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Old 02-25-18, 10:14 AM
  #4926  
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Originally Posted by SyntaxMonstr
Yup. Exactly.
I think this is what I'm using:

https://www.amazon.com/Oursunshine-L...tainers+travel
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Old 02-25-18, 10:42 AM
  #4927  
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Originally Posted by krispenhartung
Definitely no reason to buy those expensive gels. Same for electrolytes. People spend thousands on that stuff and you can make it in your own kitchen with salt and lemon/lime juice. For in-race fueling (not just recovery), I know many guys on the road side who just use dextrose, which I mention above as a simple sugar that absorbs quickly. I have a hard time eating and breathing on the bike, so I tend to just put my fuel in my water. I do the math on what my carb needs will be and put that much dextrose in my water. Honey is good too, which is a combo of fructose and dextrose (which converts to glucose in the blood). So dextrose is your most efficient "main line" carb to restoring glycogen in the muscles. You can buy these little squishy, re-usable bottles that will hold about 5oz of liquid and put both honey and dextrose in them. Bam! There you go.
You may want to have a read through the "cramping" thread and read up on electrolytes. Not because of cramping, but that there is more than just sodium and the other minerals play their parts too.
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Old 02-25-18, 11:42 AM
  #4928  
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Originally Posted by taras0000
You may want to have a read through the "cramping" thread and read up on electrolytes. Not because of cramping, but that there is more than just sodium and the other minerals play their parts too.
Well, I did mention electrolytes, so I should probably follow through with my philosophy on them. I don't use them. I've done centuries in 95-100 degrees, 40K TT at 103 degrees, and didn't need them. I've never cramped once on a ride, workout, or race. Most of the stuff that is in those electrolyte powders you can find in "real" food. So between a good diet and proper hydration, I've have no need to take electrolyte supplements.
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Old 02-25-18, 04:11 PM
  #4929  
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Originally Posted by krispenhartung
Well, I did mention electrolytes, so I should probably follow through with my philosophy on them. I don't use them. I've done centuries in 95-100 degrees, 40K TT at 103 degrees, and didn't need them. I've never cramped once on a ride, workout, or race. Most of the stuff that is in those electrolyte powders you can find in "real" food. So between a good diet and proper hydration, I've have no need to take electrolyte supplements.

If you don't need to supplement with them, then you don't need to. It's still a good read to know what and how electrolytes work in the body.

On the same note, just because not taking something doesn't produce a negative effect on you, doesn't mean that you wouldn't benefit from taking it. Look at how many supplements you're already downing that can all be basically had from "real food". In other words, you would be fine not taking the stuff and just eating real food, but you take it because you see a benefit from it.
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Old 02-26-18, 12:56 PM
  #4930  
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Can I use an alloy stem with carbon bar or would I be better going for carbon/carbon?
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Old 02-26-18, 01:05 PM
  #4931  
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Originally Posted by MrMinty
Can I use an alloy stem with carbon bar or would I be better going for carbon/carbon?
no worries mix/matching. If you go carbon on carbon it's best to use some carbon fibre grip paste.
Don't overtighten
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Old 02-26-18, 06:49 PM
  #4932  
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Even with aluminium, always use a torque wrench for seatpost, handlebar and stem.
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Old 03-06-18, 10:27 AM
  #4933  
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Pursuit grips for 3T Vola LTD Bars

I just picked up a new set of 3T Vola LTD bars for my Fuji Track Elite...lovely bars. The handles on these pursuit bars are not long at all, and using normal, even thin bar tape is sort of awkward. Is anyone using or can recommend a rubber of silicon bar grip that will basically roll on the bar and not require wrapping? Same on the aero bars, though I'm using very thin Fizik tape that looks and feels decent.
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Old 03-06-18, 10:45 AM
  #4934  
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I just use electrical tape on my bars (base and extensions) and find it plenty grippy. If you wanted something more tacky than that a roll of Hockey tape works well. (and is cheap and comes in lots of colors/designs.)
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Old 03-06-18, 11:44 AM
  #4935  
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Originally Posted by Morelock
I just use electrical tape on my bars (base and extensions) and find it plenty grippy. If you wanted something more tacky than that a roll of Hockey tape works well. (and is cheap and comes in lots of colors/designs.)
Great tip. I'm going to try the hockey tape. thanks
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Old 03-06-18, 01:13 PM
  #4936  
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Originally Posted by krispenhartung
Great tip. I'm going to try the hockey tape. thanks
Also consider Lizard Skins (or another brand) baseball bat tape. That's what I'm currently using on my Scattos. They come in varying thicknesses and can be found at most big sporting goods stores (Dick's, Hibbets, etc...). Someone here turned me on to it.

It's shorter than normal cycling grip tape.

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Old 03-06-18, 07:21 PM
  #4937  
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Originally Posted by Godsight
Even with aluminium, always use a torque wrench for seatpost, handlebar and stem.
I don't use a torque wrench, but similarly enough, I keep turning until I hear the "click".
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Old 03-06-18, 07:26 PM
  #4938  
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Originally Posted by krispenhartung
Great tip. I'm going to try the hockey tape. thanks
Use the white tape. The glue on hockey tape will creep through the fabric, and the black tape will get black glue all over your gloves.

I used the tape on my bars, and it's my favourite behind proper Keirin grips. I wrapped once from the top, pulled out a length and twisted it into a "rope", the wound that around back up to the top, the another layer of tape over that down to the corks for bar plugs.

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Old 03-06-18, 09:18 PM
  #4939  
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Originally Posted by taras0000
Use the white tape. The glue on hockey tape will creep through the fabric, and the black tape will get black glue all over your gloves.

I used the tape on my bars, and it's my favourite behind proper Keirin grips. I wrapped once from the top, pulled out a length and twisted it into a "rope", the wound that around back up to the top, the another layer of tape over that down to the corks for bar plugs.

When you say "white tape", which brand of white tape are you referring to? White hockey tape? Or another. Have you used the baseball lizard tape suggested by Carleton?
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Old 03-06-18, 10:38 PM
  #4940  
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Originally Posted by krispenhartung
When you say "white tape", which brand of white tape are you referring to? White hockey tape? Or another. Have you used the baseball lizard tape suggested by Carleton?
White hockey tape. Renfrew brand.
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Old 03-07-18, 03:40 AM
  #4941  
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Originally Posted by spartanKid
tennis racquet grip tape also fits this role nicely.
100%, I've started swearing by this recently. Basically grippy bar tape with no padding.
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Old 03-08-18, 01:44 PM
  #4942  
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I tried and quite like adhesive stair tread for pursuit bars. Since the grip area is so short I don't really want any margin for error and that stuff is basically just adhesive backed sandpaper, definitely no slipping!
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Old 03-09-18, 08:08 AM
  #4943  
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Originally Posted by carleton
Also consider Lizard Skins (or another brand) baseball bat tape. That's what I'm currently using on my Scattos. They come in varying thicknesses and can be found at most big sporting goods stores (Dick's, Hibbets, etc...). Someone here turned me on to it.

It's shorter than normal cycling grip tape.

I got some of this in. Great tip!This stuff works great. I’m using the 1.1mm for the aero bars and 1.8mm for pursuit. I have large hands (guitarist, remember? Ha ha) and so I need a little more to grab on to with the skinny 3T pursuit bars. I got the hockey tape too but I don’t like the feel of cloth on a bar.
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Old 03-09-18, 11:49 AM
  #4944  
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Originally Posted by rustymongrel
I tried and quite like adhesive stair tread for pursuit bars. Since the grip area is so short I don't really want any margin for error and that stuff is basically just adhesive backed sandpaper, definitely no slipping!
It's the combination of the shortness (length) and narrowness (diameter) of the pursuit bars that gets me given my large hands. I'm not sure at what point in time these short pursuit bars came into vogue. The pursuit bars on my TT bike don't have this issue and they are long enough to get my entire grip on them. And the diameter is an issue because by the time I wrap my fingers around them, there is overlap...meaning I can't actually grip them with full force...yet putting super think tape on a 4 inch bar is awkward.
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Old 03-09-18, 02:45 PM
  #4945  
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Profile aerobar tape? Aerobar grip bar tape
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Old 03-09-18, 04:05 PM
  #4946  
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Originally Posted by Poppit
Profile aerobar tape? Aerobar grip bar tape
Looks like that would work too. This lizard skin baseball bat tape is nice because it feels a lot like bar tape with a tad bit of padding (but very minimal), but unlike most bar tape, the entire back side is sticky vs. a small strip. Super easy to wrap on.
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Old 03-16-18, 04:04 PM
  #4947  
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Are track cleat positions largely the same as road (asking as a sprinter)?
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Old 03-16-18, 04:51 PM
  #4948  
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Originally Posted by southernfox
Are track cleat positions largely the same as road (asking as a sprinter)?
I try to set up identically but I'd be interested to hear if others have a different idea. Q factor is significantly wider on my road bike, could that change things?
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Old 03-16-18, 08:23 PM
  #4949  
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Originally Posted by southernfox
Are track cleat positions largely the same as road (asking as a sprinter)?
Originally Posted by Baby Puke
I try to set up identically but I'd be interested to hear if others have a different idea. Q factor is significantly wider on my road bike, could that change things?
Q-factor wasn't a consideration for me when I set up my cleats. I went with the cleats as far outward (to get a narrower stance) as my feet would allow without hitting the crank. As far as fore-aft track vs. road, my track cleats were set up about 5mm forward. Well, it was actually the reverse, I figured out what was best for track, and set my road cleats further back because I found for longer riders, it was a more sustainable position for road racing. My track shoes would have my calves tire out too soon, so I moved my road cleats back a little.

I never had my bikes set up identically, as I did do enough road racing to warrant a slight change from my primary position which was track.

My road position was 1cm shorter from BB to saddle, and 1.5cm further back. For track I was higher and more on top of the BB. This was cadence related. I would still spin at 105-110 rpm on the road when cruising in the pack, but being further back allowed more glute and hamstring recruitment at lower RPM for climbing and also kept a little more weight on the saddle so my arms wouldn't tire over longer rides. Being over the BB for sprinting allowed better high RPM pedaling. My track position allowed me to apply power effectively from about 2-o-clock down and through to about 5:30, and allowed for a strong upstroke from 7-o-clock to about 10-o-clock. My road position was more effective from about 1:30 through to 4-o-clock, and allowed for more back and up from about 5:30 to 8-o-clock.

It all boiled down to needs for the specific type of racing. I would regularly race crits that were 40-60km in length, and occasionally a few road races that were 60-100km long. This was enough to warrant a change for me. I could've deviated more, but I didn't want to throw off my pedaling mechanics that much when it came to track and sprinting.
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Old 03-16-18, 08:44 PM
  #4950  
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Sounds about right Taras. My roadbike is only for recovery and commuting, so I'm gonna stay same set up as track. Climbing??
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