Chances of a Hollow Axle Conversion
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Chances of a Hollow Axle Conversion
https://cgi.ebay.com/Sansin-36-Hole-Rear-Hub-130mm-Spacing-solid-axle_W0QQitemZ170268355888QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item170268355888&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A5 70|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318
This hub, as you can see has a solid axle. Anyone think I can switch it over to a hollow axle for a QR? I have the same hub but with a rear spacing of 126 with 40 holes and I need 36 holes. Also doesn't this hub look like a 40? Anyone know anything about Sansin hubs? I asked the seller the same question and he/she responded with a simple, "no". I don't know what question he/she was answering so I am relaying it to yenz. Thanks in advance.
PS: My hub is date coded BF which puts it at about June 85 This one is CL which is Dec 86.
This hub, as you can see has a solid axle. Anyone think I can switch it over to a hollow axle for a QR? I have the same hub but with a rear spacing of 126 with 40 holes and I need 36 holes. Also doesn't this hub look like a 40? Anyone know anything about Sansin hubs? I asked the seller the same question and he/she responded with a simple, "no". I don't know what question he/she was answering so I am relaying it to yenz. Thanks in advance.
PS: My hub is date coded BF which puts it at about June 85 This one is CL which is Dec 86.
#2
Senior Member
Sure, just by a hollow axle with same threading along with a QR skewer and you're set. Most rear-axles are 10x1mm. Although some rear bolt-on axles are 3/8". Would be good to figure that out before buying.
#3
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Typically, you want a hollow axle 11MM longer than your drop out spacing.
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Two key issues:
The first one is threading. Make sure that your new axle is threaded the same as the cones on your hub. Most nutted axles have different threading than typical quick release axles.
The second is axle length. This isn't a big deal with a nutted hub but it has to be just right for a quick release. You want the axle to rest in your frame's dropouts but not project beyond the frame by even the tiniest amount.
The first one is threading. Make sure that your new axle is threaded the same as the cones on your hub. Most nutted axles have different threading than typical quick release axles.
The second is axle length. This isn't a big deal with a nutted hub but it has to be just right for a quick release. You want the axle to rest in your frame's dropouts but not project beyond the frame by even the tiniest amount.
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Why e-bay? 36H hubs in the correct OLD are commonly available with the correct axle already installed from many LBSs and on-line retailers. Why get into a conversion process and deal with a seller that is either clueless or misleading?
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First off, thanks for all the replys.
Second, I have the same hub as the one in the auction but it has a hollow axle and fits my frame with 126mm spacing. The problem I have with the hub that I own is it is a 40h. I mistakenly ordered all of my wheel parts based on the 36h design. I went to lace my new wheel and everything was a mess of cursing and counting and re counting then kicking myself in the ass etc. So I figured this would be a cheap fix. I wouldn't have to deal with re ordering spokes and selling the spokes that are not the right length. I was asking to see if there was a consensus that essentially the same hub but from a diffrent year would use the same axle diameter (I can transfer my "cones" as this is a sealed bearing hub"). As such, IF everything would work out, my only expense would be the cost of this hub.
Once again thanks for all the replys.
Second, I have the same hub as the one in the auction but it has a hollow axle and fits my frame with 126mm spacing. The problem I have with the hub that I own is it is a 40h. I mistakenly ordered all of my wheel parts based on the 36h design. I went to lace my new wheel and everything was a mess of cursing and counting and re counting then kicking myself in the ass etc. So I figured this would be a cheap fix. I wouldn't have to deal with re ordering spokes and selling the spokes that are not the right length. I was asking to see if there was a consensus that essentially the same hub but from a diffrent year would use the same axle diameter (I can transfer my "cones" as this is a sealed bearing hub"). As such, IF everything would work out, my only expense would be the cost of this hub.
Once again thanks for all the replys.
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Two key issues:
The first one is threading. Make sure that your new axle is threaded the same as the cones on your hub. Most nutted axles have different threading than typical quick release axles.
The second is axle length. This isn't a big deal with a nutted hub but it has to be just right for a quick release. You want the axle to rest in your frame's dropouts but not project beyond the frame by even the tiniest amount.
The first one is threading. Make sure that your new axle is threaded the same as the cones on your hub. Most nutted axles have different threading than typical quick release axles.
The second is axle length. This isn't a big deal with a nutted hub but it has to be just right for a quick release. You want the axle to rest in your frame's dropouts but not project beyond the frame by even the tiniest amount.
There's a potential glitch: Sansin sealed cartridge bearing hubs had machined areas where the bearings fit, similar to the Harris Formula axle:
Some Sansin "sealed" bearing hubs were standard cup-and-cone bearings with plastic dust caps. Naturally, the axles and bearings are not interchangable.
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#8
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Thanks for the help. I just ordered it. Ill let you know how it goes.
Thanks again!
Thanks again!
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Or you COULD lace your current 40H hub to a 36H rim, just leave two holes empty at half the circumference apart on each side. At that spoke count, low flange and assuming 3X you might even get away with it w/o buying any new spokes at all. At worst, 8 new spokes should do the trick.
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#10
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The Sansin hubs used 10 x 1mm threads on both the solid and threaded axles, so that should be a non-issue. That's according to Sheldon: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/axles.html
There's a potential glitch: Sansin sealed cartridge bearing hubs had machined areas where the bearings fit, similar to the Harris Formula axle:
Some Sansin "sealed" bearing hubs were standard cup-and-cone bearings with plastic dust caps. Naturally, the axles and bearings are not interchangable.
There's a potential glitch: Sansin sealed cartridge bearing hubs had machined areas where the bearings fit, similar to the Harris Formula axle:
Some Sansin "sealed" bearing hubs were standard cup-and-cone bearings with plastic dust caps. Naturally, the axles and bearings are not interchangable.
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Well I got the new 36h hub. Turns out it wasn't a sealed bearing hub. Just a cup and cone hub with beefed up seals. I said the hell with it and laced it up anyway. I did run into problems with a thread pitch diameter with the hollow axle and the solid. I ended up scabbing some identical cones from a Schwinn hub and using them on the new hub. Thanks for all the help!
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I think you have Sanshin/Sunshine/Specialized/Suntour confused with Suzue. Sanshin should be a conventional threaded axle, cartridge or not. The Sanshin/Sunshine/Specialized/Suntour 10mm axle has 'cones' with sleeves to take the space between the axle and the 12mm ID #6001 bearings. The Suzue/other taiwanese/Formula goes with #6000 bearings, which have a 10mm ID and bear directly on the machined portion of a dedicated axle. The Suzue I've seen in both 3/8" (9.5mm) solid and 10mm hollow, possibly 10mm solid as well.
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i'm also in the market to change the rear axle on my '84 Peugeot P18 from solid to quick-release / hollow. the local bike shop suggested it to be a $100 modification which is contingent upon me doing the labor. I just want to order the correct pieces.
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Try here: Bike Tools Etc. - 1000's of bicycle tools and parts for the home mechanic! and do a search for "hub axles". Or here: https://www.bikeparts.com/ and look under "hub parts".