thirdgenbird

sounds perfect. short chain on my modern aluminum bike and a little longer on the tommasini

Drillium Dude 

As I get close to the end of the build, more questions keep popping up...

First off, I tried the middle cog/big ring - chain is definitely too short. I'll order one online tomorrow and hope it arrives fast in time for Saturday

Now, for my latest question: aren't the Campy brake housings supposed to be used with ferrules at either end? The good news is that my levers had a set embedded in the cableway, so that's one end taken care of. But what about where they go into the caliper arm?

The instructions in the set show four normal ferrules and one step-down for the derailleurs, but do not show a supplied set for the brakes. That is to say, the set is complete - but will it work? Do I need brake ferrules? If so, how do I source those?

Please don't say Ebay


I was going to cut these to sized and prep the bars (electrical tape for securing the housings, set the final location of the levers) tonight, but I am going to wait and see what kind of feedback I get from this question...

DD

thirdgenbird

campagnolo does not call for the use of ferrules with their brakes or brake cable

the four supplied are for shifting. two at the down tube cable stops, one in the RD, and the fourth or stepdown on the chainstay pending your frames requirements.

thirdgenbird

jagwire kits do come with a larger than normal step down ferrule that can be used in campy brakes but they are not needed per campagnolos instruction. ive run many miles without and never had an issue. consider this an irrelavent post for your current install and just knowledge for future use

Drillium Dude 

^ Okay, cool - I like ferrules for the clean look - and I was checking out the Interwebs tonight and saw a number of pics of early Ergos connected to Monoplaner brake calipers and there were ferrules at the caliper arm, so....

I have the KMC X9SL on the way - $41.95 with free shipping, promised to deliver by Thursday, 2 February. Pricepoint couldn't beat that with a stick

BTW, that's a sexy looking chain...

DD

thirdgenbird

once upon a time i did have a few ferrules that fit inside campy brakes but i cant recall ever getting them with a campy cable kit.

i know when i built my tommasini i hunted my collection (and my dads collection) of ferrules but the only ones i could find that would fit were black aluminum ones that said jagwire. like me, you wont want them for this sort of build.

if it makes you feel better obree doesnt have any:

thirdgenbird

he is all about drilling too:




you will fit right in

Michael Angelo 

Ferrules...

Drillium Dude 

^ Yup - the Campy kit comes with derailleur cable ferrules. My question is in regard to the brake cable ferrules.

To continue my quest to keep every bit of this build clean and precise, I'm going to look around for some brake ferrules anyway

BTW, I like the clear tubing idea to keep the cable from rubbing the paint on your headtube: I think I'll borrow that idea!

DD

cudak888 

Beware - some types of clear tubing have a tendency to stick to and lift paint.

-Kurt

Drillium Dude 

^ Good point

With that in mind, what's conventional wisdom say about the brake cable routing? In researching Interwebs photos, I note about a 50/50 split on left lever-front brake/right lever-rear brake and vice versa.

Personally, it appears cleaner going with the original standard (and what I have on all my other bikes, which I suppose would end up being my default choice - who wants to grab a handful of front brake when one thought they were going for the rear?): left lever front/right lever rear.

I'm also seeing different routing around the head tube for the rear brake - about 50/50 split on both sides of the head tube.

Suggestions?

DD

mazdaspeed

Front brake = left lever, route the rear brake cable on the left side IMO

gomango

I have them on several bikes.

Go for it.

gomango

Look at Aaron's thread when you have a moment.

https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...hlight=primato

Or dig one up from OFG or BBM. Check out their Primatos.

They look pretty darn good to me.

Michael Angelo 

I can send you a few feet of the stuff I use. I have it on three bikes and does not stick to paint. PM me if you want some. I also tried to find ferrules that would fit at the Caliper end of the brake cable,.. no dice. The cable just fits in the adjuster.

MIke

yellowjeep

I run my brakes right front. I've never owned a motorcycle and I'm not from England or any of the other countries that drive on the wrong side so who knows where I picked it up. Suits me fine.

MPC Biker

always do this ^

the lever brake arrangement is standard on all new bikes. my best thoughts are that this has to do with hand dominance. In emergency situations most people would garb hard with their right hand (considering 90% of the population is right handed) and if front brakes were cables to the right lever we would end up with a lot of "tuckus over tea kettle" incidents.

although the physics of this are harder to experience on a road bike (lower riding position, better weight distribution) this would become a problem (and does) with upright hybrids and kids bikes with single hand brakes...... kids like to slam the breaks hard their first time using them, (my sister learned the very hard way that this is not such a good idea.)

as for cable routing, i think it would be incredibly awkward to have a cable come from the right side lever and go around the right side of the headtube, it's just easier for it to cross over the headtube on the left side (this would also reduce friction in the cable, imporving brake performance)

Drillium Dude 

Gomango: That's the ticket

And I note he is using ferrules, and has the earlier-generation Ergos, so I will scare up a pair. The Chorus brakes on this build have a countersunk adjuster, and normally Campy's ferrules have the sloping ends to fit that countersink perfectly. For a nice, positive interface I think I'll need these.

Perhaps the modern adjusters have flat-bottomed adjusters, thus negating the need for ferrules?

Oh, BTW: I have never liked all that extra length of cable on the RD. Is it a requirement? Or can I cut it to a shorter length? If I cut, will I lose derailleur performance?

DD

MrEss

I, too, like right-brake-front despite not being a brit or owning a motorcycle -- but I agree that you should do the same thing as all your other bikes for consistency's sake.

Drillium Dude 

Thanks for the offer - but I can locate some locally I think

I like your version rather than the little stick-ons that I see a lot of others using. This way, I won't have to play around with removing gunk from the frame when I want to go back to Super Record one fine day

DD

Drillium Dude 

I was thinking the same thing - and the more I looked at pics the other way 'round, the more I thought the normal setup looked just that little bit cleaner.

UPDATE: Chain should arrive by Thursday and I will go by the general rule of thumb to get it close myself, then fine-tune on Saturday at the shop.

DD

Drillium Dude 

What is the story with these pictures? Inquiring minds want to know

That rear derailleur has some major modification going on...

DD

thirdgenbird

campy recomends not cutting this. it is more critical with 10 and 11spd but cutting the rear loop too short will negatively effect shifting on your setup. keep it a smooth consistent radius.

thirdgenbird

Graeme Obree is quite the rider, rebel, innovator, and fabricator.





they all have stories but the last build can be found here:
https://www.cyclingnews.com/news/grae...mazing-bicycle

detailed pictures are here:
https://www.cyclingnews.com/news/phot...mazing-bicycle

gomango

Yep, you are right again.

Smooth is the key word here.

Bends that are too tight have created shifting issues for me.

Especially on modern Athena for some reason.

Just use the provided loop and she works great.