geezerwheels

I'm looking for a frame to build out. Here's where I'm coming from, and what I want to accomplish.

First--who am I? 67 years old, with some damage to the cervical vertibrae--can no longer ride on road bars. 6'-1.5", 180 lbs. Fairly fit (for a geezer), enjoy 25-35 mile rides on the paved bike paths...presently riding a vintage steel frame with a brooks saddle, and albatross bars with thumb shifters. Not a fast way to go, but very comfortable.

My goal is a lighter frame and better gearing--but with flat or albatross bars and good trigger shifters, 2x10 gearing (50/34 x 13/32 or 34 would be just fine).

So I stumbled over two prospects, both alloy frames with carbon forks. One is intriguing--a K2 Red Zone tri:

The reason it caught my attention is because it has a really short top tube, at least an inch shorter than the current bike. It gives me more options to locate the bars. For example, I could raise the seat, and slide it forward, and turn the albatross bars upside down, more or less preserving my current physical geometry, while getting a little more aero. If it turns out to be less comfortable, then just go with a longer stem.

Another option is this (for an extra $50, counting delivery)--a Cannondale Synapse:
In this case, I like the idea of the molded seat stays, to act as shock absorbers or vibration dampeners. However, it is set up for disc brakes, which I really don't care all that much about, and would drive up the cost even higher.

So there you have it. Any advice is welcome (that's why we're here, no?)

Leisesturm

Both of those frames are intended for aggressive, weight forward biased, drop or tri bars, and will look, and feel, strange done up like a comfort or city bike with Albatross bars and brooks saddle. I wouldn't do it. You asked.

gilpi

Good evening. As Im reading your post, I can almost visualize you riding a hybrid and then I see the frames and they represent exactly what you don't want to be riding. Have you thought of checking out a couple of bike shops?

geezerwheels

comparing the geometry of the two frames mentioned above with some modern hybrids...given the same effective top tube length, hybrids tend to have slightly longer wheelbases and or greater trail. I don't mind the quicker steering. For a while I was riding an 80's De Rosa with Albatross bars, and it was a blast.

Obviously, what the bike looks like is not that important to me

AnthonyG

Not all top tube lengths are created equal. A bike frame with a 540mm top tube length with a 74 Degree seat tube angle is a different frame from one with a 540mm top tube length at a 72.5 degree seat tube angle.

The one you want for more relaxed riding is the 540mm top tube at 72.5 degree seat tube angle.
Top tube specifications LIE. Top tube length means NOTHING on its own. It only means ANYTHING when combined with seat tube angle.

A triathlon frame is the LAST frame you want because of its steep seat tube angle and I'm not a fan of the Synapse's either.

What you should look for first on a specification sheet is a relaxed seat tube angle ((73 degrees at the most or better still 72 degrees) we are talking about relaxed riding here) and a tall head tube. That triathlon frame will have a steep seat tube angle (probably 75 degrees and a short head tube.

Not what you want.

Anthony

geezerwheels

valuable perspective, however, slow steering and stable is not the greatest priority. This is an investigation of achieving a fast and sporty bike, with a more upright posture...

Leisesturm

"Ffast and sporty" is mutually exclusive to "more upright posture". The two cannot co-exist in the same bike. Of course there are degrees of "sporty" and maybe you wish to lean to the sporting end of "upright" and it's your money so... who am I. You did ask though.

AnthonyG

Your confusing Head Tube Angle (HTA) with Seat Tube Angle(STA).

If you want direct steering then you want a bigger number for the HTA but the STA is completely different. You want a tall head tube LENGTH but a steep HTA.

Seriously ignore top tube lengths as a method of comparison until you are able to assess top tube lengths side by side with seat tube angles.

Neither of the two bikes you listed quoted seat tube angle so there is no way of knowing ANYTHING about how either bike would fit based on quoted specifications.

I suspect that the best frame for you is an older but top quality steel frame.

Anthony

Carbonfiberboy 

Specialized Roubaix gets lots of good reviews in the Endurance category, which mostly means a more relaxed geometry, i.e. taller head tube plus more attention to vibration damping. Seat tube and head tube angles vary with size. https://www.specialized.com/us/en/bi...aix-sl4/115488

berner

I ride a Specialized Secteur which is an aluminum frame with the geometry of the Rubaix and a carbon fork. I've been very happy with the bike for 21,000 miles and my frame is 78 years old. This model is no longer available and I've no idea what replaced it. Of special interest to me, who babies my back, the bike will take up to 28mm tires. Actually, the rear tire is 29.5mm. These soften the ride quite a bit. The bike originally weighed 21.5 pounds but I eventually installed custom wheels and a Tiagra triple in the front which reduced weight noticeably but not significantly. Better shifters and more expensive wheels would reduce weight another, say, a pound and a half which is not of interest to me. Mostly, the bike is versatile and comfortable.

There are numerous other bikes in this endurance category that are speedy but not race bikes, relatively light but not the lightest and are versatile, taking a rear rack to haul stuff around town or for light touring and will fit wider than usual tires for rougher roads or for a softer ride. Which one you end up with will depend mostly on which brands your local bike shops carry. I would try out as many different models as possible.

geezerwheels

All the good advice I got on this deserves some follow up...went with the Synapse...and very happy. Ultegra drive train and TRP HY/RD brakes, flat bar with Ergon grips, 25mm Gatorskins.

When I first put it all together, there was a very quirky tendency to dive into turns at low speed, particularly when up out of the saddle. One solution of course is to go faster, but not always feasible winding through urban gridlock at rush hour.

I thought maybe a longer stem would help. That, and swapping out the Luganos that came with the wheelsets (they are very grabby!) No--it actually made it worse. So dug a shorty out of "stock," and it handles very nice--it's a joy to flick through tight jogs, and fairly predictable leaning into a sweeping curve.

The seat stays really soak up the insults of the road. However, the forks and the carbon fiber bar, which I shortened, transmit every pebble with a vengeance. after 60 km my butt is still happy, but my hands are really pi$$ed. They think I'm riding two different bikes. There are some moustache bars in their future...

fietsbob

Trekking bar's Figure 8 bend . and double wrapping them, or maybe adding Gel under tape pads may help ..

gloves with palm pads certainly will ..

[bars higher/ closer (different stem tried?), or you just take the bike stock, stem length / rise, as is?]