External ”Hollowtech” bearings or square tapered cartridges?
12-02-19, 03:32 AM
#26
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But my bike is a MTB style commuter (streets here have holes so large and deep that’ll shred skinny wheels/tires apart, so we resort to chubby ones), will it fit? The shell is 68mm wide BSA threaded and I’m looking to install a touring triple chainset (Shimano FC-T4060 48-36-26T).
As for the weight, it’s secondary right now: I still must lose another 34kg to reach my normal weight, so I can exploit that before became a weight weenie.
12-02-19, 03:34 AM
#27
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12-02-19, 03:36 AM
#28
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The matched derailleur question is one I must account for. Will it be OK on a Shimano Altus FD-M371?
12-02-19, 03:37 AM
#29
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12-02-19, 03:44 AM
#30
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Maybe, but Speed B and DrIsotope have better experience with their 105 Hollowtechs. I ride on the rain, though.
12-02-19, 03:46 AM
#31
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My experience with Shimano HTII external bottom brackets has been very good. I have two BB6700 (Ultegra level) bottom brackets mounting FC-5703 (105 level) triple cranks with over 25,000 miles each and still in excellent operating condition. These bikes aren't ridden in rain or snow if I can help it but they have gotten wet and splashed a number of times with no apparent problems.
Sample size = 2 but success = 100%
Sample size = 2 but success = 100%
12-02-19, 03:49 AM
#32
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As the spindle on Hollowtech crankset is hollow, they tend to be much lighter than square tapers. But that’s not my primary concern now, I can lose more weight than that!
12-02-19, 03:51 AM
#33
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We have a saying here about caviar: never see, neither eat, just hear about it. Campagnolo is about the same here... 🤣
12-02-19, 03:57 AM
#34
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To a degree yes. However the shell faces are also about getting the BB (whatever type) securely tightened. A shell with cockeyed faces won't allow the BB RH (usually the RH) side to fully snug up and thus might loosen during use more readily. The other possibility with really off faces is that if the BB cartridge is fully torqued down before the LH locating ring (what most will call a cup even though it's a cylinder) the LH end can drift off center and make installing that LH ring rather hard. This is one reason why I'll not tighten the RH side completely before the LH side is installed. Andy
12-02-19, 06:13 AM
#35
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Realistically, You'll be fine either way.
Old crankset, new 68x122.5 UN 26 saves you from purchasing a new (or used) HT II crankset. Maybe you have to replace a worn chain ring somewhere years? down the road. You need a crank removal tool and BB tool.
HT II means new (used?) crankset (upgrade?) so add some cost. The BB are about the same $$ cost. Need a different tool for BB and crank than the UN26, so if you buy the tool to remove the old one, you still need another tool to install the new one.
Old crankset, new 68x122.5 UN 26 saves you from purchasing a new (or used) HT II crankset. Maybe you have to replace a worn chain ring somewhere years? down the road. You need a crank removal tool and BB tool.
HT II means new (used?) crankset (upgrade?) so add some cost. The BB are about the same $$ cost. Need a different tool for BB and crank than the UN26, so if you buy the tool to remove the old one, you still need another tool to install the new one.
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12-02-19, 06:24 AM
#36
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Realistically, You'll be fine either way.
Old crankset, new 68x122.5 UN 26 saves you from purchasing a new (or used) HT II crankset. Maybe you have to replace a worn chain ring somewhere years? down the road. You need a crank removal tool and BB tool.
HT II means new (used?) crankset (upgrade?) so add some cost. The BB are about the same $$ cost. Need a different tool for BB and crank than the UN26, so if you buy the tool to remove the old one, you still need another tool to install the new one.
Old crankset, new 68x122.5 UN 26 saves you from purchasing a new (or used) HT II crankset. Maybe you have to replace a worn chain ring somewhere years? down the road. You need a crank removal tool and BB tool.
HT II means new (used?) crankset (upgrade?) so add some cost. The BB are about the same $$ cost. Need a different tool for BB and crank than the UN26, so if you buy the tool to remove the old one, you still need another tool to install the new one.
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12-02-19, 08:01 AM
#37
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I'm pretty light at 145 pounds (66kg) so I don't put the demands on any bottom bracket that a much heavier rider would. However, one of the arguments in favor of HTII is that its stiffer than square taper so it should tolerate heavier riders better.
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12-02-19, 10:21 AM
#38
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Square tapered can’t be taken apart for cleaning, but they look more sealed too. The square BB I’m replacing is 10-year old with about 12000km on it and has no contamination visible, even after breaking it apart.
The reason I’m replacing it is because it’s got some play and misalignment. As I’m still overweight, with 114kg (down from 157kg, all 43kg lost on this BB), I’d thought about upgrading to Hollowtech, if the durability factor worth it.
The reason I’m replacing it is because it’s got some play and misalignment. As I’m still overweight, with 114kg (down from 157kg, all 43kg lost on this BB), I’d thought about upgrading to Hollowtech, if the durability factor worth it.
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12-06-19, 12:20 PM
#39
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12-07-19, 11:33 AM
#40
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12-08-19, 07:07 PM
#42
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In fact, I’m already positive about migrating to Hollowtech II, not because it‘s better, but because there’s a huge lack of durable chainsets without it here in Brazil.
But thanks for the feedback! Good, civilized and rational discussions like this just adds to our knowledge. Keep it going!
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12-08-19, 09:23 PM
#43
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I tend to disagree. My weight put more load on the bike, which translates to more strain on the drivetrain, specially on up grades. That adds up to the problem, as I live in a city known for hills everywhere.
In fact, I’m already positive about migrating to Hollowtech II, not because it‘s better, but because there’s a huge lack of durable chainsets without it here in Brazil.
But thanks for the feedback! Good, civilized and rational discussions like this just adds to our knowledge. Keep it going!
In fact, I’m already positive about migrating to Hollowtech II, not because it‘s better, but because there’s a huge lack of durable chainsets without it here in Brazil.
But thanks for the feedback! Good, civilized and rational discussions like this just adds to our knowledge. Keep it going!
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12-09-19, 03:48 AM
#44
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For curiosity sake, my chain usually rub on the derailleur when I’m grinding hard the big chainring with the right leg down stroking, but it won’t rub at all on the shop’s bench or when I’m just “turning along” the pedals lightly. Heck, I can even see the frame flexing!
