Disc brakes are now the default on road bikes and no one cares
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Come to think of it, I remember seeing spacers that came with some rotors that I bought a couple years ago. Now, where the heck did I put them.
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#102
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Another advantage of disc brakes: it's much easier to adjust a rotor by a few micrometers than it is to adjust a rim by a few micrometers.
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One solution might be to go down the road I'm going . . . . keep my old bike with my comfy rim brakes and let the new-fangled bikes with disc brakes sit on the merchant shelves. Will this "boycott" ever work, No, because so many folks just gotta have the latest and greatest bicycle cycle, and they're willing to put up with the maintenance complications. Call me a curmudgeon or whatever, but I enjoy riding my bikes the old fashioned way and I have no complaints.
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#110
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Argh - this got too much content when I am too busy (sun is out in Chicago so bikes are stopping by all day). So to summarize my responses, "you are incorrect." and "that is correct" - Apply whichever to whatever post makes you feel good.
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BUT....
The general enthusiast market didn't fully switch to disc until the last 3 years. So much so that all of us in the business of selling bike upgrades all saw our business plummet. 2018 Q4 Zipp didn't pull a single spoke from our supplier. Now that they have balanced out the buying for the last 3 years we are seeing the upgrade requests start to come back. That drop was because everyone wanting an upgrade was having to basically go buy a new bike because so much had changed. Bike sales numbers will plummet in the next 2-5 years as people start to settle in and just buy upgrades instead of new bikes.
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Correct.... for shifting. Brake wise - and i believe you guys addressed this earlier, is a complete crap show for swapping unless you get to a couple of sets you always use and take the time to shim them all and have rotors with roughly the same thickness and wear on them.
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Correct.... for shifting. Brake wise - and i believe you guys addressed this earlier, is a complete crap show for swapping unless you get to a couple of sets you always use and take the time to shim them all and have rotors with roughly the same thickness and wear on them.
Cassette alignment is hit or miss when swapping between brands, and there's not much you can do about it. I suppose you could file the freehub body to make everything align perfectly.
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I recently got a new bike with hydraulic disc brakes. I like them a lot. They definitely stop better with less hand pressure. I cannot wait until SRAM comes out with cableless hydraulic brakes. As an added bonus, we get brake metrics on our Garmin.
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Which is why I brought this up; The plan I used to deal with the mismatch with cassettes is the same way I plan to deal with my 2nd pair of disc wheels. I will buy the same brand wheels. Solve the problem by not creating a problem.
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Chris King hubs are good but very expensive to run and maintain. I run Shimano because they have so many different levels to choose from and every shop knows how to work on them. Chris King hubs require some proprietary equipment that not all shops have.
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Sure disks work better with carbon rims. Modulation is a bit better than with rim brakes but not all that much more powerful than my rim brakes on aluminum rims.
I think that the real benefit has to do with greater flexibility in frame design and tire clearance. Road bikes with disks can now easily use 30 or 32 or larger tires, blurring the difference between a gravel bike and a more traditional road bike. Swap tires and or wheel set and go gravel or swap back and ride road with more comfort.
I think that the real benefit has to do with greater flexibility in frame design and tire clearance. Road bikes with disks can now easily use 30 or 32 or larger tires, blurring the difference between a gravel bike and a more traditional road bike. Swap tires and or wheel set and go gravel or swap back and ride road with more comfort.
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Anyway, not to make this a Jamis/Stan's question, as similar thought process or dilemma with a number of bike brands (ie. the stock brand wheelset, included with complete bike, may not be the same brand you'd normally elect to specify for a 2nd wheelset). Cervelo eg. uses Easton, Scott uses Syncros.
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I guess that's the best solution. I'm considering the one-bike approach with a new gravel bike as the base. Take an example like a Jamis Renegade.. the 15mm shallow alloy wheelset it comes with, I'd use for the gravel routes I might choose to do (probably with the 40mm tires it comes with). These are Stan's brand wheels, I think with Neo Ultimate hubs? For road, I'd like to be able shop around for a set of wheels, though same-hub solution would be a Stan's Avion Pro wheelset that doesn't look too bad on paper except pricey.
Anyway, not to make this a Jamis/Stan's question, as similar thought process or dilemma with a number of bike brands (ie. the stock brand wheelset, included with complete bike, may not be the same brand you'd normally elect to specify for a 2nd wheelset). Cervelo eg. uses Easton, Scott uses Syncros.
Anyway, not to make this a Jamis/Stan's question, as similar thought process or dilemma with a number of bike brands (ie. the stock brand wheelset, included with complete bike, may not be the same brand you'd normally elect to specify for a 2nd wheelset). Cervelo eg. uses Easton, Scott uses Syncros.
First, don't limit your wheel choice because of something that may or may not be a minor problem - the discs on my Domane's stock wheels were in agreement with my Assaults right off the bat (both CenterLock, though they don't always line up, according to the 'nets).
If they're not in agreement, you buy a set of shims, remove the lockring and rotor, pop on the required shims, put the rotor and lockring back on and confirm. Even if you don't quite get it right the first time, you're still talking less than 10 minutes per wheel.
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If cassette alignment is the concern, I'd try before buying. Derailleur adjustments aren't a huge hassle, but I wouldn't want to do it every time I wanted to swap wheels.
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Ah. Yeah, that hasn't been much of an issue for me, either. A few clicks of the barrel adjuster, that's about it. I also didn't swap wheels that frequently - the 28/30s that I normally ride on pavement are fine for shorter jaunts on gravel/dirt. I really only swap out when it's going to be a ride with significant gravel, which is more of an event ride, for me/in my area. Now that I have the R3, I'll just be using different bikes.
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