djdelarosa25

Hi! I bought my first road bike a month ago after two years of borrowing my father's bikes. It's not much, just an entry-level Giant Contend 2, but I think it fits my needs perfectly.

I find myself getting more into the sport now that I have my own bike. What first upgrades should I do? Here's a list of what I'm considering:

1. Saddle - The stock one is fine but I think I could get a comfier one.
2. Crankset - Came with a square-taper bottom bracket and crankset and I can sometimes feel it flex when sprinting or climbing out of the saddle. Planning on replacing it with the Claris crankset, if it's worth it.
3. Brakes - Nothing really wrong with the calipers so far (Tektro) but I've been reading how much better Shimano calipers are and they're pretty cheap around here.

These are the top things I've been considering. For tires, I think I'll wear out the stock ones first before I upgrade. Same goes for the wheels. I already have clipless pedals and a head unit. What do you guys suggest, should I save my money and just upgrade a part when it breaks, or should I spend some cash on at least one part?

Kapusta

Saddle... yes, IF you find one more comfortable for YOU. Just because a saddle is more expensive, does not mean you will find it more comfortable. This is a completely subjective thing. Just because someone else loves a saddle does not mean you will.

Crank: Waste of money at this point, IMO. Are you sure the flex you are feeling is the crankset and not the frame? I have gone from square taper to modern outboard bearings (New shimano 105) and while there is a small but perceivable difference in rigidity, it pales in comparison to the differences between frames.

Brakes: if you are happy with them, I’d leave them be. Are these tim brakes? Maybe try better pads. Nicer brakes feel better, but there are other places I would spend money first.

As far as what to spend money on...

Tires. High quality tires are the best performance bang for the buck I know of, and a place where a lot of new bikes cut corners. What model and size are you running and what size will your bike accommodate?. What kind of roads do you ride (mostly smooth, roughy, gravel/dirt)? I know you said you would wait till the ones you have wear out, but man, life is too short to spend thousands of miles on ***** tires.

Kapusta

Might also look at other drop bars to see if you might like a different shape. Won’t know unless you try, though. One of the best chages I have made to my road/gravel bike is going with Salsa Cowbell bars. Very slight flare that I find really comfy in the drops.

I guess what it comes down to for me is that the fist thing to spend money and time getting right (along with tires) is the fit and contact points: bar style and position, saddle (model as well as position), and pedals. Nice thing about these is that these are nearly always transferable to your next bike.

chaadster

A big “+1” on the tire suggestion! Great tires can be game-changers!

Koyote

You say that you've had the bike for a month...But not how many miles you've ridden. So we don't really know how much experience you have on the bike. My suggestion would be to ride more, and only replace something if it wears out, fails, or is obviously deficient; e.g., seems like you have identified the crankset as just such a component.

If you can ride as far as you care to go without saddle pain, then don't switch it out; if you are having problems, go forward carefully, as saddles are hard to choose - no one can tell you what will work for you.

As for tires, yeah, you are probably wise to put some miles on the stock rubber unless, again, there is an issue.

If you are really itching to spend money, make sure you have some good clothes: shorts or bibshorts, jerseys, socks, a good comfortable helmet, etc. Those things make a real difference.

GrainBrain

I'd practice smoothing out my pedal strokes and leave the crankset alone.

How do you like the overall gearing? Do you ever use the lowest gear of 34t-34t? Or highest of 50t-11t? If not I'd swap in a different cassette, like a 12-25t.

I agree with EVERYONE 😂 on the saddle and especially the tires! A nice set of tires will be the biggest improvement vs cost.

skidder

As others have mentioned, tires make a big difference for the $$$ invested, saddle can be changed if you find it uncomfortable after a longer ride.

Square-taper BB - There's probably not much you can do about it. I've got them on most of my bicycles, even a touring bike that's seen lots of miles. Square Taper BBs have been around for decades, they are quite reliable, so no real need to do anything about it unless you want to change chainrings on the crank. I'd say the lack of 'stiffness' is more likely from the frame itself, not the BB (others might be more knowledgeable on this).

djdelarosa25

Thank you everyone for your kind replies!

The only tires I have at the moment are the stock Giant S-R3 tires in 28 mm and a pair of Continental Ultra Sport IIIs in 25 mm that I bought for my dad's bike shortly before I bought my own. I switch between them regularly when I have nothing to do lol. I love 28 mm and would stick to them but the Continentals are noticeable lighter (folding) compared to the wire-bead Giants. They also feel zippier to me.

The roads I ride on are sh*t. It's a mix of asphalt, poor pavement, and sometimes, borderline cobblestone/gravel.

I did my research and the best budget tires are apparently the Contis I already have. The better tires are really expensive and I don't think I'm ready to spend that much yet ($60 for a single GP5000). Spending another pair of Ultra Sport IIIs in 28 mm I could do but like I said, I still have two perfectly serviceable pairs and it would feel wasteful to buy a new one. I tried selling them but everyone just wants to lowball me.

I'm also in the fence in buying a new saddle as the local bike shops where I'm from don't have demo units (lol) so I'm stuck with answering those online saddle selectors from PRO, Selle Italia, etc. and just guessing my proper saddle shape from there.

jack pot 

get to know a bike mech ... learn to buy good used stuff ... your mistakes will be smaller and your rewards bigger

djdelarosa25

So if I don't do any racing and just do rides on the kind of roads that we have here, should I just focus on tough tires like the Gatorskin, RiBMo, etc. and pass on the performance-oriented ones like the GPs?

veganbikes

If the stock saddle is fine stick with it, if it is not change it but I would get yourself measured first at the very least if not get an actual fit. Just buying a saddle that is "comfier" will usually end up with a saddle that is less comfortable and just a squishy gel thing that actually creates pressure points and could be way to wide for your sit bones.

Claris is really never worth it. It is one minor step up from Tourney the lowest level of Shimano groupsets. If you need a bottom of the barrel crankset because yours is broken then sure go with Claris but otherwise if it ain't broke don't fix it. If you needed to change gear ratios a new crank would make sense but on that bike I would leave it alone and save your money towards a bike that works better for you.

Cheap brake calipers are all relatively the same. As I tell people the best upgrades are pads/shoes and cables/housing. For pads look for Stop in the name (SwissStop or KoolStop) and for shoes look for something that is nice and stiff and not part of the pad but a separate unit (you may already have that). In terms of cables look for slick stainless cables, ideally polished and without any coatings that can come off and gunk up your brakes. For housing especially on brakes you want something compressionless like Jagwire Pro or Elite Link (which you can get as a kit with everything you will need).

Like I said earlier I would generally leave most things alone and save the money towards a bike that works for you better. If you are having issues with this one it is a good sign you maybe put budget before practicality which happens quite often and can lead down this path of wanting to make minor upgrades which in some cases get you more vertical (like the pads, shoes, cables and housing) but in other cases really just go in a horizontal direction and aren't upgrades so much as more good money to save spent towards a different but relatively equal part.

Tires however aren't a terrible idea because everyone might need different tires. Certainly for good ride quality a set of "open tubular" tires will help out a lot as the softer sidewall will flex more and give you a little more comfort. If you are riding really terrible roads with lots of things that cause flats or commuting than a set of more puncture resistant tires will help but will give a harsher ride. Plus generally a tire can move to a different bike if it still have life in it. Also a wider tire (as wide as you can fit without causing issues) will allow you to run lower pressures and get more comfort as well as lessened chance of puncture as the pressure goes down. Granted newer bikes are starting to put wider tires on from the get go as the science and knowledge has changed.

jay4usc

if your not getting any pain with your saddle, leave it alone. If you feel discomfort make minor adjustments and ride it at least 100 miles before making another adjustment.

Since your riding on crappy roads, can your frame clear 32s? If so, go up to 32s and you will enjoy the upgrade.

how many miles do you ride?

Camilo

Look online for tire prices - you'll find them considerably cheaper than what you quoted.

Saddle - there are online retailers that will do saddle testing with you. Send you several to try, etc. Saddles are absolutely the most basic thing. Never assume you're stuck with the saddle that came with the bike. On the other hand if it works for the amount of riding you do, forget about it.

IMHO: the bike is probably not worth upgrading except for basic functioning or comfort, and worn items. Handlebars, brakes, crank, etc.: just save your money and just ride the heck out of it, learn about what works and doesn't work for you, what you want out of a bike, get your fit dialed in, and buy your next bike based on all of that. A new crank is not going to work better in a real, meaningful way, imho. I do agree that Shimano 105 and above calipers might work better, especially for someone who lacks hand strength. But it won't be night and day, and functionally probably nothing for most adults. Better pads (Shimano Ultegra for example) will make a cheap but significant difference.

Ironfish653

Flat resistance is a bit of a toss-up. Some people want maximum flat prevention at any cost. I rarely get flats, so it's much less of a concern for my tire choice.
There is a definite difference in the feel of a tough tire vs a fast tire. Any tire that's designed for durability (cheap tires and 'tough' tires) will often be heavier and stiffer, 'slower' feeling than a 'performance' tire.
Frankly the UltraSport is a really good budget choice. It rides and handles far better than any other similar priced tire. Definitely an improvement over your OE tires; I'd get them in 28mm, or has been suggested, 32mm if they'll fit. The extra air volume is nice to have on 'mixed' surfaces.

I wouldn't worry too much about immediate upgrades to the 'hard parts' of the bike. Not until you've gotten some solid miles under it, so you can identify any areas that might need improvement.
There's always things like good brake pads, which are inexpensive and noticeable. Also the 'touch points' like the saddle, bar/grips and pedals. There are myriad threads about saddles here, and everyone had a (different) favorite. New bar tape is always nice, and there are a wide range of colors, patterns and textures, that can make a new bike 'yours'
Same goes for pedals, there's a bunch of options, depending on how you use the bike, and they're almost all better than what came on it stock.

bwilli88 

Contact points.
Where do you touch the bike, where does the bike touch the road?
Saddle, bars and tape, pedals, do these 3 of your contact with the bike fit you, if not change for something that does.
How your bike meets the road is the next, do you want soft and supple while being lightweight and have flat trouble or give up a little comfort for fewer flats?

Ride upgrades, not buy upgrades.

When it wears out replace it then see what upgrade is necessary.

Bill in VA

Here is my take from my past and recent experiences.

1. Saddle: A saddle can be a real game changer. However you may not get it right the first time. Be patient, and all things considered if the one you have now is not bad, a better one (comfort wise) will make you ride more. Be careful not to mistake padded for comfortable. I find that padding is great for the first 5-10 miles and then it hurts as the compression of the padding followed by the non-compressing of the base material make them hurt more. If you are not real weight conscious, leather may be a good choice, but relatively expensive and has a break-in period. However, I suggest a a bit more time unless the current saddle is really uncomfortable..

2. Crank: I echo the second poster. Depending on the bike level and frame, (and your weight and power) it could be a frame issue. Square taper cranks do not inherently have more flex. If you are hearing chain rub on climbing and out of the saddle, you may need a front derailleur adjustment.

3. Brakes: I would try pad changes first if there is a perceived stopping issue. Keep in mind brake systems are not always compatible with other levers. Since the levers are Claris, I would shoot for a higher level of Shimano calipers like Tiagra or 105 as the Claris calipers have a plastic QR cam which failed on my wife's bike. Keep in mind, that could be why your bike uses the Tektro calipers, and possibly even for the reach.

To me the biggest (and among the easiest).upgrade that you feel in the seat of your pants (maybe more than a saddle - remember some saddle take time to adjust to or break in) are lightweight supple tires. That you will feel immediately. Benefits are less harshness and often much better stick in corners and in the damp or wet. I ditched the heavy, dead Vittoria Randonneur 28mm wire bead touring tires (502g) after 2 days for a set of 28mm Continental GP-4000SII folding bead (250g) which was a MASSIVE difference in feel due to being half the weight. Plus they were very surefooted in the damp. I later went to Rene Herse standard casing folding 32mm tires at 290g which were just as fast and even less vibration. They are pricey, but wear well and I have never had a flat with either the Contis or the Rene Herse tires, even on dirt roads and canal towpaths.

To me upgrading tires is like adding more memory or an SSD to a computer. It is the easiest upgrade that you really feel.

sean.hwy

+2 on tires. After that it gets too expensive to feel a huge noticeable difference for what you paid. I would enjoy your current bike with nice new tires and save up for bike you like with the group set you want.

bruce19

If you just started riding I'd suggest that you put some time in the saddle before you consider a new saddle. At the start of every season my saddle always feels a bit uncomfortable. After I have a month of riding in my butt it feels just fine again. As it has for the past 5 years I've had this particular saddle.

TiHabanero

From my experience in the bike biz at the retail level for close to 40 years, you have the dreaded rider syndrome and money is burning a hole in your pocket. Similar things happen to golfers and runners. They get into the hobby, really love it, and then try to find ways to "improve" the experience. They spend lots of mula and a year or two later are done with it, and move on to watching movies or something. The best advice I can provide (you are asking for opinions and advice after all) is to slow down, ride the bike a whole lot more, and take time to enjoy the new bike. It will prove to be magical.
Short true story follows:
A young man came into the shop 20 years ago with a used LeMond and wanted me to assess his purchase. I told him it is one of the best production frames available because the design is excellent and meets my standards of preference. We talked for an hour about him, the bike and what to buy next. It was clear he was type A, and was ready to go all in, but I flat out told him to put his wallet away and go ride for 1000 miles and come back to talk. I sold him a frame pump, patch kit and saddle bag.
He came back 1000 miles later and was profoundly happy I advised him to get out and ride before spending more money. He had one flat during that time so he understood the value of what I sold him. Just last year he put in his notice to quit the shop and move on to a different life. He has many bikes now and credits me with introducing him to the hobby, but really he introduced himself, I just showed him a way to enjoy it more than most.
Now, get out there for 1000 miles, then come back to revisit the upgrade thing.

Kapusta

To the OP: as stated, best bang for buck is tires. You have looked into that and find it more than you want to spend.

First, it is good that you are sticking to what you want to spend.

Second, if your financial situation (or budgetary discipline) deems cost of high performance tires too high for the benefit, then I would suggest that you just leave the bike alone. Nothing else you are considering makes any more financial sense at this point than tires, IMO.

y2zipper

I rode a contend as my entry level bike for about 2 years before I upgraded to another bike.

This isn't the type of bike you want to upgrade components on. Take that money, save up for while and get a better bike when you're ready and you know more about what you want.

I would say that you should definitely buy better tires because the Giant stock ones are paper thin and suck and you should get a professional fit. Those are game changers.

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Te only

Drew Eckhardt 

No. The performance oriented tires have more supple carcasses that provide a smoother ride when run at appropriate inflation pressure.

Kapusta

If by ***** you mean stuff like broken glass, and sharp things littering the road, then yes, you want tough, puncture/slice resistant tires.

But if the roads are simply rough and in bad shape, a larger tire with a quality, supple casing run a lower pressure will give you a much nicer ride. In other words, the worse the road, the bigger difference a quality, supple tire makes.

Bill in VA

I remove my glass, debris, etc. while I ride. It is old school and works. Wipers a/k/a "flint catchers" from Rene Herse.