built my dynamo hub, plus he ordered the spokes and the wheel.
Today i am almost finished with this one. It still has a radial bump of about 2 mm that i can't get out. Unfortunately it is at the joint, so i am probably going to have to live with it. Cheap third world wheels, YGWYPF.
The hub "slice and splice" worked well, I was worried the bearing races wouldn't be parallel (cup and cone) but the wheel spins nicely.
Today i am almost finished with this one. It still has a radial bump of about 2 mm that i can't get out. Unfortunately it is at the joint, so i am probably going to have to live with it. Cheap third world wheels, YGWYPF.
The hub "slice and splice" worked well, I was worried the bearing races wouldn't be parallel (cup and cone) but the wheel spins nicely.
Don't feel bad, the Archetype on my rear wheel has a small hop at the joint (imperceptible when riding), the front is perfect. They're older Archetypes before they added material at the nipple bed. If I ever ding that rear rim or something maybe I'll replace it.
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Seattlish
Posts: 2,751
Bikes: SWorks Stumpy, Haibike Xduro RX, Crave SS
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 514 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 12 Times
in
8 Posts
I saw the only other fully rigid SS MTB I have seen on the trails near me. And, it was the frame and forks I wanted to build my bike with, the Niner frame and forks. Absolutely beautiful! But, he told me that he has had to replace the frame due to a crack. And, one of my friends had to replace his full squish Niner frame recently, due to a crack. Maybe I got lucky not finding one???
canis lupus familiaris
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 2,254
Bikes: En plus one
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
That's impressive, really. how did you face the insides of the hub shell?
Don't feel bad, the Archetype on my rear wheel has a small hop at the joint (imperceptible when riding), the front is perfect. They're older Archetypes before they added material at the nipple bed. If I ever ding that rear rim or something maybe I'll replace it.
Don't feel bad, the Archetype on my rear wheel has a small hop at the joint (imperceptible when riding), the front is perfect. They're older Archetypes before they added material at the nipple bed. If I ever ding that rear rim or something maybe I'll replace it.
I mounted the hub on a fork and used a scribe as a "pseudo lathe" to get accurate marking of the centerline and the cut lines. Then I used a hacksaw on the hub as I turnrd it to get fairly square/perpendicular cuts.
I used a piece of steel tube whose OD was very close to the ID of the hub. This basically lined it all up. This is a cast aluminium hub, so i had to clean up some flashing and mold marks on the inside using a dremel.
I used spokes thru the spoke holes to ensure the symmetry of the flanges. I put an axle with cones and bearings to help parallel the bearing races. It held everything in place while the epoxy set up.
I wanted matching wheels and I couldn't find a 75mm hub in 36 holes so I cut one. Kind off a silly project, but then a fixed gear folder is silly anyway.
You can see the insert.
The joint looks fairly tidy
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 667
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 16 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 42 Times
in
12 Posts
Is the epoxy enough to keep water out?
You may want to pick up a tube of clear silicone caulk and smear it in the gap for extra weatherproofing.
I like silicone roofing (or "flashing") caulk because it's super water proof and strong...the stuff can take abuse and still keep water out.
You may want to pick up a tube of clear silicone caulk and smear it in the gap for extra weatherproofing.
I like silicone roofing (or "flashing") caulk because it's super water proof and strong...the stuff can take abuse and still keep water out.
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Gnv, FL
Posts: 1,890
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
canis lupus familiaris
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 2,254
Bikes: En plus one
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Thanks, that is good idea, but I don't think it will be necessary. The epoxy is impermeable and it wasn't only applied at the seam. The inside of the hub wall and the outside of the splice tube were coated in epoxy before assembly. Water would have to travel sideways, more than a centimeter in the space between the splice tube and the hub wall and that space is filled with epoxy.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
Thanks, since you ask, I will bore you with the details:
I mounted the hub on a fork and used a scribe as a "pseudo lathe" to get accurate marking of the centerline and the cut lines. Then I used a hacksaw on the hub as I turnrd it to get fairly square/perpendicular cuts.
I used a piece of steel tube whose OD was very close to the ID of the hub. This basically lined it all up. This is a cast aluminium hub, so i had to clean up some flashing and mold marks on the inside using a dremel.
I used spokes thru the spoke holes to ensure the symmetry of the flanges. I put an axle with cones and bearings to help parallel the bearing races. It held everything in place while the epoxy set up.
I wanted matching wheels and I couldn't find a 75mm hub in 36 holes so I cut one. Kind off a silly project, but then a fixed gear folder is silly anyway.
You can see the insert.
The joint looks fairly tidy
I mounted the hub on a fork and used a scribe as a "pseudo lathe" to get accurate marking of the centerline and the cut lines. Then I used a hacksaw on the hub as I turnrd it to get fairly square/perpendicular cuts.
I used a piece of steel tube whose OD was very close to the ID of the hub. This basically lined it all up. This is a cast aluminium hub, so i had to clean up some flashing and mold marks on the inside using a dremel.
I used spokes thru the spoke holes to ensure the symmetry of the flanges. I put an axle with cones and bearings to help parallel the bearing races. It held everything in place while the epoxy set up.
I wanted matching wheels and I couldn't find a 75mm hub in 36 holes so I cut one. Kind off a silly project, but then a fixed gear folder is silly anyway.
You can see the insert.
The joint looks fairly tidy
Now please trim that axle down to an appropriate length. It's sending my OCD into orbit.
Senior Member
However...
Do you mean you lined the holes up, left flange to right? Because usually, spoke holes left to right are offset by half spacing, so that if you held the hub upright, a spoke through the top flange would fall directly between two holes in the bottom one, not through one...
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Seattlish
Posts: 2,751
Bikes: SWorks Stumpy, Haibike Xduro RX, Crave SS
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 514 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 12 Times
in
8 Posts
Brown Jersey Winner
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: The Bad Woods.
Posts: 8,797
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 243 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 13 Times
in
13 Posts
rode fatty to the beach, on the beach, on some singletrack, on an assload of rocks, over logs, through the mud, up hills, down hills, in the ****ing ocean.
still have not found its limits.
still have not found its limits.
canis lupus familiaris
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 2,254
Bikes: En plus one
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Above and beyond, man, nice project.
However...
Do you mean you lined the holes up, left flange to right? Because usually, spoke holes left to right are offset by half spacing, so that if you held the hub upright, a spoke through the top flange would fall directly between two holes in the bottom one, not through one...
However...
Do you mean you lined the holes up, left flange to right? Because usually, spoke holes left to right are offset by half spacing, so that if you held the hub upright, a spoke through the top flange would fall directly between two holes in the bottom one, not through one...
I checked the hub before I cut it using the spokes and it seemed to be symmetric so I tried to duplicate that.
However...
it is quite possible I got it wrong. Though if it was half spacing, I would have noticed...maybe.
I'll posted a pic with the upgrades here.
Not actually Tmonk
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 14,135
Bikes: road, track, mtb
Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2639 Post(s)
Liked 3,153 Times
in
1,660 Posts
for which bike?
__________________
"Your beauty is an aeroplane;
so high, my heart cannot bear the strain." -A.C. Jobim, Triste
"Your beauty is an aeroplane;
so high, my heart cannot bear the strain." -A.C. Jobim, Triste
Brown Jersey Winner
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: The Bad Woods.
Posts: 8,797
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 243 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 13 Times
in
13 Posts
today i realized in the past 6 months or so i met a whole bunch of awesome bike people and made some solid friends
bikes are the ****.
bikes are the ****.