Best way to eliminate fork shudder with canti brakes?
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Best way to eliminate fork shudder with canti brakes?
I've read about a few ways to help this issue, and I'm not sure which would be most effective. It looks like the simplest would be to get a fork-mounted cable stop/hanger. I'm also curious about switching to mini-Vs, but that's a good bit more expensive. I also saw someone mention that having different pads on each side of the wheel could help...anyone ever hear of this before?
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I think you answered your own question.
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Brian
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Well, I'd probably also get a regular spacer to replace the headset hanger, so that'd add a little bit, too. Are these options equivalent in their effectiveness? Like, is there any benefit of going to mini-Vs, over cantis with a fork-mounted hanger?
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best way is the one that works , you know the options now..
Add toeing in the brake shoes .. for some, plain Post types , like the Mafacs of old,
it may need something like Adjust in Place brake pad sets
TRP has one..
Kool Stop offers a triple compound pad for cyclocross applications , now.
Add toeing in the brake shoes .. for some, plain Post types , like the Mafacs of old,
it may need something like Adjust in Place brake pad sets
TRP has one..
Kool Stop offers a triple compound pad for cyclocross applications , now.
Last edited by fietsbob; 07-16-13 at 12:13 PM.
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I picked up one of the Specialized Tricross fork brake cable hangers and installed it today. Had to replace the link cable as well, because the stock one made the triangle too big to work with the fork-mounted hanger, but even before I did that, I noticed an improvement. The braking feels smoother overall, but I'll have to try it in damp conditions to see how it really is.
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Yeah that's a minor drawback. I prefer standard yoke & cable so you can fine tune length. Or buy a few different sizes link wire on Amazon and throw them in the bike box.
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I have an 2006 ridley supercross with full carbon python fork with terrible shudder . . . so I guess the options are the mini-vs, toe-in, and short brake pads. ??
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just installed the mini-Vs off ebay ($15) on the supercross with the full carbon python fork . . . same issues others reported with the 25mm bolts too long so used the existing 15mm with some spacers . . . and took off the hanger . . . toed in the pads . . . and no shudder this morning commute . . . but the lever pulls to the bars, so need to adjust tighten up a bit.
question: what is the appropriate cable hanger for the mini-Vs? I'm just running the cable straight from the head tube holder that sent the cable straight down the head tube to the Y cable splitter for the old cantis. now the cable runs to the right to the mini-V noodle, looks wrong. ??? there was some discussion in the instruction booklet about right lever/front brake, left lever/rear brake, etc. and the angle of the noodle, but my brakes only came with one noodle.
question: what is the appropriate cable hanger for the mini-Vs? I'm just running the cable straight from the head tube holder that sent the cable straight down the head tube to the Y cable splitter for the old cantis. now the cable runs to the right to the mini-V noodle, looks wrong. ??? there was some discussion in the instruction booklet about right lever/front brake, left lever/rear brake, etc. and the angle of the noodle, but my brakes only came with one noodle.
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on the way to the wheel pit, downhill, left hand holding wheel, riding one handed on the right brake, which reversed, went to the front mini-v, unexpected downhill . . . speed, culvert, CRASH, road rash, bars bent . . . the brake lever squeezed all the way to the bars. anyway, took the bike to the shop and they set me straight on the cable hanger . . . remove it! learned the hard way that the cable guide connects straight to the noodle. duh. worked great on the commute this morning. but my road rash still hurts.
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