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SRAM Red Etap reliability - cracked battery

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SRAM Red Etap reliability - cracked battery

Old 05-12-19, 07:07 PM
  #26  
sputniky
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Originally Posted by Boerd
When batteries crack / break during normal use there is a problem - there is no wild speculation there. Otherwise my bike or my riding must be at fault - though I find that harder to believe.
Why is it so hard to imagine that it works for many / most but there is still a problem? Poor design doesn't mean a design that never works. It can be just "Good enough for many / most" yet problematic.
You assume that only poor design can account for your unusual battery failure. You also speculate that there could be something about "your riding" that caused the failure. Again, what is so special about your riding that you think it may have caused the failure?

The fact is that your battery may have broken due to issues during manufacturing, which is a completely different failure mode than the "bad design"/"my riding broke my battery" that you are speculating about.
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Old 05-12-19, 07:08 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by aclinjury
it's not his riding, it's the crappy made battery.
Dude speculated that his riding could have caused it, hence my question about what is so special about his riding (hint: nothing).
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Old 05-12-19, 08:52 PM
  #28  
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I just purchased a Specialized Diverge Comp and I am thinking about having the SRAM eTap installed. First of all, does that makes sense, or am I putting Ferrari Wheels on a Lexus? In addition, if it is a good idea to upgrade to eTap, any thoughts on AXS versus Red?
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Old 05-12-19, 10:56 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by sputniky
Dude speculated that his riding could have caused it, hence my question about what is so special about his riding (hint: nothing).
I ride on less than smooth roads - California roads aren't exactly the best. I was speculating that higher speed downhill Diablo (on less than ideal road) may have contributed to the failure. One may speculate it was a defect battery.
Whichever it may be - it doesn't matter.
42$ battery should do better - or if you (Sram) can't assure the quality of a 42$ battery, then have a decent design where batteries don't break like this; account for the fact that cheap plastic can break. With the current ETap it's possible to lose a battery while riding. This is a poor design, no speculation there. I will have to carry a spare battery and make sure it's always charged. Didn't expect this. I don't think Dura Ace Di2 customers carry batteries with them.

Last edited by Boerd; 05-12-19 at 11:16 PM.
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Old 05-13-19, 09:47 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Trsnrtr
Also, mine are on a recumbent so I can't see the lights while riding. Can riders on regular bikes see the lights when shifting?
They're not intended to be seen while riding. I check them at the end of a ride before hanging the bike up for the day. That way I know to recharge them so they are ready for the next ride.

Also you shift the rear way more than the front so they won't run down the same.
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Old 05-13-19, 09:53 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Boerd
I ride on less than smooth roads - California roads aren't exactly the best. I was speculating that higher speed downhill Diablo (on less than ideal road) may have contributed to the failure.
LOL!

Summit, North Gate, and South Gate aren't rough roads. Maybe you should descend Morgan Territory heading North, or better yet, skip NG or SG and descend off the mountain via Mitchell Canyon, BBQ Terrace, Wall Point, Pine Canyon, etc. as they are much more harsh (and those high speed descents haven't had any effect on my eTap batteries...).

So yeah, you got a defective battery or ham fisted it. Its failure had nothing to do with your riding. As expected.

"I will have to carry a spare battery and make sure it's always charged." So much fear. That's sad.
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Old 05-13-19, 10:48 AM
  #32  
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If the battery still works, something like that could be epoxied back together and used again.
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Old 05-13-19, 03:44 PM
  #33  
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Is it possible the battery case cracked after it was accidentally hit by something? I guess it could still speak to a poor design, but I'm just throwing this out there as a possibility Mine has luckily been solid so far.

Geoff
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Old 05-13-19, 10:47 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Jofu
Is it possible the battery case cracked after it was accidentally hit by something? I guess it could still speak to a poor design, but I'm just throwing this out there as a possibility Mine has luckily been solid so far.

Geoff
Maybe I didn't clip it in correctly or I forced it; that is a possibility (I like to believe I clipped in correctly but...).

Last edited by Boerd; 05-13-19 at 10:53 PM.
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Old 05-14-19, 06:18 PM
  #35  
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Update: took the battery to the local Sports Basement and they contacted SRAM. No hassle - the replacement battery is coming next week. SRAM customer service seems fine.
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Old 11-30-19, 08:42 PM
  #36  
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Another battery is broken. 55$ batteries and they are cheap and crappy. I will try to see if SRAM replaces it.
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Old 12-01-19, 07:14 AM
  #37  
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2 bikes. 2 years. No battery problems at all......yet
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Old 12-01-19, 01:40 PM
  #38  
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I guess this is an advantage of the Shimano system: you don’t remove the battery to charge it. Just plug in the charger to a port.
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Old 12-01-19, 02:16 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Koyote
I guess this is an advantage of the Shimano system: you don’t remove the battery to charge it. Just plug in the charger to a port.
Great... so when the single battery dies, you lose everything. With eTap you can easily carry a spare or just move the FD to the RD.
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Old 12-01-19, 04:25 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Koyote
I guess this is an advantage of the Shimano system: you don’t remove the battery to charge it. Just plug in the charger to a port.
Originally Posted by GlennR
Great... so when the single battery dies, you lose everything. With eTap you can easily carry a spare or just move the FD to the RD.
You're apparently not familiar with Di2. I probably use more battery power than most Di2 users, as I live in a very hilly area (lots of shifting) and I have the bluetooth feature (which draws a small amount of additional power.) After 500-600 miles, my battery might be down to 50% charge, so I plug it in and it's back to 100% in about ninety minutes. With that much capacity, there's not much chance of running out of power.

The charge level is easily checked even without bt...But with the bt, I get a battery readout right on my cycle computer. It's kind of hard to miss when the battery level gets low.

I do like the SRAM system, too, as it makes for a cleaner install with no wires. But with Di2, you're really not ever going to have a mid-ride battery problem unless you forget to check it for 1000+ miles.
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Old 12-01-19, 07:07 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Koyote
You're apparently not familiar with Di2. I probably use more battery power than most Di2 users, as I live in a very hilly area (lots of shifting) and I have the bluetooth feature (which draws a small amount of additional power.) After 500-600 miles, my battery might be down to 50% charge, so I plug it in and it's back to 100% in about ninety minutes. With that much capacity, there's not much chance of running out of power.

The charge level is easily checked even without bt...But with the bt, I get a battery readout right on my cycle computer. It's kind of hard to miss when the battery level gets low.

I do like the SRAM system, too, as it makes for a cleaner install with no wires. But with Di2, you're really not ever going to have a mid-ride battery problem unless you forget to check it for 1000+ miles.
Sram has a LED that shows green, red and blinking red. As long as it's not blinking you're still good to go on a 100 mile ride. If you don't check the lights, you have no one to blame.

I got 700-800 miles per charge on the rear. I bet if I swap them i can easily get over 1000 total.
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Old 12-01-19, 07:47 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by GlennR
I was getting about 800 miles per charge and it went down to about half.

I do not carry a spare. The LEDs indicate battery level. Green is good, red is below 25% and flashing red is below15%. Then since they are the same you can always swap them since the front is used a lot less than the rear.
My FD battery died going up a hill.
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Old 12-01-19, 07:49 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by tabl10s
My FD battery died going up a hill.
You change chainrings when climbing? Can't be much of a hill.
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Old 12-01-19, 07:52 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by GlennR
Sram has a LED that shows green, red and blinking red. As long as it's not blinking you're still good to go on a 100 mile ride. If you don't check the lights, you have no one to blame.

I got 700-800 miles per charge on the rear. I bet if I swap them i can easily get over 1000 total.
Yes, I know how the Sram system works. You don’t need to defend your choice. I never claimed that it is likely - or more likely than Shimano - to leave you stranded. I only stated that the Shimano system does not require you to fiddle with the battery in order to charge it.

Each system has its advantages and disadvantages. With Shimano, you only have to charge one battery, and infrequently. With Sram, you don’t need a ported frame and you don’t need a bunch of wires running along it and through it, but you do have to keep track of the charge level in more than one battery. I couldn’t really say which is superior… Only that it is good to have choices in the marketplace.
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Old 12-01-19, 09:27 PM
  #45  
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For a bit I thought maybe I should go mechanical again... but electronic shifting is so addictive. I just have to put up with these batteries breaking down on me
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Old 12-02-19, 12:27 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by GlennR
You change chainrings when climbing? Can't be much of a hill.
Yes and there's a good reason for that.
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Old 12-02-19, 12:34 AM
  #47  
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Dang, truly puzzled! 2 broken batteries now? How did the second one break? Is it breaking when you remove it, or does it break while being attached? From personal experience, I've seen no stressing force applied to the battery, so I'm just not sure how this would ever happen

By the way, I finally was hit with a dead RD battery, of course due to my stupidity in forgetting to charge it So I suppose it was nice to be able to swap the 2 batteries, or else that 5000ft+ climb would have been a wee-bit painful

Geoff
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Old 12-14-19, 03:38 PM
  #48  
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Update: as expected, Sram sent me a replacement. At least they stand by their product.
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Old 12-14-19, 03:39 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Jofu
Dang, truly puzzled! 2 broken batteries now? How did the second one break? Is it breaking when you remove it, or does it break while being attached? From personal experience, I've seen no stressing force applied to the battery, so I'm just not sure how this would ever happen

By the way, I finally was hit with a dead RD battery, of course due to my stupidity in forgetting to charge it So I suppose it was nice to be able to swap the 2 batteries, or else that 5000ft+ climb would have been a wee-bit painful

Geoff
I noticed that the lower wing of the battery didn't come out when I took out the battery to charge it How does this happen? It beats me. I wish I knew.

Last edited by Boerd; 12-14-19 at 03:45 PM.
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Old 04-24-21, 08:00 PM
  #50  
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It's been some time - I rode quite a few miles and no more broken batteries. Just had to set the record straight. If that was it (the 2 broken batteries) - I am fine with Sram. Knock on wood.
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