rushncrush

Only adjusted the seat about 4-5 times and the bolt is already stripped.. I have been using the right tools, the allen wrench fit perfectly until it stripped so easily..

Why do $700+ bikes still use these cheap materials on the bolts? especially a bolt that could be used and adjusted a lot? My expensive bike is now completely useless as my seat is now sitting on the frame, which is WAY TO LOW!!!

1. How do I extract this bolt? Its stuck in there good yet not tight enough to keep seat in position

2. Can I just get a bolt replacement, or do I need a new seat post clamp? where to buy either of these

Thanks

Secret Squirrel

Not enough information. Picture?

LesterOfPuppets

What bike you got? Got pics of bolt?

FeltF2Tarmac

I doubt the bolt stripped, most likely the threads in the clamp. You could go to the bike shop if that's where you bought it. If you bought it on line it may be easier to just buy a new clamp. And go from there. I am not a big fan of single bolt clamps but that's just me. You could put a helicoil in the clamp but not sure vwhat you capable of or have access too.

rpenmanparker 

How is it stripped? The Allen hole is rounded? The threads are stripped or clamp threads are stipped or the bolt is actually broken into two pieces? I am assuming the hex hole is rounded. An easy-out will take it out if the hole is rounded. But usually the stripping only occurs in one direction, like for tightening. Normally removal is still possible even after the hole rounds off for tightening. Is your Allen wrench possibly rounded and that is the cause of the damage to the bolt? Also if the head of the bolt is exposed, you should be able to grab it tightly and unscrew it with a Vise Grip locking pliers. Same from the other end if the thread end of the bolt is exposed.

Finally you should consider the possibility that you were overtightening the bolt. You shouldn't need more than 6 Nm torque on the bolt to hold the saddle in place. And you should grease the bolt well before replacing it. By lowering the torque due to dry threads, you make sure that only enough torque to secure the saddle is required. That way you don't put too much stress on the hex hole.

datlas 

If you have a separate seat collar it's a cheap and easy fix. If integrated in your frame it may be a problem.

Not enough info to say whether you have a defective part or overdid it. Agree pics would help, but ultimately your best solution is take it back to the shop.

rmfnla

You cranked it too tight, plain and simple.

Don't feel bad, though; it's a common error.

Seat bolts only need to be snugged; the circular force of the clamp is very effective in holding the seat post securely.

A few photos will help us suggest a fix...

Sy Reene

I had some slippage issues with tightening at 6nm. Afraid of damaging anything (threads or clamp) added some assembly paste (for CF and alum). Helps a lot in making the tightness you're allowed, actually work.

rmfnla

Yeah, materials do matter. I'm a steel guy so I sometimes forget the issues that come with other types of frames...

Maelochs

I assume over-tightening (have done it myself.) Bikes nowadays come with lighter, more expensive alloy hardware and if you treat the bolts like steel, you will damage them---or damage whatever they screw into. Hopefully the bolt can be extracted and replaced, and the frame is not damaged.

TimothyH

If the collar is integrated with the seat tube and you stripped the hole in the bolt then use a Dremel to grind a slot into the head of the bolt and use a large flat tipped screwdriver to remove the bolt.

If you stripped the threads on the fastener then you are going to have to drill it out.

Gweedo1

Try using the tightest Torx bit you can tap in the bolt head if the hex key just spins. Failing that, there are extraction tools you can also try/buy.

FeltF2Tarmac

Still no picture or better description of issue, was it fixed?

SpeshulEd 

Worst case scenario, you drill out the bolt and replace the seatpost clamp. This is not that difficult.

FBinNY 

While the OP describes it as stripped -- implying threads -- I suspect he's referring to a rounded hex socket because he mentions using the right tools. If so, it's a relatively simple matter of removing the bolt by one of a number o methods and replacing it. Worst case, if he has a removable collar, would be replacing the whole collar.

No a serious crisis either way.

Vicegrip

I read his post the same. Camed/ rounded out socket head on the seat post bolt. Easy fix is as previously posted is to hammer tap in a snug fit Torx and back the bolt out. Another trick is to take the next size up allan key and grind the sides down a little at a time until it can be jammed into the socket. (I have a whole set of "oversize" allan bits just for this) Valve grinding paste has an odd but handy side effect. A little dab on a socket head or phillips head screw can increase the friction enough to allow removal before it cams out.

Another trick for split ring type seat post collars with camed out bolts is to compress the collar a bit with a padded C clamp placed on the sides and pressing the split together. Gently and carefully increase the pressure and keep testing the bolt. This will lower the torque required. If you can see the bolt in the split in the collar you can take a dremel with a cut off wheel and cut the bolt. Cut on the bolt head side so there is a stump you can grab on the threaded side.

Cheap tools are more likely to be loose than snug fit and loose socket head tools suck. A lot of allan keys are slightly tapered at the end. You can grind the tip down a bit and the fit tighter and bite a bit better. Don't let the metal heat as you remove metal. Grind a little and dip the tip in some water then grind off a little more.

StanSeven

I like these threads. Somebody posts a question. Then multiple responses ask questions or seek more information to help. Except the OP doesn't have the courtesy to respond. I understand people get busy but why ask if you know you don't have time to get back? It's been three days.

TimothyH

Shuffleman

And this is helpful?
This is always curious, isn't it?

That is actually awesome. I have never thought of that. If you do not have the right tools handy a little improvisation goes a long way. I had this happen at my office the other day and did not have access to much in the way of tools. I did have a dremel but did not think of this. I had to use vice grips and it took forever.

rmfnla

It's called conversation.

Posting on the Road Cycling forum doesn't mean you have to be a dick...

rmfnla

This is a basic repair technique, can also be done with a hacksaw.

Instead of being a dick you might want to cultivate friendships with those of us who can teach you something...

RPK79

Helpful!

rpenmanparker 

It is usually an angry poster. That is what I have noticed.

Shuffleman

The proper term would be Richard Head, but getting into name calling on a message forum is quite silly. Helpful is helpful. Your post essentially read---You should have bought steel like I do..... You may not have intended that to be the case but that is how I read it. If that makes me the adjective that you described, than so be it.

Elvo

Why are we talking about my favorite food?