Before I slather this stuff all over another bike...
02-19-19, 10:04 PM
#1
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Before I slather this stuff all over another bike...
A few years ago I bought a tub of grease at the hardware store...
I've been using this grease for any bike work I've done, on my own bikes and on some flips. Lubing bolts, screws, wheel bearings, headset bearings, stem quills, seat posts, brake cables, you get the picture.
It's called LubriMatic High Temperature Disc/Drum Brake Wheel Bearing Grease. Base type: Polyurea
Should I keep on keepin' on with this stuff or what? I'm leaning towards "It's fine".
I've been using this grease for any bike work I've done, on my own bikes and on some flips. Lubing bolts, screws, wheel bearings, headset bearings, stem quills, seat posts, brake cables, you get the picture.
It's called LubriMatic High Temperature Disc/Drum Brake Wheel Bearing Grease. Base type: Polyurea
Should I keep on keepin' on with this stuff or what? I'm leaning towards "It's fine".
02-19-19, 10:12 PM
#2
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A few years ago I bought a tub of grease at the hardware store...
I've been using this grease for any bike work I've done, on my own bikes and on some flips. Lubing bolts, screws, wheel bearings, headset bearings, stem quills, seat posts, brake cables, you get the picture.
It's called LubriMatic High Temperature Disc/Drum Brake Wheel Bearing Grease. Base type: Polyurea
Should I keep on keepin' on with this stuff or what? I'm leaning towards "It's fine".
I've been using this grease for any bike work I've done, on my own bikes and on some flips. Lubing bolts, screws, wheel bearings, headset bearings, stem quills, seat posts, brake cables, you get the picture.
It's called LubriMatic High Temperature Disc/Drum Brake Wheel Bearing Grease. Base type: Polyurea
Should I keep on keepin' on with this stuff or what? I'm leaning towards "It's fine".
02-19-19, 10:16 PM
#3
Banned
probably excessive but bikes don't get hub bearings hot like cars may..
I use grease for boat trailer hubs for its water Resistance excess.
I use grease for boat trailer hubs for its water Resistance excess.
02-19-19, 10:17 PM
#4
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Bicycles are a very low demand application so almost any grease is useable and most are more than satisfactory. The type you are using is just fine. As above, has it done anything bad in the years you've been using it? I thought not.
02-19-19, 10:25 PM
#5
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Yeah that's what I figured as well. I feel like I've read articles about maintenance that say to use a BICYCLE OIL/GREASE AND NOTHING ELSE!!! But maybe it was more about the chain lubrication and warning against using WD40 or something. That would make sense.
02-20-19, 02:57 AM
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I was just thinking about grease today.
Was tidying up the garage and tossing away stuff...and saw this tube of engine assembly grease. I bet it would make good because it is lower viscosity. The typical car wheel bearing grease feels too thick for optium performance on low temp application. marine greases is even thicker. Lighter grease seems like good idea.
I was going to toss it in the trash...but wat y'all think? Can I use engine assembly grease on the wheel bearing of bicycles?
Was tidying up the garage and tossing away stuff...and saw this tube of engine assembly grease. I bet it would make good because it is lower viscosity. The typical car wheel bearing grease feels too thick for optium performance on low temp application. marine greases is even thicker. Lighter grease seems like good idea.
I was going to toss it in the trash...but wat y'all think? Can I use engine assembly grease on the wheel bearing of bicycles?
02-20-19, 07:35 AM
#7
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Automotive disc/drum grease is a kinda heavy for bicycles, might make you work a bit harder on the flats, but really is just fine. However, after you finish the tub in like year 2054, i would switch to basic lithium grease if you don't want to buy a tube of Phil (or other esoteric brand) of grease.
02-20-19, 07:52 AM
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I've always splurged (wasted money?) and used Phil's grease on my bikes. However, I buy it in 640 gm (22.5 oz) tubs so the cost per ounce is much lower than buying it in 3 oz tubes. I use a Dualco refillable mini-grease gun to dispense it and to keep the grease in the big container clean.
It does work well and I have hubs with well over 50,000 miles on them still using the original cones. Is it necessary to use "bicycle specific" grease? Of course not but it does work.
It does work well and I have hubs with well over 50,000 miles on them still using the original cones. Is it necessary to use "bicycle specific" grease? Of course not but it does work.
02-20-19, 08:00 AM
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sounds like it would be good on truck leaf springs
02-20-19, 11:28 AM
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Yeah...we use so little grease...why not buy the good stuff made specificially for bicycle. Why risk it if axle grease...brake grease, white grease...boat grease...whatever.
If you do the math the cost of "expensive" Phil's grease is like probably 0.001% of the overall cost of bicycling in a cyclist's life time.
It's no brainer to me to buy the good bicycle grease.
But I just happen to have a tube of axle grease sitting around unused from my trailer-hauling days...so I didn't want to waste it...so I just use it...I might have to buy new grease soon though...I am afraid I might have contaminated the tube last time. So...I think I need to use tubes next time...less likely to premature contamination. And definitely a bicycle specific grease.
If you do the math the cost of "expensive" Phil's grease is like probably 0.001% of the overall cost of bicycling in a cyclist's life time.
It's no brainer to me to buy the good bicycle grease.
But I just happen to have a tube of axle grease sitting around unused from my trailer-hauling days...so I didn't want to waste it...so I just use it...I might have to buy new grease soon though...I am afraid I might have contaminated the tube last time. So...I think I need to use tubes next time...less likely to premature contamination. And definitely a bicycle specific grease.
02-20-19, 12:27 PM
#11
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Grease is oil with a thickening agent called a soap. The soaps may be based on most light metals such as lithium, aluminum, sodium, and calcium. The most "fibrous" of these is aluminum based grease, which is good for sliding applications. It is very water resistant but should never be used in rolling element bearings. The most common and versatile are greases based on lithium soaps. They feature excellent resistance to moisture and flowability for rolling element bearings. They handle heat well and resist thickening with age.
The best greases for most purposes are lithium based and contain molybenum disulphide. Molybdenum disulphide has the property of adhering to ferrous metals the extent that it requires machining to remove it. It continues to provide lubricity afte the grease is gone, as in washed away by solvent for a sort time.
Grease should be specified by NLGI grade, with or without the Moly additive.
The best greases for most purposes are lithium based and contain molybenum disulphide. Molybdenum disulphide has the property of adhering to ferrous metals the extent that it requires machining to remove it. It continues to provide lubricity afte the grease is gone, as in washed away by solvent for a sort time.
Grease should be specified by NLGI grade, with or without the Moly additive.
02-20-19, 12:39 PM
#12
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Some people would put oil in their hub and bottom brackets bearings to save a watt or two on race day, so I don't see the problem with trying a thinner grease. You'll probably just have to replace it sooner.
Also, some hub manufactures -- Chris King, DT Swiss, others -- specify a certain type of grease for their ratchets or ring drive systems.
As far as I can tell, Phil or Park greases are just common greases with a little rust inhibitor, but arguments that some lubricants perform a given task better than others seem valid, not totally marketing BS. Some grease hardens over time, etc. S & S Couplings did a test for thread galling, and endorsed a teflon based grease based on a specific test where they basically pinched a nut and ran a bolt through it again and again until it broke.
Also, some hub manufactures -- Chris King, DT Swiss, others -- specify a certain type of grease for their ratchets or ring drive systems.
As far as I can tell, Phil or Park greases are just common greases with a little rust inhibitor, but arguments that some lubricants perform a given task better than others seem valid, not totally marketing BS. Some grease hardens over time, etc. S & S Couplings did a test for thread galling, and endorsed a teflon based grease based on a specific test where they basically pinched a nut and ran a bolt through it again and again until it broke.
02-20-19, 12:46 PM
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Black/white thinking gets further from the truth -- bonus: it costs more than truth.
02-20-19, 02:22 PM
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It probably isn't going to hurt anything but keep in mind that certain jobs and parts require specific lubricants. For example, bottom brackets often specify anti-seize rather than grease.
Sticking to what the parts manufacturer recommends is typically a safe bet.
-Tim-
Sticking to what the parts manufacturer recommends is typically a safe bet.
-Tim-
02-20-19, 05:56 PM
#15
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I bought a tube of Phil grease about 30 years ago and I'm still using it. I obviously don't use much.
02-20-19, 11:18 PM
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Low viscosity
Automotive disc/drum grease is a kinda heavy for bicycles, might make you work a bit harder on the flats, but really is just fine. However, after you finish the tub in like year 2054, i would switch to basic lithium grease if you don't want to buy a tube of Phil (or other esoteric brand) of grease.
02-21-19, 09:03 AM
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Here's an excellent (and long) explanation of greases by forum member Slaninar. https://bike.bikegremlin.com/1985/bi...ase-explained/
02-21-19, 07:16 PM
#18
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]Man, if the viscosity of the grease affects your speed you got one finely tuned pair of legs my friend.😁
Ha, nothing I would feel, but on the other hand I need every bit of power I can get, laughing hard.
Ha, nothing I would feel, but on the other hand I need every bit of power I can get, laughing hard.
02-22-19, 07:31 AM
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The main downside IMO is the potential incompatibility of the polyurea base with other greases (which are mostly not urea based). I learned this lesson the hard way after trying out Park Tools grease, which has the same base.
02-26-19, 10:12 AM
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At the Bike Exchange we use tubs of lithium grease for all our donation bikes . Have been doing it for 25 years.
Personally, I buy lithium grease in a squeeze tube. It prevents contamination and makes squirting grease into wheel bearing cups, head set and bottom bracket cups a snap. I have been rehabbing a lot of bikes lately and go through a tube maybe every 4-5 months. No big deal.
Also the tube fits in the top shelf of my 3 drawer tool box that I like to bring with me to the Exchange when I work there. Nice to have everything close at hand so I don't have to go over to the tool cart every time I need something.
Personally, I buy lithium grease in a squeeze tube. It prevents contamination and makes squirting grease into wheel bearing cups, head set and bottom bracket cups a snap. I have been rehabbing a lot of bikes lately and go through a tube maybe every 4-5 months. No big deal.
Also the tube fits in the top shelf of my 3 drawer tool box that I like to bring with me to the Exchange when I work there. Nice to have everything close at hand so I don't have to go over to the tool cart every time I need something.
02-26-19, 11:29 AM
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Replacing the grease every year or two is more important than the choice of grease. The grease dries up or cakes up or gets dirty. You can have two different failure modes of the same grease in different years which leads me to believe the choice of grease matters less than the luck of the terrain you ride in. There is no predicting how your grease will fail. I say keep using whatever you've been using. Then again, if you want to buy the expensive stuff, that's fine, too, because, as someone pointed out, that ends up not being expensive in real use.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
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