Torque Specs for SR BB and Crank arms?
12-24-13, 11:08 PM
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Torque Specs for SR BB and Crank arms?
Does anyone have instructions for torque specs or installation of an old Sakae Ringyo bb and crank arms? What is the torque on the square taper?
In reference to my bike:
Trek 412
In reference to my bike:
Trek 412
12-25-13, 06:16 AM
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I don't think a lot people worried about torqueing stuff back then, I know I seldom saw a torque in the late '80s when I worked in a shop. I think the whole idea of torque specs on everything grew out of liability issues and replacement/warranty cost the last few years as more and more stuff is made from Ti and carbon fiber. I was always taught that if your using the correct wrench for the job once it stops moving the bolt/nut the torque is generally correct. Which is why a 6mm wrench is 8" long and 15mm is 13" long.
If your really want to torque them I think my early '90s Campi cranks call for around 25 ft lbs.
Nice looking project I guess it is coming back together?
If your really want to torque them I think my early '90s Campi cranks call for around 25 ft lbs.
Nice looking project I guess it is coming back together?
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12-25-13, 11:05 AM
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Also, thats what I was planning on doing, I think my campy cranks on my trek 5500 were 32ft/lbs. I was going to do something similar. I could look up the torque specs for that particular size bolt and use engineering judgement too.
12-25-13, 02:36 PM
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Back when I was working in a Schwinn shop, we always had a card stuck to the wall of recommended torque values. Every new bike was checked with a torque wrench.
Park Tools has a reference for the most common torque values: https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...s-and-concepts
Park Tools has a reference for the most common torque values: https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...s-and-concepts
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12-26-13, 08:43 AM
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Thanks Jeff! Looks like right around 300 in/lbs will do fine.
12-29-13, 03:28 PM
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The Barnett's manual says that if the manufacturer's specs are not available, then follow this for both left and right: "Torque nut/bolt to 390in-lbs (32.5ft-lbs, or 65lbs@6" or 50lbs@8")."
I've usually used one of my three torque wrenches, but I've usually stopped bit short of those specs just because it "felt" right. This discretion included my one set of SR cranks. But (ironically?) it was the SR that I had to torqued down later as it had started to drift off the spline on the drive side. No bother since then. So, I'd recommend the 32 or so ft-lbs.
I've usually used one of my three torque wrenches, but I've usually stopped bit short of those specs just because it "felt" right. This discretion included my one set of SR cranks. But (ironically?) it was the SR that I had to torqued down later as it had started to drift off the spline on the drive side. No bother since then. So, I'd recommend the 32 or so ft-lbs.
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12-30-13, 11:45 AM
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Hope this will help...
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...e-Torque-Specs
Remember I extracted this info for good old steel bikes - Not for composite or Weird graph/plastic components...
Or especially " hydride Al2CuHx " ...
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...e-Torque-Specs
Remember I extracted this info for good old steel bikes - Not for composite or Weird graph/plastic components...
Or especially " hydride Al2CuHx " ...
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No matter where you're at... There you are... Δf:=f(1/2)-f(-1/2)
No matter where you're at... There you are... Δf:=f(1/2)-f(-1/2)Last edited by zandoval; 12-30-13 at 11:54 AM.
