Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Hybrid Bicycles
Reload this Page >

Neko drop bar/ridged fork conversion

Search
Notices
Hybrid Bicycles Where else would you go to discuss these fun, versatile bikes?

Neko drop bar/ridged fork conversion

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-27-18, 04:31 PM
  #1  
Brooke1687
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 199
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 42 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times in 3 Posts
Neko drop bar/ridged fork conversion

I’ve been shopping new bikes. I’ve only had my Neko for a year but it’s just not right for me anymore. I’ve been shopping gravel, most of the lower price point ones have mechanical disk brakes and I can’t stand the feel of them compared to my Neko’s hydraulic. It has occurred to me I may be spending a bundle of money simply to get drop bars and a rigid suspension fork when I like almost everything else about the bike.

What do you think? Is it worth converting over buying. I know the frame geometry is different but I also know some of you have converted your dual sport to drop bars. The two bikes I’m looking at now are the Checkpoint 4 and the Giant GX1. Even selling my Neko I’m looking at $1000 or more. I’m not very mechanically inclined with the bike, although I’m trying to learn. I’m willing go the YouTube route but I’d probably be paying someone to do a lot of the work.

What components would you recommend? What kind of fork should I look for? Could I do the fork first and the drops later if I wanted to break it out? Any other information you’d care to give me would be appreciated.
Brooke1687 is offline  
Old 07-27-18, 05:08 PM
  #2  
hokiefyd 
Senior Member
 
hokiefyd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Northern Shenandoah Valley
Posts: 4,138

Bikes: More bikes than riders

Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1443 Post(s)
Liked 759 Times in 568 Posts
I think your hydraulic drop bar options are more limited. There certainly do exist hydraulic drop bar brifters (brake/shifters), but yes, they will be very spendy. I think mechanical disc brakes are often favored with "gravel" or "adventure" bikes because of their perceived reliability. You can replace a cable out in the field a lot easier than fixing a hydraulic line issue. I don't have enough long distance touring experience to know whether this should be a significant point, but I do join you in really enjoying hydraulic brakes. I'm shopping MTBs, and I will convert anything I buy to hydraulic if it isn't already (I'm not going whole hog on this thing, just stepping into it, so I'm often finding cable discs). I'm sure premium cable discs work and feel better than cheap ones, but I don't think either really compare to hydraulic in terms of feel and power and modulation.
hokiefyd is offline  
Old 07-27-18, 05:15 PM
  #3  
Brooke1687
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 199
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 42 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times in 3 Posts
Originally Posted by hokiefyd
I think your hydraulic drop bar options are more limited. There certainly do exist hydraulic drop bar brifters (brake/shifters), but yes, they will be very spendy. I think mechanical disc brakes are often favored with "gravel" or "adventure" bikes because of their perceived reliability. You can replace a cable out in the field a lot easier than fixing a hydraulic line issue. I don't have enough long distance touring experience to know whether this should be a significant point, but I do join you in really enjoying hydraulic brakes. I'm shopping MTBs, and I will convert anything I buy to hydraulic if it isn't already (I'm not going whole hog on this thing, just stepping into it, so I'm often finding cable discs). I'm sure premium cable discs work and feel better than cheap ones, but I don't think either really compare to hydraulic in terms of feel and power and modulation.
Oh interesting. I didn’t know the reasoning there but that makes sense. I even looked at a carbon option from Liv that had mechanical disk which surprised me. I rode a CrossRip 2 today and it was definitely more budget friendly but I just couldn’t stand the pull on the brakes.
Brooke1687 is offline  
Old 07-27-18, 08:17 PM
  #4  
csport
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: /dev/null
Posts: 675

Bikes: Soma Double Cross Disc (2017), red Hardrock FS (circa 1996)

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 217 Post(s)
Liked 155 Times in 102 Posts
Originally Posted by Brooke1687
It has occurred to me I may be spending a bundle of money simply to get drop bars and a rigid suspension fork when I like almost everything else about the bike.
Replacing the fork with a rigid one and converting to drops is quite significant change.

Originally Posted by Brooke1687
What do you think? Is it worth converting over buying. I know the frame geometry is different but I also know some of you have converted your dual sport to drop bars. The two bikes I’m looking at now are the Checkpoint 4 and the Giant GX1. Even selling my Neko I’m looking at $1000 or more. I’m not very mechanically inclined with the bike, although I’m trying to learn. I’m willing go the YouTube route but I’d probably be paying someone to do a lot of the work.
In this case not worth it. Buy a new one. If you did it to learn wrenching and transition to doing mechanical work yourself, then maybe. In that case you could transfer some parts to a new build at some point in the future.
You can find entry level gravel bikes for <1000$, but those will not be 10 speed nor will they have hydraulic brakes.

Originally Posted by Brooke1687
What components would you recommend? What kind of fork should I look for? Could I do the fork first and the drops later if I wanted to break it out? Any other information you’d care to give me would be appreciated.
Yes, you can change the fork first and convert to drop bars later. You should look for a "suspension corrected" fork which will have longer axle to crown measurement.
As hokiefyd said, hydraulic brifters are not cheap. AFAIK, Shimano makes them in 10 or 11 speed only. Your Neko probably is not 10 speed, and that means swapping the whole drivetrain: cassette, chain, FD, RD. You might be able to keep the crankset. Add labor cost to this...
csport is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
RelloRider
General Cycling Discussion
9
02-02-19 09:33 AM
JackBlack1
Cyclocross and Gravelbiking (Recreational)
39
10-05-18 05:16 AM
tjax
Mountain Biking
10
04-01-14 10:51 PM
talan8484
Commuting
36
02-18-14 01:45 PM
fmt_biker
Touring
10
11-04-11 11:51 AM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.