IS getting a 2nd set of wheels easy? Or should I just be looking at a 2nd bike?
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IS getting a 2nd set of wheels easy? Or should I just be looking at a 2nd bike?
I have a Salsa Casseroll that fits me like a glove. I love it. Lately, I've been trying to hang with an 'a' group on it - and I do a remarkable job considering they are on carbon stuff.
Near the end of a 40 miler, I'm dead.
The stock rims are cross rims, and I have 28mm tires already - which is the minimum.
So I was thinking I'd get a pair of lighter rims like the alex ones on my son's felt 95. It occurred to me that I could put 23mm on these and probably lower my rolling resistance alot. However, I'm confused. Will it require a huge pain to set up the derailleur with each tire swap? I'd like to keep using the cross rims for touring and weekend slow rides (where I carry junk). It is a 9 speed if the helps. Would swapping the same cassette make this easy?
Near the end of a 40 miler, I'm dead.
The stock rims are cross rims, and I have 28mm tires already - which is the minimum.
So I was thinking I'd get a pair of lighter rims like the alex ones on my son's felt 95. It occurred to me that I could put 23mm on these and probably lower my rolling resistance alot. However, I'm confused. Will it require a huge pain to set up the derailleur with each tire swap? I'd like to keep using the cross rims for touring and weekend slow rides (where I carry junk). It is a 9 speed if the helps. Would swapping the same cassette make this easy?
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Constantly adjusting your brake setup, whether disc or cantilever, would be the proverbial fly in the ointment. If you like the group-ride scene, a dedicated road-racing bike is probably justified.
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[QUOTE=episodic;13537393It occurred to me that I could put 23mm on these and probably lower my rolling resistance alot.[/QUOTE]
I wouldn't bet the rent money. Actually, I wouldn't even bet the cost of a new wheelset.
I wouldn't bet the rent money. Actually, I wouldn't even bet the cost of a new wheelset.
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Having two wheel-sets works well, IF they are matching hubs & rims.
If the hubs don't match, you will need to adjust the rear derailleur every time you change wheels.
If the rims are more than 0.5 mm different in width, you will need to adjust the brakes.
I have two sets of Velocity A23 rims for my steel Cyclocross bike. With a 23mm wide rim, I can fit skinny road tires (Conti GP 24mm) or wider trekking tires (Schwalbe Marathon Cross 38mm).
If the hubs don't match, you will need to adjust the rear derailleur every time you change wheels.
If the rims are more than 0.5 mm different in width, you will need to adjust the brakes.
I have two sets of Velocity A23 rims for my steel Cyclocross bike. With a 23mm wide rim, I can fit skinny road tires (Conti GP 24mm) or wider trekking tires (Schwalbe Marathon Cross 38mm).
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Last edited by Barrettscv; 11-27-11 at 07:56 PM.
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You guys are right, I'll look for a used road bike for the spring. I guess I could get a lighter saddle (instead of a sprung brooks) and take off my racks for a while.
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#8
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get light narrow tires and tubes. ditch the sprung brooks (if you weren't joking) and take off the racks for crying out loud.
i don't think there's anything that frame is doing to make you unusually tired compared to other frames. then again maybe you have something else attached to it you aren't telling us about. like maybe a generator or a battery operated light system or three full water bottles or a hydration pack or you're wearing jeans or a baby carrier or great big block pedals rather than clip-ons or reflectors in front and back and on both wheels. we really don't know...
BTW, i took the trouble to look up the salsa frame and it looks like a welded steel frame with an unusual amount of head tube protruding above the top tube, but otherwise nothing that warrants an new bike. OTOH it's always fun to buy a bike.
i don't think there's anything that frame is doing to make you unusually tired compared to other frames. then again maybe you have something else attached to it you aren't telling us about. like maybe a generator or a battery operated light system or three full water bottles or a hydration pack or you're wearing jeans or a baby carrier or great big block pedals rather than clip-ons or reflectors in front and back and on both wheels. we really don't know...
BTW, i took the trouble to look up the salsa frame and it looks like a welded steel frame with an unusual amount of head tube protruding above the top tube, but otherwise nothing that warrants an new bike. OTOH it's always fun to buy a bike.
Last edited by hueyhoolihan; 11-27-11 at 02:41 PM.
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I have a Salsa Casseroll that fits me like a glove. I love it. Lately, I've been trying to hang with an 'a' group on it - and I do a remarkable job considering they are on carbon stuff.
Near the end of a 40 miler, I'm dead.
The stock rims are cross rims, and I have 28mm tires already - which is the minimum.
So I was thinking I'd get a pair of lighter rims like the alex ones on my son's felt 95. It occurred to me that I could put 23mm on these and probably lower my rolling resistance alot. However, I'm confused. Will it require a huge pain to set up the derailleur with each tire swap? I'd like to keep using the cross rims for touring and weekend slow rides (where I carry junk). It is a 9 speed if the helps. Would swapping the same cassette make this easy?
Near the end of a 40 miler, I'm dead.
The stock rims are cross rims, and I have 28mm tires already - which is the minimum.
So I was thinking I'd get a pair of lighter rims like the alex ones on my son's felt 95. It occurred to me that I could put 23mm on these and probably lower my rolling resistance alot. However, I'm confused. Will it require a huge pain to set up the derailleur with each tire swap? I'd like to keep using the cross rims for touring and weekend slow rides (where I carry junk). It is a 9 speed if the helps. Would swapping the same cassette make this easy?
If you were going from a 35psi 2.2 inch knobbie to 120psi 23mm 700C tires you would see big difference.
Your Salsa Casseroll already has drop bars, so you have the main advantage in speed of a road bike
already, the aero advantage of riding in the drops.
If you do a ton of climbing light weight might help, but on rolling terrain there is not that much advantage there either.
If I ride my road bike on the hoods, there isn't that much difference than riding my MTB with 1.75 inch slicks, at about 17-18mph.
But if I get in the drops there is a 2-3mph difference, but it isn't as comfy.
Last edited by gbg; 11-27-11 at 02:53 PM.
#12
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95% of the speed on the bike comes from the engine. Work on that and don't worry about the components.
When you are calculating the weight of the bike don't forget to add in the engine and other necessary stuff you carry on the bike.
When you are calculating the weight of the bike don't forget to add in the engine and other necessary stuff you carry on the bike.
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Worth noting, there's a pretty wide spread of tires in 700 x 28, ranging from lightweight performance training/raceable tires (e.g. Continental Gatorskin and Grand Prix 4-Season folding models) to very beefed-up city/urban tires at more than twice the weight. If your existing tires are heavy, start with some light ones, along with lightweight tubes.
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As mechBgon says, make sure you have light performance oriented 28c tires. 'Flat resistant' tires can slow you down, but less than a flat tire would.
THe fastest 'wide' tire I have ever had was a Panaracer Pesela (no TourGuard flat protection) but that was a long time ago and I may be looking at the past with rose coloured glasses.
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