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Setting up / adjusting cantilever brakes 😬

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Setting up / adjusting cantilever brakes 😬

Old 10-27-20, 04:00 PM
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sovende
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Setting up / adjusting cantilever brakes 😬

I've been procrastinating setting up and adjusting the cantilever brakes on the Miyata Two Ten I acquired last month. The OEM brakes are Dia-Compe 960s. The original Dia-Compe red rubber pads were "rock hard". My LBS had some "generic" ones and I bought them. I'm guessing the Dia-Compe 960s are not top of the line cantis but they do have some degree of adjustment allowed by the convex and concave washers on either side of the brake arm. I have what I consider above average mechanical skills but I have to admit that these brakes are a real beast to setup . It seems like three hands (maybe four) are needed to do the job! The generic pads may be part of the problem but certainly not all of it. If anyone has any tips or hints on this subject, I would certainly be grateful. When I first looked at the mechanism of the convex and concave washers and corresponding surfaces on the brake arms, I though it would be relatively easy. I spent about an hour struggling with getting reasonable alignment with a slight amount of "toe-in" before I needed a beer to calm my nerves! I hope someone can help me out .
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Old 10-27-20, 04:54 PM
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Third hand tool: https://www.amazon.com/Third-Hand-Br.../dp/B0787T5KWD Makes it easier to position/secure the pads
Fourth hand tool: https://www.amazon.com/IceToolz-Four...dp/B0028N57KK/ I set the brake cable length to put the straddle cable carrier (I don't use link wires, hate 'em) where I want it with the adjuster on the cable hanger screwed out one turn and then use the straddle cable length to position the pads where I want them using the 4th hand tool, then tighten the clamp bolt.. It is a tougher job if you have a fixed-length straddle cable like your 960s, you need to set the pad spacing with the brake cable length.
If you want toe-in (I don't bother) put a rubber band around the rear of the brake pad.
Edit: Probably leave the third hand holding the pads to the rim, secure everything and take off the third hand. The slack in the system will likely get you close.
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Old 10-27-20, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by dsbrantjr
Third hand tool: https://www.amazon.com/Third-Hand-Br.../dp/B0787T5KWD Makes it easier to position/secure the pads
Fourth hand tool: https://www.amazon.com/IceToolz-Four...dp/B0028N57KK/ I set the brake cable length to put the straddle cable carrier (I don't use link wires, hate 'em) where I want it with the adjuster on the cable hanger screwed out one turn and then use the straddle cable length to position the pads where I want them using the 4th hand tool, then tighten the clamp bolt.. It is a tougher job if you have a fixed-length straddle cable like your 960s, you need to set the pad spacing with the brake cable length.
If you want toe-in (I don't bother) put a rubber band around the rear of the brake pad.
Edit: Probably leave the third hand holding the pads to the rim, secure everything and take off the third hand. The slack in the system will likely get you close.
I have the ParkTool versions of both of those tools! Plus the ParkTool BT-5 which allow a more solid clamping action . The problem that I'm having is after I get the pads positioned in what I believe is a good position in relation the rim of the wheel, tightening the 10mm nut that secures the post of the brake pad to the brake arm tends to "pitch" the pad out of the desired position. On the right side, it "pitches" down, on the left side, up! Very frustrating . Even if I place the bit holder of a 4-in-1 screwdriver over the outside of the post in an attempt to keep the pad aligned, the pad become misaligned.
I've been worrying about getting toe-in but now I'm just trying to get reasonable alignment. I'm going to try the rubber band spacer on the rear of the pad.
I do like the fixed-length straddle cable on the 960s if only for the sleek look . I'm not sure of what is meant by "link wires" ? Once I can get the pads positioned properly, I think I can get the rest of the set up squared away using my 4th hand tool. I'm thinking that I should set the barrel adjusters to near their "shortest" position. That should allow me to lengthen the housing/shorten the cable to compensate for pad seating and/or cable stretch.
Thanks for the tips! I'll attack the problem again tomorrow! I'm anticipating replies that suggest upgrading the brakes to V-brakes or maybe center pulls (it may be a solution in the end) but I'd like to retain the OEM configuration if possible on this bike. The major short coming of the Dia-Compe 960 seems to be that (when viewed from the side) it lacks a proper "pitch" adjustment, has minimal "yaw" adjustment BUT a full 360 degrees of "roll" which, in this case, is almost worthless!

Last edited by sovende; 10-27-20 at 07:09 PM.
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Old 10-27-20, 07:18 PM
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Link Wire: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/canti-trad.html#yoke
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Old 10-27-20, 10:32 PM
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The Park Tool YouTube channel was a great help for me! Lots of good simple info, and easy to follow along.
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Old 10-28-20, 08:31 AM
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I had a bike with canti brakes for over twenty years, and it took about that long, adjusting often and lots of shoe replacements, to get competent at it. It can be a complex, three-dimensional problem without a solid starting point. Good tips above. Persevere. I'd like to say it's worth it, but I can't. I never did get to like those brakes.

Many years ago I found this article about canti geometry that helped me fine-tune performance. No tool tips there, though, just theory.
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Old 10-28-20, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by dsbrantjr
Originally Posted by andrewclaus
I had a bike with canti brakes for over twenty years, and it took about that long, adjusting often and lots of shoe replacements, to get competent at it. It can be a complex, three-dimensional problem without a solid starting point. Good tips above. Persevere. I'd like to say it's worth it, but I can't. I never did get to like those brakes.

Many years ago I found this article about canti geometry that helped me fine-tune performance. No tool tips there, though, just theory.
Thanks to both for the Sheldon Brown links! Pored over the articles both last night and this morning. I think I have a reasonable understanding of the theory and geometry of cantilever set ups. Lack of "full adjustability" for the 960s may result in a "good enough" outcome.
To be sure, I won't be wrestling with the issue for twenty years!
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Old 10-28-20, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by dcee604
The Park Tool YouTube channel was a great help for me! Lots of good simple info, and easy to follow along.
Park Tool's Repair Help section of their website as well as the above suggested YouTube video were helpful indeed! Thanks
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Old 10-28-20, 09:35 AM
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Took me years to master my Tektro Oryx brakes. I keep straddle cable as short as possible without brakes dragging in order to get maximum braking. Doing so defeats the quick release straddle cable, but it's worth it. I use Kool Stop V brake pads.

To position pads and keep them from moving when tightening is the tricky part. I put a strip of inner tube around wheel and tire and tie it on top of tire, then turn wheel and slip it between back of pads for toe in. Then, with pads positioned properly and the fastener finger tight, just enough to hold them in place, I put a quick clamp with rubber faces on the brake arms and squeeze them until the pads are tight against rim. That frees up both hands. Grab the pad with left hand thumb and index finger to resist twisting (index under front of pad, thumb on top of rear), and tighten fastener with tool in right hand. No need to wrench it as tight as you might think. If you over do it, the pads will twist out of line despite your trying to hold them from moving.

Mine takes a five mm Allen wrench to tighten, so I carry one in seat bag at all times. I've only had to use it once on the road when I was experimenting to see how little torque on the fastener I could get away with. Hope this helps.
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Old 10-28-20, 06:00 PM
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So, this morning, after reading a couple of new posts to my thread, re-reading the Sheldon Brown articles and watching the ParkTool videos, I decided that today was "brake day" for the Miyata! One way or another those brakes were going to be set up and adjusted. I didn't really get into it until lunchtime and I did have a few errands to run so it didn't really take six hours but I did just finish up a little bit ago (~6 PM) .
I believe I've ended up with a decent set up. Final test will be tomorrow when I "road test"! I started with the rear brakes as there was more room to work. With the knowledge gleaned from Sheldon Brown, ParkTool and the folks that replied with hints and tips, my initial plan was to strive for perfection. It didn't take me long to fall back on the oft stated "the enemy of good is better"! I'm anticipating the need for tweaking and hoping that I'll get that done in less than 15-20 years . Against what may be the better judgement of many, I did keep all of the OEM components with the fixed-length straddle cable being an item in question RE: maximizing mechanical advantage of the system. Bikes have enough loose cable ends as it is, I didn't want two more .
Today's brake work was the last major hurdle in getting this bike road worthy. Sadly, as a mostly "fair weather" cyclist, it may be several months before I get to take it on a few day trips . Thanks to all that commented with hints and/or tips. They were useful!

Last edited by sovende; 10-28-20 at 07:17 PM.
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