3Rensho Road frame build up
#1
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3Rensho Road frame build up
Hi,
I have this 58cm 3Rensho road frame that I want to start using. I have no experience with road bikes. I come from a fixed gear setup and need some help here.
What year might this frame be?
I would like to build this bike using vintage or vintage looking new parts. I have no idea what I need. I am looking for nothing fancy, just a good working setup. 7 or 8 speed is all I need I think. I don't mind spending a little bit of money on good parts that last.
Thank you in advance!
-Eric
I have this 58cm 3Rensho road frame that I want to start using. I have no experience with road bikes. I come from a fixed gear setup and need some help here.
What year might this frame be?
I would like to build this bike using vintage or vintage looking new parts. I have no idea what I need. I am looking for nothing fancy, just a good working setup. 7 or 8 speed is all I need I think. I don't mind spending a little bit of money on good parts that last.
Thank you in advance!
-Eric
Last edited by vladuz976; 07-06-20 at 03:23 PM.
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vladuz976 , very nice frame!
If it were mine, I'd start looking for 1980's era Shimano Dura Ace components.
https://cycling-passion.com/dura-ace-history/
If it were mine, I'd start looking for 1980's era Shimano Dura Ace components.
https://cycling-passion.com/dura-ace-history/
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This is my build.
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...-aero-sra.html
Contact Andrew Muzi at Yellow Jersey with your serial number and he will tell you from when it is. This helps you to decide on parts.
Looking forward to see your build.
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...-aero-sra.html
Contact Andrew Muzi at Yellow Jersey with your serial number and he will tell you from when it is. This helps you to decide on parts.
Looking forward to see your build.
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If ever a frame was calling for a Suntour Superbe Pro build....
The cheapest period-appropriate way to get it going would honestly be to find an appropriate used bike with a good condition Suntour Cyclone/Shimano 600 group and part it over. Those are good parts and also can frequently be found cheaper on complete bikes than sourcing individual vintage parts yourself.
The cheapest period-appropriate way to get it going would honestly be to find an appropriate used bike with a good condition Suntour Cyclone/Shimano 600 group and part it over. Those are good parts and also can frequently be found cheaper on complete bikes than sourcing individual vintage parts yourself.
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Dura Ace would certainly look good on this. Superbe Pro another good choice. I did both. Pics below. A more economical choice might be Shimano 600 Tri-Color or Suntour Cyclone.
P2212388 by L Travers, on Flickr
3Rensho DA 02 by L Travers, on Flickr
If you have the budget, then C-Record is a nice choice.
P5130846 by L Travers, on Flickr
P2212388 by L Travers, on Flickr
3Rensho DA 02 by L Travers, on Flickr
If you have the budget, then C-Record is a nice choice.
P5130846 by L Travers, on Flickr
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That’s a great blank canvas to start with. I first determine if I want downtube shifters or STI (integrated with brake levers). For me this is a matter of whether I’ll use the bike more for solo riding or if I plan to use on lively club rides (STI).
You have two great suggestions in the posts above. Dura Ace 7400 8spd STI would be an awesome setup. 7spd downtube would be good dressed in Dura Ace or Suntour Superbe.
Enjoy the hunt and report out on the finished product.
You have two great suggestions in the posts above. Dura Ace 7400 8spd STI would be an awesome setup. 7spd downtube would be good dressed in Dura Ace or Suntour Superbe.
Enjoy the hunt and report out on the finished product.
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i'll take a guess your frame is roughly mid 1980s. i have a similar era 3resnho frame in blue. came with full campy super record. switched it to suntour superbe group and just recently switched again to dura ace 7400
the dura ace 7400 happens to be my favorite functionally so far
i agree with sheddle's advice : prob your easiest way forward - keep an eye out for a reasonable high end japanese road 1980s bike and migrate the parts over
i've done the same any number of times and it ends up cheaper and better integrated in the long run vs buying individual parts
not sure what the used bike market is like in shinjuku but look for upper end models of bridgestone / miyata / univega / centurion / nishiki / panasonic / fuji etc
good luck ! those 3renshos are really fantastic both in craftsmanship and esp ride quality
the dura ace 7400 happens to be my favorite functionally so far
i agree with sheddle's advice : prob your easiest way forward - keep an eye out for a reasonable high end japanese road 1980s bike and migrate the parts over
i've done the same any number of times and it ends up cheaper and better integrated in the long run vs buying individual parts
not sure what the used bike market is like in shinjuku but look for upper end models of bridgestone / miyata / univega / centurion / nishiki / panasonic / fuji etc
good luck ! those 3renshos are really fantastic both in craftsmanship and esp ride quality
Last edited by brooklyn_bike; 07-05-20 at 10:48 AM.
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My first impulse would be to find a Craigslist or garage sale bike with all the right parts being given away for next to nothing. (A little more rare nowadays than a few years ago; still sometimes you get lucky).
Second impulse would be find the best set of wheels I can, and build up from there, depending on what cog cluster the rear can accommodate.
I'm another fan of the Shimano 600 TriColor group; you'll find many of us here. It's plentiful on the secondary market, is the most handsome group you can get with brifters (or downtube shifters) and is usually reasonably cheap. IME, it seems to work as well as anything out there.
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#11
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I can't right now. The frame is still with my sister in Seattle. I'm having it shipped to Tokyo as the recent shipping restrictions have just been eased. I'll post more details when they become available.
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the reason I ask about seeing a clear shot of the seatcluster is from what I can make out it the OP's photos the stay caps look to be unusual for a San Rensho: they look to be smooth and "semi-wrap" high and froward on the seat lug, whereas MOST of the early Cyclone Export road frames I'm aware of used the caps with the cast-in name ala several Italian makes (see this pic of my own), until later models came along with "fastback" style attachments like CV-6 examples. Although at a glance the forkcrown looks like it could be genuine with the "forward of centerline" blades, but that's hard to confirm in these pix, too.
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Restomod with silver campagnolo all the way. Probably have to go with 10 speed centaur or athena if you want silver, but that's how I'd build it out. But then that's how I'd build out any nice frame from the mid-80's or newer.
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the reason I ask about seeing a clear shot of the seatcluster is from what I can make out it the OP's photos the stay caps look to be unusual for a San Rensho: they look to be smooth and "semi-wrap" high and froward on the seat lug, whereas MOST of the early Cyclone Export road frames I'm aware of used the caps with the cast-in name ala several Italian makes (see this pic of my own), until later models came along with "fastback" style attachments like CV-6 examples. Although at a glance the forkcrown looks like it could be genuine with the "forward of centerline" blades, but that's hard to confirm in these pix, too.
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#18
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Based on the over the BB cable routing, I'd presume this bike is from the early 80s. Certainly not later. It predates Shimano 7400.
Most likely it would have been 6 speed originally. Verify this by measuring the rear triangle. Should be ~126mm between dropouts. You'll be able to use 7sp if you want. To use anything else (ie 8-11sp) you'll most likely need to respace the frame to 130.
I vote for 'frankenstein' mix of Japanese parts, since it was typical of this period. Sugino MIghty Crankset, preferably a drillium model. Gran Compe Aero brakes. Superbe derailleurs. Maybe some early style shallow aero rims.
I'm not personally a big fan of Dura Ace prior to 7400. Some of the aero stuff was interesting.
Most likely it would have been 6 speed originally. Verify this by measuring the rear triangle. Should be ~126mm between dropouts. You'll be able to use 7sp if you want. To use anything else (ie 8-11sp) you'll most likely need to respace the frame to 130.
I vote for 'frankenstein' mix of Japanese parts, since it was typical of this period. Sugino MIghty Crankset, preferably a drillium model. Gran Compe Aero brakes. Superbe derailleurs. Maybe some early style shallow aero rims.
I'm not personally a big fan of Dura Ace prior to 7400. Some of the aero stuff was interesting.
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On a rare special frame like this I would not try to cold set it to 130mm. Leave it at 126mm. If you want to run 8 speed just use the 9 speed cassette and leave out one cog.
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I’ve actually been sitting on this for a few years now. I finished my fixed gear build and I want to start building this one now. If I remember correctly it came from the Chicago area. I just had it shipped to Seattle for storage. Long term projects...
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Guys, thanks so much for all the info so far. I’m having this shipped to me in Tokyo soon and will post better close ups. One more newbie question. What is Dura Ace SIS? Is that different from SIT?
Also, should I have this repainted? I’m speaking with GiraGira here in Tokyo. Nagasawa’s paint shop can repaint it. The decals are an issue as they won’t be original.
Also, should I have this repainted? I’m speaking with GiraGira here in Tokyo. Nagasawa’s paint shop can repaint it. The decals are an issue as they won’t be original.
#24
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Hello up there in Shinjuku! (I'm a few kilometres south of you.)
You haven't mentioned, and nobody has asked, about your purpose. You want "a good working setup" -- for what? As you'll probably know, there are some pretty ferocious climbs not far beyond Takao, Musashi Itsukaichi, or Ōme station. (Indeed, it's hard to plan rides that neither have steepish climbs nor are just flat and boring.) I know some people with strong thighs but none of them would go there on a bike that had 52/42 chainwheels, 14-25 sprockets. Imaginably, you're even stronger (or more masochistic, or keener to do yourself an injury), but I doubt it. So I suggest that you at least consider lower gearing. Anyway, once you've decided what gearing you want, then consider the brand, etc.
If you're planning to do your component shopping in Japan, forget about vintage Campagnolo goodies. The pricing is ridiculous. You're unlikely to encounter Gipiemme or Zeus. Sanko would be anachronistic and anyway it's rare and expensive. Stick to Suntour or Shimano. Luckily quite a number of models came with long cage (or "GT") versions: see Disraeli Gears.
You haven't mentioned, and nobody has asked, about your purpose. You want "a good working setup" -- for what? As you'll probably know, there are some pretty ferocious climbs not far beyond Takao, Musashi Itsukaichi, or Ōme station. (Indeed, it's hard to plan rides that neither have steepish climbs nor are just flat and boring.) I know some people with strong thighs but none of them would go there on a bike that had 52/42 chainwheels, 14-25 sprockets. Imaginably, you're even stronger (or more masochistic, or keener to do yourself an injury), but I doubt it. So I suggest that you at least consider lower gearing. Anyway, once you've decided what gearing you want, then consider the brand, etc.
If you're planning to do your component shopping in Japan, forget about vintage Campagnolo goodies. The pricing is ridiculous. You're unlikely to encounter Gipiemme or Zeus. Sanko would be anachronistic and anyway it's rare and expensive. Stick to Suntour or Shimano. Luckily quite a number of models came with long cage (or "GT") versions: see Disraeli Gears.
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Hello up there in Shinjuku! (I'm a few kilometres south of you.)
You haven't mentioned, and nobody has asked, about your purpose. You want "a good working setup" -- for what? As you'll probably know, there are some pretty ferocious climbs not far beyond Takao, Musashi Itsukaichi, or Ōme station. (Indeed, it's hard to plan rides that neither have steepish climbs nor are just flat and boring.) I know some people with strong thighs but none of them would go there on a bike that had 52/42 chainwheels, 14-25 sprockets. Imaginably, you're even stronger (or more masochistic, or keener to do yourself an injury), but I doubt it. So I suggest that you at least consider lower gearing. Anyway, once you've decided what gearing you want, then consider the brand, etc.
If you're planning to do your component shopping in Japan, forget about vintage Campagnolo goodies. The pricing is ridiculous. You're unlikely to encounter Gipiemme or Zeus. Sanko would be anachronistic and anyway it's rare and expensive. Stick to Suntour or Shimano. Luckily quite a number of models came with long cage (or "GT") versions: see Disraeli Gears.
You haven't mentioned, and nobody has asked, about your purpose. You want "a good working setup" -- for what? As you'll probably know, there are some pretty ferocious climbs not far beyond Takao, Musashi Itsukaichi, or Ōme station. (Indeed, it's hard to plan rides that neither have steepish climbs nor are just flat and boring.) I know some people with strong thighs but none of them would go there on a bike that had 52/42 chainwheels, 14-25 sprockets. Imaginably, you're even stronger (or more masochistic, or keener to do yourself an injury), but I doubt it. So I suggest that you at least consider lower gearing. Anyway, once you've decided what gearing you want, then consider the brand, etc.
If you're planning to do your component shopping in Japan, forget about vintage Campagnolo goodies. The pricing is ridiculous. You're unlikely to encounter Gipiemme or Zeus. Sanko would be anachronistic and anyway it's rare and expensive. Stick to Suntour or Shimano. Luckily quite a number of models came with long cage (or "GT") versions: see Disraeli Gears.
the plan is to keep the Nagasawa for the city and build the 3rensho for weekend trips.
I’m 6’1” 200lb. I have 167.5cm Sugino cranks on my Nagasawa but that’s also a fairly high sitting frame for indoor tracks. I’m a little lost to be honest at the moment. I kind of want to get the bike ready just to ride it. At the same time I don’t wanna put crappy components on it that I’ll end up replacing anyhow.
Last edited by vladuz976; 07-07-20 at 12:54 AM.