JuiceWillis

Any drawbacks from using these wheels for racing? My stock wheels on my Langster pro are sluggish and heavy. Ive been swapping my wabi wheels back and forth from my lightning se and am considering just ordering another pair so that I don't have to keep doing this. I am 6'2 195lbs and the wheels have stayed true. Am I just being cheap? I also have ellipses but i hate having to use 2 tools just to swap wheels between races and they are heavy.

JuiceWillis

Agreed about the weight factor. I'm more just done with the ellipses because they are a pain in the ass to do gear changes with since you have to hold the axle in place with an Allen key while you loosen the track nuts, that and their proprietary lockring make my drawer full of lockrings useless.

carleton

edit:

1) Use the Ellipse on the track.
2) Don't overthink this.

seau grateau

According to original post he already has Ellipses... If it were me, I'd use them, but hey.

carleton

Jesus I can't read this week.

I'm exhausted.

JuiceWillis

I have been using the ellipses they are just a pain in the ass for quick gear changes (I am also lazy as hell)

Anyone who has ellipses please chime in: when re-installing the rear wheel, I put the 5mm Allen key in to prevent the axle from moving, tighten down the Drive side, then the non drive side. Problem is the drive side axle nut will then spin sometimes. It's like you need 3 hands just to get the wheel aligned. I know the older versions of ellipses didn't have this problem. I'm just worried about cracking the axle everytime I'm switching the wheel around. Anyone have any hacks or suggestions?

gycho77

You can use the chain tensioner.
Some frames come with chain tensioner like Dixie Flyer.
Or you can purchase the tensioner under 20 dollar

carleton

Do you have the plastic tool that came with the wheels?



Also, maybe finger-tighten both sides before using the wrench?

JuiceWillis

Unfortunately I can't find that tool so ill have to order it. I'll try just finger tightening first and then using the wrench. I know I'm being a big baby about this I just wish it was as easy as my other wheelsets.

carleton

No. That's a known issue with these wheels. Basically, you have to have a new wheel tightening routine that you'd use with other track hubs.

I think it's the grip nuts that don't work well or something. For those who aren't familiar, with Ellipse as they age, simply tightening the right side then the left sometimes causes the axle to spin which affects the cone nuts that touch the bearings which sometimes loosens them. So, then there is lateral play in the wheel or friction.

JuiceWillis

Yeah its really annoying, I already cracked the axle once (luckily a friend of mine had a replacement.) I guess its a really durable wheelset, but I don't understand why they just don't build them like other track wheels. I'm thinking of just selling them but I was unsure of what stock set to buy, which is why I was asking about the Wabis. I have the standard wabi wheelset and they seem to be pretty much bombproof, just wasn't sure about racing on them too often. I did use them in 2 races this season and they seemed fine, even on standing starts. I know they aren't really "aero" and don't have bladed spokes, but the price (250 for the standard, 295 for the sub-15s) seems right.

carleton

I know it's not pretty, but how about:

Street bike:
Front: Wabi
Rear: Ellipse (set it once and no need to change until you flat)

Race bike:
Front: Ellipse (faster)
Rear: Wabi (no fuss)

JuiceWillis

Now you're talking!

seau grateau

I wonder how the Sub-15's would fare as far as stiffness and durability for track riding. They're low flange and low spoke count, if I recall correctly, which doesn't seem ideal. If you want something that doesn't have the annoying quirks of the Ellipses, maybe something like 32h Formula hubs to Velocity or H+Son rims would fit the bill.

gycho77

As I said before buying a chain tensioner will fix all your problems and it only costs you 30buck. Cheaper than any other wheel.
And you could keep your one of the best track wheelset on your race bike.
Why you are not interested in a chain tensioner?
Some of products allow you to adjust the location of the rear wheel with your two fingers which takes 5seconds


Here are some examples.
https://www.jensonusa.com/Surly-Tuggn...4aAq1nEALw_wcB
https://www.jensonusa.com/MKS-Track-C...gaAgA5EALw_wcB

Franklin27

Give this guy the ten thousand dollars!

brawlo

I say ditch the Mavics altogether, maybe even both wheelsets, and put the money into a nice strong no fuss double fixed wheelset and then put the leftover cash aside for savings for a proper nice race wheelset (which can be fairly cheap too)

Not helpful, but musing, I seriously don't know why or how people persist with the Ellipse wheels. Just because they have a Mavic sticker on them doesn't make them great. The amount of internet text devoted to how finnicky they can be says to me to stay clear. I've known first hand 3 people that have had them and none of those people had them for more than 6 months due to how they are to live with.

carleton

They are actually pretty fast for training wheels.

JuiceWillis

I sold them today, getting some HED Belgiums laced to Dura Ace, wabi wheelset for Street.

brawlo

They're also pretty expensive for training wheels. Unless you're a junior and need the alloy rim and every bit of aero advantage you can get, then why bother. You can get a pretty decent set of training wheels for half the price. Sealed bearings are actually very nice and smooth, and if you luck out with your hub bearings, they're really cheap to replace with high quality non ceramic ones.

There are many other options out there for the same money or less that provide similar or better performance if junior requirements are your thing. If not, deep dish carbon wheelsets from reputable Chinese manufacturers are about the same money. They can be had for even cheaper if you're not too worried about the origin of them.

carleton

I agree.

Baby Puke

Also a fan of chain tensioners, for the record...

JuiceWillis

I ended up selling the Mavics (350 bucks) which is what I paid for them. I’m going to use the wabi standard wheels I have for training/Street, and my shop is building up the HED Belgiums laced to Dura Ace for me. I was going to go the chain tensioner route but was able to sell the wheels quickly.